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VFR800 Charging problem


Bluaz

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Im a bit confused after reading a lot of threads so, heres my problem.
My VFR800 is an 2007, everything worked perfect until my bike stayed 3 weeks. So after 3 weeks, i saw that she cant keep the voltage up as she did after i parked her 3 weeks ago.
Voltage stay at 12.4v at idle and 12.7-8v at 5000rpm, but after a while of riding, my voltmeter read constant 12.6-8 at idle and 13-13.1v around 5000-6000rpm and sometimes jump for some seconds/minuts to 14.5-14.8v as she was working before.
I checked stator and r/r connections, all looks good without burns or something. I tested R/R with multimeter, it was 0.368 on diodes and stator gave me 0.01 ohm.

What could be wrong? What should i check further? I didnt had any problem with other electrical components.
P.S: when i started her after 3 weeks, she turned a bit hard(not instantly as its did or doing now) and dashboard got off for half a second. Battery had 12.8v and usually when i check, battery keep voltage around 12.8-13v even after 1-2 week.

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Resistance checks are not definitive.  I've had good Reg/Rect test bad, and bad ones test good.  It sure sounds like you have a failing Reg/Rect if your battery is truly in good shape.  Of course there's other possibilities, but if EVERYTHING else checks out ok, it's where I would start.

 

Good luck.

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Well, to be honest, battery is 4 year old. Could give wrong voltage reading ? I think if battery is bad or good its doesnt matter, am i wrong ? I mean its doesnt matter after the bike its started and running.

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39 minutes ago, Bluaz said:

Well, to be honest, battery is 4 year old. Could give wrong voltage reading ? I think if battery is bad or good its doesnt matter, am i wrong ? I mean its doesnt matter after the bike its started and running.

 

Voltage alone is not definitive of battery health.   Testing voltage under load is more telling.   Most auto parts stores will do that for you.  You can do a "good enough" version of the test.  Place your meter across the battery and observe the voltage while the engine is cranking for 15 to 30 seconds.  It should not go under about 10.5 volts - closer to 11+ is better.  Below 10v and you likely need a new one and if close to 9v the engine will likely be cranking slowly and it's had it.   If the engine starts too quickly to crank that long, you can run it out of fuel (or drain it) or disable the fuel pump (pull the connector or fuse)  so it will crank longer. 

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If you cranked it for 15 seconds +, that's a good voltage number.  If you have an 847 installed that's probably not your problem, but I also have an 847 and it exhibits some behavior like you mention.  You need to go through this methodically, checking each connection starting at the battery, the chassis ground (follow the negative battery cable to it) and stator connectors.  Next to the battery is the 30A main fuse - check it - pull it out and closely observe the connector and the wires leading to it.   Also, you should check your stator more thoroughly.  Check ohms between each of the three yellow wires both to each other and to ground.  You should get infinite resistance (zero continuity).  If there is some lower reading or you get continuity, the stator is bad.  Also, check the voltage between each pair of yellow wires at idle and 5,000 rpm.  Set the meter to Volts AC (not DC) - at idle it should be around 20v, and 5,000 rpm 60v.  Gen 6s eat stators like potato chips, so it would be no surprise if it's gone or is going bad. 

 

Finally, some Oxgard will do all the connectors good.  If you do not have it locally, it can be found online for purchase.  It is a conductive paste that also helps prevent corrosion.

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

If you cranked it for 15 seconds +, that's a good voltage number.  If you have an 847 installed that's probably not your problem, but I also have an 847 and it exhibits some behavior like you mention.  You need to go through this methodically, checking each connection starting at the battery, the chassis ground (follow the negative battery cable to it) and stator connectors.  Next to the battery is the 30A main fuse - check it - pull it out and closely observe the connector and the wires leading to it.   Also, you should check your stator more thoroughly.  Check ohms between each of the three yellow wires both to each other and to ground.  You should get infinite resistance (zero continuity).  If there is some lower reading or you get continuity, the stator is bad.  Also, check the voltage between each pair of yellow wires at idle and 5,000 rpm.  Set the meter to Volts AC (not DC) - at idle it should be around 20v, and 5,000 rpm 60v.  Gen 6s eat stators like potato chips, so it would be no surprise if it's gone or is going bad. 

 

Finally, some Oxgard will do all the connectors good.  If you do not have it locally, it can be found online for purchase.  It is a conductive paste that also helps prevent corrosion.

 

Well, the main fuse looked good from outside, all the connectors from R/R and stator are close to brand new, i didnt checked the chassis ground(didnt know where there are exactly), the infinite resistance is there, all 3 wire gave me 18-20v at idle and 60-70v at 5000rpm. 
P.S: there is 0 grease on connectors and 0 oxids,maybe a very very thin white coat but normal. 
P.S2: there was a bit of white oxids on one pin from starter relay(the connector close to the battery), strange because just one pin had it.

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Start with the battery.
 

A battery that doesn’t maintain voltage over a 3wk period is on its way out. Voltage will show artificially low, because the battery is placing extra load on the charging system and not just being topped up/maintaining. A healthy battery won’t pull as much voltage from the system. 
 

I’d suggest getting an unserviced, new battery and a maintenance charger. When putting the battery into service, put the acid pack into the battery, let it empty, then, let it sit 3-4 hours. This will allow the matting to fully absorb the acid. Lightly tap the battery on the countertop to dislodge any bubbles. Then, put it on a maintenance charger, until the light goes green, indicating a fully-charged battery. Most shops rush the process and is why I’d never buy a battery they’ve serviced. The more thorough and gentle the process, the better life expectancy will be. Also, plugging the battery into a maintenance charger anytime the bike is parked will benefit battery life, as well. I got 12yrs out of the Yuasa in my SV, doing as I’ve described. 
 

Lastly, eliminate the stator wire connector that leads to the R/R. That is the most trouble-prone connector on the whole bike. Then, plan for a Roadstercycle SH847 R/R Kit, as it’ll ensure many years of reliable charging system performance. 

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31 minutes ago, ducnut said:

Start with the battery.
 

A battery that doesn’t maintain voltage over a 3wk period is on its way out. Voltage will show artificially low, because the battery is placing extra load on the charging system and not just being topped up/maintaining. A healthy battery won’t pull as much voltage from the system. 
 

I’d suggest getting an unserviced, new battery and a maintenance charger. When putting the battery into service, put the acid pack into the battery, let it empty, then, let it sit 3-4 hours. This will allow the matting to fully absorb the acid. Lightly tap the battery on the countertop to dislodge any bubbles. Then, put it on a maintenance charger, until the light goes green, indicating a fully-charged battery. Most shops rush the process and is why I’d never buy a battery they’ve serviced. The more thorough and gentle the process, the better life expectancy will be. Also, plugging the battery into a maintenance charger anytime the bike is parked will benefit battery life, as well. I got 12yrs out of the Yuasa in my SV, doing as I’ve described. 
 

Lastly, eliminate the stator wire connector that leads to the R/R. That is the most trouble-prone connector on the whole bike. Then, plan for a Roadstercycle SH847 R/R Kit, as it’ll ensure many years of reliable charging system performance. 

Battery maintained the voltage over 3 weeks, and is keeping up. Even with this problem that, i did around 300-400km and it didnt died. Actually, after that km she start to give sooner the good value, but still not stable as was before and very big difference 12.6-14.8v while run.

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22 minutes ago, Bluaz said:

Battery maintained the voltage over 3 weeks, and is keeping up. Even with this problem that, i did around 300-400km and it didnt died. Actually, after that km she start to give sooner the good value, but still not stable as was before and very big difference 12.6-14.8v while run.


You stated the bike had been parked 3wks and when you went to start it, it was slow to crank and the display went out. That’s an indication of the battery being week. 

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3 minutes ago, ducnut said:


You stated the bike had been parked 3wks and when you went to start it, it was slow to crank and the display went out. That’s an indication of the battery being week. 

Slow start like, instead of 1sec, took around 2-3sec. But from then, didnt have a problem with start and i dont ride it daily, more 1 time per week.

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5 hours ago, Bluaz said:

Tested it, it go down to 10.8v at start + R/R is SH847FA or something like this.

 

Re-reading this, I guess we should confirm exactly how many seconds you held the starter button down . . . if only for a few seconds until the engine starts, it's not enough.  As I mentioned, you should disable the fuel delivery either by it being dry or unplugging the fuse or connector to the fuel pump (the latter requires you raise the tank).  You need to hold the starter button for at least 15 but preferably 30 seconds.  That will seem like a long time - longer than you've ever cranked it before.  After that long it should still be holding close to 11 volts while cranking (not after you've stopped).  It's a demanding test for a battery, but that what it needs to do to prove it's in good shape.  Once that's complete, get it on the tender or charger to top it back up.  I think ducnut is on to it - a weak battery will give all sorts of weird problems.  Until that's verified good, you're chasing shadows and it will be very frustrating.  

 

As for the battery negative connection, it's attached to the horiztontal piece of the frame where the upper shock mount bolts - it's under the tank just in front of the tank's hinge.  You'll need to raise the tank to check it.  White, fuzzy material around the bolt is a sign of bi-metallic corrosion - that's what the Oxgard is for - to help in preventing that. 

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