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Bought this at the end of July. I knew it had issues as it sat for 13 years. Rusted tank 19 year old tires Original R/R Etc But it only had 11.5K on the clock So I spent a month cleaning the tank repeatedly, then treating it with Phosphoric Acid 3 times. This took awhile so in addition I built sliders/tip over protectors, went completely through the brakes, swapped my 8 spoke on to the rear and a new set of T32's, bobbins on the front axle just because I had them lying around, riding lights up front for Moose spotting, built some saddle bag frames and installed some longer heavier bar ends. Its odd but the bar ends on the VFR are exactly the same as on my VF1000R's After a couple of tests rides I took it on a 2800 trip down to VA,WV,PA upstate NY, VT NH then back to Maine I did encounter some engine surging about 1200 miles into the trip, but I made it back north so I'll address that in a separate post. Love the bike, a bit less sporty than my 3rd or 4th, but I bought it for touring, as my 4th has 114K and is showing it. My only complaint, and its not really a complaint is the braking system looks like it was designed by a bunch of French plumbers on their croissant break. First pic is off the trailer Next, the tank. Midway through the process. Tank clean My 3 red VFR's just because. Slider/tip over protectors Moose lights. Bobbins. Midway through building saddlebag frames. Bike at the top of rt 250 near the VA/WV line.

If it doesn't have a replaceable fuse then it's an auto reset breaker. Strongly suggest replacing it with a normal weather resistant 30amp fuse. Something like attached photo available at any good auto spares shop. Is the R/R a genuine Shindengen FA020AA?

You're my new hero!!! 😁

$200 $25 shipping 1st Gen Interceptor NOS never attached.

Couldnt agree more!

Very nice bikes you've got there, and the fastest colour as well 👍 Looks like you know what you're doing with the spanners and tools 👍

OIL SEAL (40X68X7.2) 91207-MW4-003 The "7.2" is the width. Just substitute with a 7 and search for a high quality 40x68x7. 40x68x7 is available in a double lip with spring from many sources. I do it all the time. 40x68x7mm FPM/FKM Oil Shaft Rotary Seal w/ Stainless Steel Spring Dbl Lip

Ohh wow! These look like they have seen a lot haha! I have reworded myself with new boots https://pandomoto.com/blog/product-by-tag/black-motorcycle-boots/ so far okay, also the price is not crazy. Had old ones for 7 years before...

Boy was I wrong on my theory related to rear spring rate. I had Phil at Aftershocks re-valve and re-spring my Vtec forks last summer and while I felt an improvement with the forks I wasn't happy with the bikes handling. I installed a CBR Ohlins on the rear at the same time as the redone forks, but I did not increase the spring rate for fear of a horrendous ride and I thought that if I could get the proper SAG with the stock rate spring than everything was cool. As mentioned I wasn't really impressed with the set-up and was considering another complete front end swap to a F4i, but after another conversation with Phil I was convinced to try a heaver rear spring rate first in order to bring the bikes balance back closer to what Honda originally had. Phil installed .95 kg forks spring and recommended 19 kg rear spring to maintain balance, so I ordered a 19 kg from Ohlins. Today was my first ride with the new spring set-up and I haven't even set proper SAG or dialed in the shock yet. Results, This thing is on Rails ! :goofy: Turns in better, holds a line better, does everything better. It has transformed the bike completely and I can only imagine how it will feel after I set Sag and spend a day on Comp. & Rebound settings. Amazing ! straight numbers are 30% stiffer on the front springs (.74 to .95) Rear spring in now 25% stiffer (15.5 kg to 19.3 kg) added from a newer post 10-19-07 Don't forget that with all this Forking around you guys are doing to the front that you need to consider increasing the rear spring rate to better maintain the bikes balance and get better performance from your forks too. I first did the forks with valving & .95's and I installed an Ohlins on the rear with a stock rate spring, though it was an improvement it wasn't right. When I finally installed the proper rear spring on the rear (19kg for my 200 lbs) it transformed both ends of the bike!!! fing02.gif Turns out running a soft/stock rear spring with new stiffer screwed up feel on both ends because the stiff front transfered more weight to the already to soft rear making it feel worse and the stiffer front tended to bounce across many bumps and irregular surfaces instead of absorbing them. I had a old post about it " transformed" don't know if it's still around, but consider stiffening the rear spring in close to the same percentage as the front and you'll be much happier. (note if you just commute and don't hit the twisties you may never notice it) cool.gif update 1/31/2010 After years of learning, reading and sharing set-up info mostly with Pete McCrary we realize that the ONLY way to achieve proper spring rates on out VFR's(or any bike) is by achieving BOTH desired FREE 7 RIDER SAG numbers! Rider sag numbers alone mean ABSOLUTELY nothing by them self in relation to determining correct Spring rates! I plan to add real world spring rate numbers here from members who have done it the right way achieving desired Free & Rider Sag numbers! I weigh 190 lbs and have a 19 kg(1065 lb) spring on a Vtec, I get the following numbers measuring by myself: Free sag- 12mm Rider sag- 32mm These are real close for what I want, but I want to check it again check it again w/help to be more accurate. So IMO if you weight 190 plus you'll need at least a 19kg spring to get close, I'll be trying a 20 kg real soon and post my numbers. BTW I started w/a 850 lb spring on my Ohlins and had No free sag w/35mm rider sag. BR jasonsmith: 220lbs no gear. I wear full textile top to bottom. 07 RWB VFR Parts Elka 3-Way with remote pre-load - Rear spring rate - 1100lb or 19.6kg (STOCK 15.3kg) 28% increase. FRSP S3732095 RT Front Fork Spring 36.7x34.5x315 .95kg from RaceTech (STOCK .74kg) with valving (see below) to compensate for the increased spring rate. 28% increase. RaceTech G2-R Gold Valve Kit - G2-R Next Generation Compression Kit FMGV S2040G Fork Rebound HFR Gold Valve Kit-Racing (Hi-Frequency Response Race Rebound Gold Valve) FRGV SR2001 Stock Oil Weight = Honda SS-8 (10wt) New Oil Weight = Maxima 5wt HP Fork Oil (RaceTech recommended US1 which is 2.5wt - 5wt from what I can tell) Numbers (with full gear, 3/4 full tank)... Front: Sag - 35 mm (3 lines exposed on the pre-load adjuster) Free Sag - 15mm, down 7mm. Rear: Sag - 35 mm (23 out of 52 available clicks in on the pre-load) Free Sag - 7mm (With a 1200# rear spring I would guess my free sag could be increased to 15mm or so at 35mm rider sag) * +

This is a Vtec shock option, IMO the 929 shock is the best swap for the 5th gen and has the same spring rate as the VFR. btw the vfr spring will not work on either the F4i or 929 shock. also the cbr 1100xx shock runs a stiffer spring( I think a 17 kg) and with bolt into either, but if I'm not mistaken it's like 1/4" shorter than a 5th gen and 1/4" longer than a 6th gen. and only has the same adjustments as the stock VFR shock.

Thanks for all the help. Weirdly I took the bolt off from the Clutch Master Cylinder blew into the opening to see if there was perhaps a blockage in the clutch master cylinder and all behold the lever gained friction and it's engaging again. Also it's revs are back to normal at 1 and a half purring.