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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/2019 in all areas

  1. Version 1.0

    104,699 downloads

    This is the same manual that is already available here on VFRD. I have been using this so much lately that I went ahead and made it a little more useful for myself. I assumed that some other members might like to have it as well. Combined both files into one. Optimized the file size so that it is only 60 MB. Ran OCR text recognition to enable text searches on the entire book. Rotated pages that had landscape page diagram for ease of viewing. Created bookmarks for each chapter & sub-chapters. I figured this was the least I could do to contribute since I am getting so much help from this forum.
    1 point
  2. Wow, just dropped in to catch up between flights and you guys have been very busy. The clever bung fitting references and not being a pain in Wades butt are only exceeded by the work actually accomplished. I can hardly wait, hope to get one installed before the Spring Memorial ride.
    1 point
  3. Safe-T was cool enough several years ago to let me in on the modified rear axle to fit a single nut ducati rear wheel. I still have it, and it works really well, I just want something that could work as a spare, and don't necessarily want to have to rework the entire rear axle/brake system. Although, that wouldn't be a stretch, as pretty much everything on my VFR has been re-worked.....
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  4. Isn't it the same as the "Bros", a popular grey import from Japan, "back in the day"? There are both 400cc and 650cc version of the Bros out there...many in bits, I imagine! Complete rear ends seem to be going for £100-150... Ciao, JZH
    1 point
  5. Looking good highside, it'd be nice to have my wideband for the rapidbike there too.
    1 point
  6. I had a 3rd gen for 80-90K miles and shifting on the 5th is rougher. Not a problem, just not as good. I was able to pop down gears without the throttle and it was smooth and consistent, and upshifts were super consistent and quick. I shift the way Jason Pridmore taught me and he could do clutchless downsifts on a 4th gen, on a stand with the rear wheel in the air, that are so smooth you can't even see any chain lash. I rode on the back with him at Laguna Seca and you only knew he downshifted because you could hear it, there wasn't the slightest bit of roughness you could feel regardless of how hard or gentle his braking, and I actively practiced for years to try and achieve that level of smoothness. I can still do OK on the current bike, but the downshifts are just not as easy to do. This isn't lazy, it's me actively practicing my shifting and noticing a difference. So, yeah, if you're fine, good on ya. Enjoy your bike. But don't discount our perceptions. I also have a busted bolt (one of the LONG ones on the clutch actuator that the previous owner overtorqued), so I have to pull all that crap off anyway to drill it out. So the decision is easier for me. If I'm doing that work imma fuck with the shift star while I'm at it.
    1 point
  7. This is where I put my third bung when I made up my pipe. Sorry I don't have a shot with it on the bike but as you can see I positioned it to clear all of the running gear on the 6th Gen.
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  8. Don't put it where mine is! It barely fits in that location. (This is an Erion, btw.) Ciao, JZH
    1 point
  9. I'd love to verify this. I'm planning 3 sensors. Stock, with the third for my wideband o2. That's what I'm running now. I can have my buddy do it, but I'll be as happy throw a few dollars at wade as well as at my local friend if it is an option. If it's too much a PITA for us rapidbike guys, definitely don't press it. I'll be happy just to have the good pipes with stock bungs and not be a pain in Wade's butt.
    1 point
  10. MadScientist, your expertise goes right to the crux...at the welds inside the primaries of header #2 there are bits of weld material just barely protruding into the gas path around the internal circumference. I tried to reach in with the Dremel extension and hone down the intrusive weld material, but those bits are tough! They laughed at the high speed grinding tip. Yes, something in header #2 disrupted the combination of factors that make the TBR design so effective. boOZZIE, I'm not sure when/if we'll be able to get a mandrel bent production header onto the dyno - we'd certainly like to do so soon. Wade ordered materials and sent his design specs to his bender vendor, so we'll see how quickly completed production headers get shipped out. I'm going to ask him for a timeline when I see him Tuesday. I hope it's not long before we all get to see a dyno baseline and tuning of a production header. This may be something a customer from the list of persons who have placed deposits gets to first, soon after they receive their headers. At this time it appears the next known dyno baseline/tune on this project will be prototype #1 on VFRD member Hammerdrill's 6th gen, as he is purchasing those headers. Hammerdrill is having an exhaust shop open up the cans of his OEM 6th gen mufflers, gut them, install 1.5" perforated exhaust tubes and pack them. He's keeping the OEM muffler carcasses for their aesthestics. When the mufflers are done, he's going to get his 6th gen to Attack as soon as possible. Note: Prototype #2 is available for purchase at this time. Airisom, Mohawk's curiosity about a crossover header that matches the design of the 6th gen OEM headers but employs TBR tubing sizes and merges does get one pondering... Sadly, we are not equipped with time or resources [read: dinero] to pursue further prototypes and testing.
    1 point
  11. I did a lot of research on this and opinions abound. But fundamentally, 13.1 is often considered optimal for power, regardless of RPM. Those charts are right there, between 12.9 and 13.2. I'm not sure the default VFR tuning, but ideal AFR for mileage and emissions are well over 14 (a lot of modern cars default to 14.7:1) so I'm surprised those VFR base readings are lower than 13.1 to start with. I find that interesting. Anyway, I'm just setting my rapidbike to 13.2, which is the My Tuning Bike default, for my max power map and not worrying about it beyond that. Works now, power delivery is super smooth at all throttle. So I'll do the same with the new header. I assume Autotune is similar, just adjusting the map in real time depending on a wideband sensor. Looks promising all around. 5% increase may not sound like much, but it will be noticeable. Especially the extra bit in the midrange. I'm fat and ride on the street, so a couple more foot lbs of torque between 5 and 9K is nice to have. Mostly it'll be nice to have a quality, well made header that is better, as opposed to the same or worse like the Chinese ones of questionable qualities.
    1 point
  12. Yes that is correct, my TBR weighed in at 4Kg complete, a massive weight saving over the stock sytem. Your protype is right there on weight, well done. Re the slip joints, these are supposed to bottom out in the expanded section & a little silicone exhaust paste will seal them I have not had any blow by on mine is 15K miles. Keep up the good work, its nearly there 🙂
    1 point
  13. I agree with CornerCarver. I ran Mobil 1 red cap in my VFR for years and years. I thought the shifting was kind of notchy, so put in the Factory Pro kit. It helped some, but still wasn't what I thought it should be and would get worse as it got closer to an oil change. I just learned to live with it. Last year after riding the bike for 10 years, I switched brands of oil and all of the sudden the thing shifts butter smooth. Shame on me for waiting so long to try something different. Everyone talked about how great the red cap stuff was, so I figured the shifting issue was just my bike.
    1 point
  14. Well, it was 5 years ago that he did it... I too have noticed quite a difference in oils. My trans does not like M1 at all! All through TMac I was getting rough and missed shifts with oil that was over 5k miles old through 6700 miles at the end. Haven't gone back out since I changed it yesterday. May be back to smooth old self, but I figured I would treat the bike to new star and arm for it's 100k mile "birthday"!
    1 point
  15. I rolled the dice and placed a call to K&N to revive the discussion about the big mouth version of the HA-8098 for VFR800s. My call was answered by a representative who was not only willing to help, but held the position of product specialist. She could find no trace in the K&N system of the previous calls or emails I had exchanged with other reps. So I forwarded the email thread and photos to her this past Monday and heard nothing back. I sent an email follow-up today and eventually received this response: "Hello, The filter you are speaking of in the plastic wrap [large aperture version] is the only one we manufacture now. The older one may have been from our UK facility when we manufactured them there. The only one available for purchase is the one in the in the plastic wrap. The new one has more filter media space and will flow more air. If you would like to become a distributor of the K&N products or purchase for resale fill out our Dealer application. You can also email or call our UK facility." I sent a brief response thanking her for getting to the bottom of the puzzle and observed that part of the mystery stems from K&N's website photos featuring the small aperture filter and people who have recently purchased HA-8098 filters from K&N dealers receiving small aperture filters. There was no further response from her. To verify the info she provided, I ordered an HA-8098 directly from K&N's website. If it turns out to be the large aperture/big mouth filter that so many of us are after, I'll post it up on VFRD, then install the filter on VFRD member Hammerdrill's 6th gen prior to his dyno baseline and tune March 23.
    0 points
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