Twistedkeys Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Howdy guys, new to the forum. Been wanting a (2010) VFR1200f for WHO KNOWS how long and I finally found one. The POs were EXTREAMLY hesitant to tell me what was wrong with it other than the fairings being in pretty bad condition. There was a slight burning smell and a very small leak, other than that though, the bike ran fine, had a clean title, looked straight, and was worth the $3500 to me. But, it's been sitting in my garage for 6 months half way through a valve adjustment job before I move onto more checks. This is insane and the most ridiculous "maintenance" job I've done on any of my 15 bikes over the last 12 years. Quote Turn the crankshaft clockwise, align the "MT RT" mark on the CKP sensor rotor with the index mark on the right crankcase cover Make sure that the No.2 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke Am I dumb? Because after all that, I still have these questions: 1. How do you tell it's on the compression stroke? Is this ANYTIME the piston is at TDC? The manual seems to differentiate. 2. It specifies piston #2, but do you change which piston you're working on (rotate the crankshaft) to TDC-CS depending on which valve set you're adjusting? Or do you keep it at TDC on piston 2 for all adjustments on the engine? 3. There are three adjustments PER cylinder. Even the guys at the shop were shocked by this. I see the lobe and the adjustment below the lock nut under the rocker arm, but where's the third...? Cheers!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted September 18, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted September 18, 2021 Howdy Twistedkeys, and welcome to the forum. You might have to post a nice pic of ya bike. Pardon my ignorance as I don't have a 1200 or ever worked on one. Firing order 2,4,3,1. 1. How do you tell it's on the compression stroke? Is this ANYTIME the piston is at TDC? The manual seems to differentiate. No, only TDC for Compression Stroke. Manual states to align the MT RT with the Index mark making sure No 2 is at TDC Compression stroke. The picture (see below) showing the front and rear cam gear positions for each cylinder will indicate TDC Compression Stroke. Also if you can insert your feeler gauge for all four valves then you must be at TDC Compression stroke. Once you are sure No 2 is at TDC on Compression its a simple clockwise rotation per below for the next three cylinders to be at TDC Compression. 2. It specifies piston #2, but do you change which piston you're working on (rotate the crankshaft) to TDC-CS depending on which valve set you're adjusting? Or do you keep it at TDC on piston 2 for all adjustments on the engine? Each cylinder and its four valves must be checked at its own TDC compression stroke. After No 2 it states to rotate clockwise 104deg so the MT FT aligns with the Index mark. This will place No 4 at TDC, Compression stroke, check its valves. After No 4 rotate clockwise 256deg so the MT RT aligns with the Index mark. This will place No 3 at TDC check its valves. After No 3 rotate clockwise 104deg so the MT FT aligns with the Index mark. This will place No 1 at TDC check its valves. 3. There are three adjustments PER cylinder. Even the guys at the shop were shocked by this. I see the lobe and the adjustment below the lock nut under the rocker arm, but where's the third...? Don't quote me on this but I'm guessing for the exhaust you can either measure the clearance of the Rocker Arm Roller and Cam Lobe OR Valve Stem side. Both of these clearances are stated for the Exhaust Valves, exhausts are adjuster and lock nut where the two inlets are standard bucket shim arrangement, clearance for the Inlets is measured between Valve Lifter and Cam Lobe. Not sure what you mean regards three adjustments? Hope this helps....In some way, I'm no expert when it comes to valves. Hopefully some of the 1200 owners may be able to help further OR correct anything I've mentioned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 18, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted September 18, 2021 My simple brain method is to move the crank for the valves that I'm working on so the cam lobe is pointing away from the valve bucket/rocker; that is the point of maximum clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted September 18, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted September 18, 2021 15 minutes ago, Terry said: My simple brain method is to move the crank for the valves that I'm working on so the cam lobe is pointing away from the valve bucket/rocker; that is the point of maximum clearance. Now that makes good common sense. Why don't Honda advise that method? My guess is just to keep things methodical, working with all 4 valves at each cylinder in sequence one cylinder at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twistedkeys Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 Thanks guys! I've found myself MUCH further along with this info, and with realizing that the valve adjustment pages keep going in the manual... I'm still wondering, if the exhaust cam lobe/rocker arm adjustment is off, how do you readjust? The videos just show tightening the lock nut on the rocker arm above the lifter more, but, that obviously doesn't do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted September 20, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted September 20, 2021 5 hours ago, Twistedkeys said: Thanks guys! I've found myself MUCH further along with this info, and with realizing that the valve adjustment pages keep going in the manual... I'm still wondering, if the exhaust cam lobe/rocker arm adjustment is off, how do you readjust? The videos just show tightening the lock nut on the rocker arm above the lifter more, but, that obviously doesn't do the trick. Mate, I don't know what video you're watching, BUT the Service Manual simply states to loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw! Correct me if I'm wrong but by turning the adjusting screw will effect both Roller side and Valve side depending on which position you want to measure. Setting the valve side correct will mean the roller side will be correct and visa versa. See Attached! "This is insane and the most ridiculous "maintenance" job I've done on any of my 15 bikes over the last 12 years." Seriously! Am I missing something here? Have you done valve clearance adjustments before? From what I read in the Service Manual it all seems to make good sense to me and as stated, I've never worked on a VFR1200! The 1200 Unicam system seems far simpler than a 6 or 8gen twin cam VTEC system! Perhaps some of the more experienced 1200 owners may be able to explain things better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twistedkeys Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 Thanks Grum, I'll have to try it again when I get a chance and take a couple photos. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC1237V Posted October 5, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted October 5, 2021 Like above, I just make sure I'm on the base circle of the cam for the lifter I am adjusting. Never paid attention to that other stuff, unless I'm setting cam timing, then it's very important! I remember it not being that bad of a job, but it was hard to get the feeler gauges in there sometimes, and access for tools was tight.. My intakes were spot-on, exhaust needed a micro-adjust, but it was easy once you "learn" how much to turn the adjuster to make a difference, including tightening the jam nut. Take your time, and only have beer when you're done 😜 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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