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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/24/2019 in all areas

  1. Lazy PO... Instead of refurbing, paint over roughly...
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  2. Actually I was changing out comp. & rebound valves, but no reason you couldn't use this method for the same or just a quick oil change. :beer: Click on any pic to enlarge! First off place bike on center stand and place a jack under the front of the exhaust headers and unload the front wheel(off ground). Then remove the axle (I did not remove the calipers or wheel) Place a drain pan under the fork leg (I suggest only doing one side at a time) and remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork leg that holds the dampen rod assy. Some oil will drain at this point, now remove fork cap and allow the remaining oil to drain. Now you can remove the entire cartridge assy. (Note these are F4i forks on my track Vtec) At this point you can clean & rebuild the cartridge assy on the bench (I changed both the comp. & rebound valve assy & fork springs) and with empty tubes, you can easily flush out the fork tubes while still on the bike. If you want/need to work on either valve you need to push the lower valve(comp) up into the bottom of the cartridge to expose the inner c-clip, once removed (C-clip) you just push everything out the bottom of the cartridge with the upper rod. I reinstall the fork Cap and tighten the bottom bolt again. Repeat procedure on the other fork! At this point I reinstall the axle, then remove both caps & springs allowing me to add and set fork oil level. Pump/stroke the dampen rod several times until oil comes out the top of the inner tube, then reinstall springs and fork caps. Pump the forks a few times w/the brake on and tighten the last axle pinch bolt and your done! (Be sure to clean off any thing that may have got on rotors, pads or calipers) Nothing to it, quick & clean! :dry: BR's method 2213. Note: On oil level: I've already done all the calculations to achieve correct oil levels while forks are still on the bike! It amounts to ADDING 10mm from measured oil level height to give true level. ie: measure 100mm level on bike, actual is 110mm. You will need to add an additional 10cc of oil to compensate for the fork angle. If you have the actual cc amount (like 500cc's per leg) then you don't have to worry about it.
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