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  1. Spring of 1993 and I'd only had my '91 VFR for a couple months when I snapped this photo by Salish Bear totem atop Malahat Drive. Compared to many of the mountain passes I've crossed by VFR this is one of the lowest, but it is close by and offers a good view of Finlayson Arm - and, on a much clearer day, even the Olympic Range in Washington state to the south. Eagle-eyed viewers will notice the Bubba Shobert-replica Bell helmet. It looked cool, but my next helmet, a Shoei X7, was a huge improvement.
    11 points
  2. One last thing. I met Freddie Spencer in person at a motorcycle show before Covid. We had a great convo and he luved the fact i was riding a RWB VFR 800 25th. I told him I always pretended I was him when I attack the corners. We had a great laugh. When asked what do you ride on the street back home? He replied with a grin and a smile: RWB 25th like you. and thats how he signed his book (Freddie Spencer: FEEL) for me; Hey John, keep enjoying your VFR I have one too. Freddie Spencer. F'N Priceless.
    6 points
  3. As a 19 year old in 1992 I fell in love with a new VFR in the dealership showroom. The dream was to buy one and ride across Canada. Not a care in the world! (No money either so it didn’t happen) 30 years later I finally bought my VFR. Super low kilometer 2006. 100% stock. It’s going to stay that way with the exception of a tidy tail. I’ll be looking for a set of pannier mounts as well. C’mon spring!!!
    6 points
  4. Arguably one of the best motorcycles ever made. I never thought an 11.3 sec quarter mile time was slow or 0-100 mph in 7.5 sec. (Cycle World Test) The engine is so refined and the quality of assembly is so above most bikes. Just riding it slow makes me Grin. Engine noise and smoothness and qaulity of controls and paint. Its not the lightest bike but I ride with Ducati V4s and V2 and Aprilia Tuonos and my buddies bikes are always having problems or waiting for parts. In the twisties on the street I'm there with them and if they want to lose me they are going to crash. LOL Its so stable at 140 mph. VTEC noise transition. Good luck, my VFR is my sportbike that I can ride for 4 hrs. And the looks , nuf said.
    5 points
  5. If the wax unit is not receiving coolant then it will keep the starter valves open more than you want when the rest of the engine is hot and give the excessive idle. Either an air lock or possibly the "cleaning" process has moved some crud in the small water hose and caused a blockage. My view is that a blockage is the most likely cause of a "wax unit failure" rather than any mechanical fault with the unit itself.
    4 points
  6. Assuming you had No fast idle issue Prior to your coolant flush, then it sounds to me like an air lock situation, adding to poor coolant circulation to the wax unit. Running the bike to high temps without the radiatior cap on will cause the volcanic eruption you had and especially if there is air trapped. Did you follow the fill and burping process in the Service Manual?
    4 points
  7. This was the "what have I done" moment, after the VTEC was lowered from the frame with the 8,000 mile 5th gen motor waiting on the pallet. The cam cover is removed b/c I had already been in there adjusting the VTEC valves and it also gave me the extra clearance needed to clear the frame once lowered on the jack. Once it was back together and running, going for its first short ride around the block left me barely believing it was actually working. I read where others that have done this sit the engine down on block(s) and then lift the frame off and roll it away like a wheel barrow, leaving the engine behind. On top of the 2 step ladders is a thick wooden beam and ratchet straps. Either way works, this is just mine. Clearly this is quite invasive surgery, but very doable for any determined DIYer. Like any project, bag & tag fasteners, label, stay organized and torque to spec and you'll be good.
    4 points
  8. A bit more completed today. The Engine is now fully built and timed up. Just waiting on fitting the oil cooler to spin it over on the starter motor with no spark plugs in to check oil pressure. Rear sub frame has been loosely mounted along with the rest of the exhaust. Big shout out to Gave Silver Spares who accepted an order for the gearchange detent spring an item they did not have in stock and listed as "No Longer Available" that the sourced and got to me in two weeks for £5.00 including postage. This was a show stopper as the old spring was so week that it was failing to push the paws home and so not changing gear smoothly. A Few more pictures of progress
    3 points
  9. Not sure that gives me a tonne of insight. Pretty sure John McGuinness could smoke me on a Grom!!!
    3 points
  10. If you're interested in how one will do on the track, have a look at this video of John McGuinness riding a 5th gen at a track day. This one has 100,000 miles and a luggage rack. Note that he's passing many sportier, more powerful (probably liter) bikes. They likely pull away from him down the straights, but in the corners he makes it all back and more. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMWXwsGUGM8
    3 points
  11. Lots of rain recently but a nice day today before it all returns tomorrow. Did a thorough chain cleaning, adjustment and lube Tuesday so felt like everything was ready and prepped for a 10 day trip! However, this was not a 10 day trip, just 60 miles. I may complain about the rain but spring after an El Nino winter is beautiful here. Sorry it's not a VFR, but...red...V cylinders...motorcycle Squint and you can see the Pacific ocean...
    3 points
  12. Beartooth Pass in Wyoming is better known, but nearby Chief Joseph Scenic Byway is no slouch. Definitely scenic, but also terrific fun on motorcycle, with smooth pavement and open sweepers. But if you are in the neighbourhood, along with Yellowstone National Park and Beartooth Pass, CJSB is worth a visit. Btw, this pic is from the homeward leg of my June 2015 Colorado trip.
    2 points
  13. Thank you all so much for your help. I was able to finally ride one this weekend, unfortunately it was quite a drive to get there. It is a very nicely made bike. It has good fit and finish, looks very sophisticated, has a really smooth engine, and appears to be full-Honda quality. Sadly, I don't think it is the right bike for me. The seating position didn't seem to suit me; I felt like I was sitting in the bike and not really on it, and the bars were too high for me. I felt like I was leaning back a bit, but not enough to stand up on the pegs... just seemed like an unsual position to me (mind you, I've only really ever ridden road race and MX bikes). It also seemed hard to get it to initially turn into a corner and there did not seem to be a lot of feel through the front end. It didn't feel like I could get enough weight onto the front tire with the upright riding position. I am sure I could get used to it, but it feels strange to me. Everyone keeps telling me that at my age (46) I should get a touring bike, but they just don't seem right for me. I think I am going to get something a bit sportier. I honestly find the riding position on something like a CBR to be more comfortable, it just seems like I can load the front tire more and turn in easier. I also get that everyone thinks I am nuts. Thanks again guys.
    2 points
  14. "Dances with tires" 🙂 VID-20230515-WA0021.mp4
    2 points
  15. Agreed, so it might be that the ECU you are using isn't the original one (but one from later years that expects oxygen sensors)... or oxygen sensor were applied in the police version 😉
    2 points
  16. Hey looking great! Dude, those K&N filters with the welded nut on the end have a history of metal fatigue at the spot weld and cracking, then leaking. There's plenty of info on the net about it, and I am sure some members here have experienced it first hand. Plz consider an alternate.
    2 points
  17. No Sir! Not when you look at the wiring diagram. The four wires become a normal two wire configuration beyond the 4P connector. The single 12v wire then goes to the battery, protected by the one fuse, Main Fuse B 30amp.
    2 points
  18. Knee down, toe about to drag, and the peg feeler still has a way to go before it touches. This one still has more in it re corning before it's at the limit. These bikes (as most modern motorcycles) are more capable than most of their riders (including me!).
    2 points
  19. Lot's of people feel the same way. This is another forum member. The things the newer bikes are going to have though are the adjustable power modes, TC, WC, ABS, electronic cruise, etc. You don't sound like that is what you're after but may be a consideration.
    2 points
  20. You swapped a 1998 5gen ECU with a 2003 6gen ECU!!!! NOT possible! Different connectors, different wiring, different sensors etc !!!! What checks did you do to "realize a problem with the ECU Unit"??? OR.... Are you saying you swapped the FCR (fuel cut relay) with the one from your 2003? Do you have the Service Manual or a wiring diagram to work with? With the Sidestand down, Ignition to On, what is the Fi code being flashed by the Fi light??
    2 points
  21. Long term Honda lover! Had a 30 new in 89 and forever regretted selling it! Managed to pick another up just before covid struck and have finally got her on the road (with two disks) 👍 1988 14,000 miles and had its first MOT last week (Ornament before). Great to be back on one, although at 61 don't think I'll be doing what I did on the first one, Northampton to Bol d'Or in a day. 968 miles and it nearly killed me 😜 Andy M
    2 points
  22. How about you take your studies and fuck off
    1 point
  23. I'm glad you got a chance to test ride the bike, even if you found it wasn't the bike for you. For me, my 6th gen. VFR was the perfect all-arounder for many years, right up until I was about 50, and my knees and neck starting hurting during long rides. I could have installed a footpeg lowering kit and bar risers, but I didn't really want to change the bike from stock, and after 14 years with it I was really ready for something else. Also, there's no reason older folks can't still ride supersports. If your body can handle the ergonomics, go for it! I have a couple bikes in mind if I were to add a sportbike to my garage, but for better or worse my bank account limits me to one bike at a time. Good luck with your continued search for your next motorcycle! 👍
    1 point
  24. Triumph T595 Handle bars. They mount under the top yoke but then rise above so will sit about 50mm lower than the Honda Bars. You can get a riser kit for the triumph bars that would get them very close to the Honda Height
    1 point
  25. Update: There's good news! I was able to fix the problem and the motorcycle is running great now. It turned out there was a small cut in the pipe connected to the fuel pump inside the fuel tank. I replaced the pipe, and that seems to have resolved the issue (although the FI light might still be on for now). I appreciate all the help from everyone!
    1 point
  26. Again, No Sir........ The schematic doesn't mislead! The R/R output definetly ends up with ONE 12v line and ONE Ground line. The two R/R outputs are not set up as one to feed the battery and another to feed electrical services! Power distribution all begins with Main Fuse A 30amp and Main Fuse B 30amp, both effectively supplied by battery and the single R/R output. Perhaps in other bikes the dual output wires Might be configured as you say, I'm only familiar with the VFR. The 4P plug arrangement is basically the same for both 5th and 6gen ( appart from the additional voltage sense wire for the 6gen using a 6P plug). The 4P plug is the easy point of disconnecting the R/R from the main wire harness. Having the two grounds and two power wires makes for a better load share throught the spade connectors and makes use of a standard plug with same size spade connections. The main problem with the 4P connector (and the 3phase AC input connector) over time is due to moisture ingress, corrosion and ulitmately high resistance joints, hard wiring can be the best alternative once a good non oem R/R is fitted.
    1 point
  27. Me too but it does highlight just how good even an ageing VFR can be.
    1 point
  28. Also at 4mph, something I really appreciate in slow traffic. There's no sense of needing to get a foot ready to put down until you properly stop.
    1 point
  29. I know exactly what you're talking about. That epoxy job was a "oh shit, I need this done right now for tomorrow" job, always meant to be revisited and correctly redone. The epoxy was the right stuff, just no reinforcement plan in the moment. Was just trying to keep the pieces from literally falling apart. The fact that it lasted this long is pretty remarkable. That plastic and that epoxy are perfect mates. I think that "fabric" is a good application for those areas. I was even planning on making some plastic "donuts" to go around the mounts on the back side for additional strength.
    1 point
  30. I use to love packing her up every year for, at least, 1 week camping trip and several weekend excersions ; loved the bikes torque in the mountains, and the sound the little bitch made accelerating under a load. I had one of the first "general public" Kerker White Tip exhaust (I rememberer calling those guys once or twice for status reports; you racers took priority) Of course I had a cruise control on the bike...that was fun shit! When bike to bike communications came out; that was a game changer for my friend Ace and I. This Yosh. tail piece was off one of Ace's bikes when I finely retired the Kerker can Old dude rambling...
    1 point
  31. I typically put my fan switches on the left so I can "work the controls" in flight. But it's not like I'm constantly on / off either. And I usually reach down sitting at a light anyway. Looks good!
    1 point
  32. A constant on FI light can mean things other than a faulty ECU..... check service manual for the list....... being it sat a year, I'd be checking all connections first.
    1 point
  33. You really need to put the original ECU back in. To read codes, find the two-way connector on left side under the seat, near the rear, and jumper it, or find a mating connector and put a switch in your jumper so you can conveniently use it when you need to. Follow the service manual procedure to read the codes, correct the issue and clear them. Again, with the original ECU. As for your initial problem of no fuel pump running, time to check all the connections of regulator/stator, clean them up, and especially at the starter relay. Check all fuses are good... what do you see first with ignition on and bike in neutral?
    1 point
  34. Welcome Afeef! Can you post a photo of the ECU unit you swapped over. Also as Grum asks - With the Sidestand down, Ignition to On, what is the Fi code being flashed by the Fi light. It's the number of flashes in the sequence
    1 point
  35. That is definitely heat stressed, the Red wire has turned brown and the red plug has melted, a hot and high resistance joint. Think you've found the fault! The Red wire will need cutting back to good unheated copper and new spade connector fitted. Its not essential to replace the relay coil spade connectors but if you can, then just do it. Replace the red plug with these high quality tin spade connectors, sorry can't remember the web site, just do a Google on Starter Relay Plug replacements should find them. Make sure the Red Wire male spade in the Relay isn't burnt or corroded. You could also try the wiring mod shown using the additional spare spade connector to the Main Fuse to share the electrical load, splicing an additional wire into the main Red wire. Some OxGard on these conections will also help. The coloured drawing is just a section from the 5gen Hi Res downloadable drawing from the forum. Starting circuit and wiring is the same as 6gen.
    1 point
  36. No Clock power and resetting is a definite sign of Main Fuse A 30amp power loss, located in the Starter Relay, it will also kill power to the Engine Stop Relay coil = Dead Engine, and power for the Starter Relay coil = No Starter Cranking. Further info - Loss of Clock backup power and it resetting also confirms that the fault can't be an Ignition Switch problem, as backup power is Not switched through the Ignition Switch. Check the Red plug at the Starter Relay. Check for any sign of heat stressed wires and burnt spade connections for the Red wire. Check the fuse and its legs for any signs of heat stress or poor/loose connections. Even though you have replaced the battery it still could be an issue. What does the battery voltage drop to as you attempt to start the engine? Is your replacement battery a good quality item or Chinese cheapy? I've heard of a couple of new battery scenarios that were down on capacity straight out of the box, and not able to hold a charge, it may have been sitting on the store shelf for too long! Let's know how you get on, good luck.
    1 point
  37. It is surprisingly easy. All the mounting points line right up. There are 2 things that you would have to deal with, there's a sensor on the 6 Gen that's in the center of the 'V' that you need to retain on the 6 Gen wiring harness and dealing with the Coil-On-Plugs. The latter, you can get adapter mounts from fellow VFRD member Sebspeed. These allow you to bolt the COPs onto the 5 Gen engine. However, this does require removing the PAIR valve system, so you can use the mounts where the PAIR valve covers would bolt to the motor. PAIR block off plates would be needed for that task. As for the sensor, the wires are long enough for you to bolt the sensor to the side of the frame, so even that isn't really a big issue. No need to change the ECU either.
    1 point
  38. I've wanted to know, like forever, how a 6th gen would run if the VTEC was forced on. The manual is vague on the specifics but it seems that the ECM only cares about engine rpm and coolant temp to open or close a spool valve. But I am just daydreaming...
    1 point
  39. Now hold on there, sonny. Us olds love to poke through all the gory details 😉
    1 point
  40. I've been spending the winter scanning some of my old slides & negatives and this week I came across these two photos. First pic shows my 2nd VFR800 barely an hour after taking delivery back in Feb. 1999. It replaced my stolen red '98 and this time I opted for superfast yellow instead of yet another red bike. I'd had it fitted with a 3rd gen 8-spoke and both wheels painted a glossy pearl white. Beacon Hill park, in Victoria, is my goto spot for new bike pics. The 2nd pic shows my '91 VFR750 on it's final long ride, near Courthouse Towers in Arches NP, Utah.
    1 point
  41. A bit more done yesterday. More of the engine assembled. Water pump is a mess and will take time to clean up. I have had to get new front discs are the 675 ones are 310mm and the T595 320mm. Lucky there is a kit for the 675 to upgrade the discs to 320mm so its a straight forward purchase but a lot of money. Still a couple of Brembo Discs mated to the 4 pot calipers should make it brake with vigor 🙂
    1 point
  42. Pics of your rotors would help us help you also. If all else fails, grab the brakes hard and fast in the rain... (j/k!)
    1 point
  43. If I remember correctly, 6th gen. VFRs with ABS have gold brake calipers. Non-ABS bikes have black brake calipers. Maybe that changed at some point during the 6th gen's run, but it should be true for your 2004.
    1 point
  44. Also, on your Instrument Panel, you should see an ABS warning light at switch On. The light should go out when your speed exceeds 6mph.
    1 point
  45. There will be a small, notched ring on the front wheel with a sensor.
    1 point
  46. We had a bluebird 50f day here today, would have been rude not to wheel the bikes out and knock some dust off. First fire & neighborhood noise making of 2023... 😎
    1 point
  47. Another little job done, this time with an assist from Mr.Burns and his 3d printer to knock out this little spacer that helps mount the Rotrex oil filter on the A&A bracket. And now for something completely different... a little electrickery fitting the new fuse box and RB Race in the tail. Yaman at Rapid Bike in Florida was pretty adamant that I would void the warranty if I did anything other than look at the box, so when the ground wire was too short to connect to the battery no matter how I routed it, I went ahead and extended it instead of asking... Installing the RB meant connecting the oem O2 sensors. No problem on a normal install... but the 8g downsized to 1 sensor, and although this VFRD header has that + 1 wideband sensor bung, neither were going to work for routing the wires of the stock sensors. So... I used a low temp silicon bronze wire to tig braze the bungs in, minimizing the chance of ruining the exhaust flow with burn-through. The wideband and 8g O2 bungs are plugged for now. I have a wideband AF sensor and gauge that will be installed in the future. The result of the harness recall back in the day was pretty much all of this excess wiring... all now deleted since it was a lot of clutter, and the new SH847 r/r simplifies much of the issue that plagued the stock system anyway. While installing the switch gear I noticed the turn signal switch was a bit sticky, so broke that down and refurbed it. I also lubed up the switch pods and left them soak in some grease to refresh them a bit before installing. And then... Just as I was getting excited about firing this bad boy up for the first time in years... Ethanol gas kicked my ass People, use e-free gas whenever possible. My bike has been living indoors in my air conditioned and heated garage/workshop and never outside. This is what ethanol does to metal when left to sit. Keith at MasonCity Honda set me up wit ha great price on a brand new tank. It was a bitter pill to swallow, but I was starting to hit a time crunch to make the '22 Spring ride and I felt it needed to be done. I sourced a very clean, low mile pump assembly from ebay. I installed a brand new oem fuel filter, gasket and mesh pickup on the ebay unit when I installed the Toro kit upgraded fuel pump and saved the other new parts t orebuild my unit in the future. For what it's worth, I took a quick stab at cleaning my old tank with CLR. Results were promising, but I didn't care to take the time risk. I can tackle that in the future to have a backup. Diluted with water... 1 overnight sit made a good improvement Freshly rebuilt new-ish pump vs CLR soaked rusty oem pump... Does carbon fiber make you horny? I pressure tested all the individual parts I worked on And then also the full system!
    1 point
  48. Here's one a lot of you will appreciate. I had in the back of my mind a mod I had seen on a Euro or Spanish VFR forum. It was linked here years ago. Someone was taking 6g stator covers and modifying them to add an oil passage. I was trying to locate the info, and Miguel turned me on to looking at the 8g stator cover as Honda had apparently taken some measures to feed more oil to the stator on that model. Turns out he was right, and I ran with it. My brand new stator now has a fresh oil feed directly from the oil gallery! My 47,xxxmi stator was still working, but probably close to not, judging by the toasty condition This is the interior view of the 8g cover The red arrow indicates a port for a sensor that is unique to the 8g. It's not used on a 6g, so I turned up a plug and welded it in before I coated the cover. This is the location on the 6g block that needs to be drilled. I turned this drill bushing to allow me to drill the block perfectly You also have to drill a counterbore for the the orifice o-ring which will be installed I coated my drill with grease and pecked my way through, evacuating chips very frequently. When I broke through, I had a very tiny amount to clean up. The back side of the hole is not visible, but accessible, by removing the oil filter and threaded filter mount. I stuffed a rag past the new hole, and then used a vac and compressed air to ensure the were no chips left inside. Once done you can install the oem oil orifice and o-ring Here's the welded plug Cerakote color is Burnt Bronze The interior orifice size, in case anyone is curious: Job done: EDIT: I found out later there is one other mod needed to fit this cover... the 8g cover is TALLER/DEEPER than the 6g cover. It interferes with the coolant expansion tank. I taped over the cover and used a heat gun + hand pressure to form the tank to the new cover until it fit properly with the fairing. It didn't take a ton of effort, but it's worth noting for sure.
    1 point
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