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1998 to 2000 conversion


bmart

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On 9/15/2021 at 12:50 PM, bmart said:

Also discovering the VFRness is different...and the R/R?


You want the Roadstercycle SH847 Kit. It includes a Shindengen SH847 Series R/R, which is the latest in R/R technology. Also, it includes a stand-alone wire harness that gets the charging circuit out of the bike’s main harness and it adds a 30A breaker before the battery, two things that add a level of protection. Lastly, this setup uses the battery as a power bank, which allows the R/R to open/close, or cycle, the charging circuit, which allows the stator and R/R to run cooler.
 

Forget about the VFRness. It’s a waste of time and money. 
 

I was working in a Honda dealership, in 2000. We had gotten in a new VFR that I drooled over, everyday. Unfortunately, there was no way I could afford one. The memory of that bike has always stuck in my mind, so I get the affinity for yellow bodywork. As much as I don’t like the wax idle unit or catalytic converter, I’d still go for the 2000. Just keep in mind, despite its low mileage, it’s still a 21yr-old bike and will need all the same maintenance items as a higher mileage bike of the same year. 

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The cheaper, proven solution is the MOSFET Yamaha R1 one--you can pick them up on eBay, or even new.  Never heard of any failing (but I'm sure at least a few have!)

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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Care to provide years or p/ns that work? Direct plug in or rewire? I'll be awake soon & will search!

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If you’re shopping used R/R’s, you want a Shindengen SH847 off a 2014+ V-Strom 1000 (Suzuki part #32800-31J00). This will get you latest in Series R/R technology. 
 

Neither aforementioned R/R’s are plug and play. You’ll need to source the plugs and create a harness. I’d strongly suggest replicating the Roadstercycle harness and getting the charging circuit out of the main harness, as well as adding some form of circuitry protection. Using an SH847 and creating a harness like shown, utilizes the battery as a power bank for the bike to run on. This allows the SH847 to open/close the charging circuit as needed (the SH847 does not shunt), which is what allows the stator and R/R to run so much cooler.

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Another series R/R is the SH775 (Polaris #4012941), and it would work well too.  I would get the RoadsterCycle harness, as it is robust and good quality wire, circuit breaker and connectors..... you can't really build that much cheaper or as good yourself.

Installing the Roadster harness totally eliminates stock wiring from the equation.

 

Yet another SH series regulator is from a Versys 1000 2015-up.

The Yamaha (FJR, FJ-09, etc.) used a mofset FH-020-AA.... they didn't have history of failing.

 

What you may find is that used R/R's are half or more of what you can buy a new one at Roadster for........

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On 9/26/2021 at 12:31 PM, raYzerman said:

Yet another SH series regulator is from a Versys 1000 2015-up.

The Yamaha (FJR, FJ-09, etc.) used a mofset FH-020-AA.... they didn't have history of failing.

 

 

I have run the FH020AA for 3 seasons....no issues, it's fine...

 

----- So hey gang, should I develop a 5th gen SH847 mount plate kit.... similar to the 6th gen? 

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On 9/25/2021 at 6:17 AM, JZH said:

The cheaper, proven solution is the MOSFET Yamaha R1 one--you can pick them up on eBay, or even new.  Never heard of any failing (but I'm sure at least a few have!)

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

This is the route I took. It's been fine. I did have to shave down the heatsink fins (easy), but aside from the wiring and mounting (also easy), that was it. Please don't ask for pictures, I really don't want to take the tail plastic off...

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Thanks for reviving the thread. I'll look that one up. The VFRness on my '98 has been spot on in it and the '99 before it. The '00 got new Dunlop RSIIs and one day I'll have time to test ride it! Larger rear sprocket and levers are also on the bench and ready for install. 

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My VFR connections on this list indicate that I'm doomed if I do nothing. My VFR sources off of this list say that most VFRs run just fune into high mileage without issue. So...I'm open to a cheap fix, but not interesting in spending 10% of the bike's value on electrons. 🙂  Plus, Yamahas rock, so it would be fun to have a Yamaha R/R on the VFR. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Quick question. I swapped the stock front fork springs (.740 kg/mm) for .900 kg/mm but the front is very rigid after. I used shorter spacers to match the combined length of the stock parts. Before I go swapping spacer lengths, can you guys think of anything that could have gone wrong? This was really simple and I've installed many fork springs over the years without issue. 

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Did you verify your new oil level after installing the new springs?  They could have taken up more volume and raised the oil level, reducing the air space.

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It was a few weeks and dozens of projects ago...but I can pull them and look/measure again. I've always measured with teh springs out, as all of my manuals suggest. Do you have another method? 

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No, of course that's the way.  Not sure what my point was now.  ; - )

 

I guess you need to reduce your oil level now with the new stiffer springs.

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I don't recall exactly but my gut feel is that there quite a bit more preload on the stock springs than you would want with 0.9kg/mm items. Racetech's standard advice is to set the spacer length so you get 10mm of preload with the preload adjusters backed out fully. To work that out put the springs and washers in place and extend the fork fully, then measure down from the fork top to the top of the washer. Back the preload adjuster in the cap fully out and then measure the distance from the point of contact with the fork top to the underside of the cupped washer. Subtract one from the other and that is the no preload spacer length, and add 10mm to that. Then check the sag when you sit on the bike which should be around 1/4- to 1/3 total travel, adjust with the preload adjuster or change the spacer if needed.

 

Changing the oil level won't make much difference to the fork feel excepting bottoming resistance. With decent springs you should also at least consider replacing the compression valves with a set of Gold Valves or their equivalent. That will make the biggest difference to the ride comfort and take the edginess off the bump absorption.

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18 minutes ago, Terry said:

I don't recall exactly but my gut feel is that there quite a bit more preload on the stock springs than you would want with 0.9kg/mm items. Racetech's standard advice is to set the spacer length so you get 10mm of preload with the preload adjusters backed out fully. To work that out put the springs and washers in place and extend the fork fully, then measure down from the fork top to the top of the washer. Back the preload adjuster in the cap fully out and then measure the distance from the point of contact with the fork top to the underside of the cupped washer. Subtract one from the other and that is the no preload spacer length, and add 10mm to that. Then check the sag when you sit on the bike which should be around 1/4- to 1/3 total travel, adjust with the preload adjuster or change the spacer if needed.

 

Changing the oil level won't make much difference to the fork feel excepting bottoming resistance. With decent springs you should also at least consider replacing the compression valves with a set of Gold Valves or their equivalent. That will make the biggest difference to the ride comfort and take the edginess off the bump absorption.

 

I agree that the preload needs to be reevaluated, but fork oil level can certainly make a big difference to the fork feel if it is too high.  There can be not enough air volume to compress before it feels locked.

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I'm going to pull the '98 fork cap off this week and compare. I should have thought of that earlier. Those are perfect. Thermosman is a magician. 

 

If I keep both bikes, I'll revalve it. 

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Talked with Jack on the R/R options today. They're a lot easier than his website. 😛

 

Pulled a cap on the red '98 today. The distances are nearly identical to the troublemaker yellow '00. 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, bmart said:

Talked with Jack on the R/R options today. They're a lot easier than his website. 😛

 

 

If you install an 847, I'll be very interested in learning what your experience is with it, particularly at idle with the fan running.

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I haven't decided on which one, or if I'll just run the stock setup. What would you expect to be different/what would I notice? 

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For folks who have bought from Jack, did you ge the universal 2 way or 4 way mounting bracket for the 5th gen? Thanks!

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8 hours ago, bmart said:

For folks who have bought from Jack, did you ge the universal 2 way or 4 way mounting bracket for the 5th gen? Thanks!

On the FH020aa R/R, it mounts easy by drilling 2 holes, it's the OEM size.  The 847 for 5th gen takes a bit of creativity to mount it. It's physically larger than stock.

(6th gen, I have mount kits for that.)

 

>Ok gang.....Should I develop a 5th gen mount for the 847?

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