Leaderboard

Another thing to keep in mind is that after welding the bungs will need to have a tap run thru them to clean up the thread as they shrink and distort during welding. Also, make sure you use an anti-seize on the threads as stainless to stainless will gawl and lock up, especially once there is heat involved. Don't get the anti-seize on the sensor end. Apply it to the threads on the sensor and not in to the bung where it would get pushed out when screwing in the sensor. Phil

Like you, I didn't know what bend of handlebar to get. In the end I opted for LSL's AN1 bar. Not sure of the dimensions but it turns out that they suit me just fine so I haven't tried any alternatives. I found the throttle cables too short and ended up buying a set for the ST1300. Perhaps more patience and alternate routing would have resolved the problem. There is just a slight contact with the upper cowl at full lock, but no issues with the fuel tank. I still haven't gotten around to fitting bar-end weights. The AN1 bar is aluminum and the wall thickness prevents fitting the oe weights, and I haven't yet found a good alternative. Even so, the alloy bars still have much less vibration than the oe Honda 'bars. Vibration the more important reason I went to a tubular 'bar in the first place. Below is pic of my setup. Good luck,