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22 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

I wonder if a 1990 - 1993 would fit. 

 

Bump.  I bet they it would.

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Might have to come up with a "stop" if it is too high in the resting position.

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Is yours physically missing?  They are just mild steel, they can be bent back from almost anything.  And if the end is knackered, just cut a little shorter and dress it up.   You can even bend it a little outward and re-adjust the angle to compensate.

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I still have the pedal but it's bent inwards /upwards and welded so if I try to bend it could brake. It's hard to find the brake pedal with my boots.

Maybe the best thing to do would be taking to a shop and have them realign.

 

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You don't have to bend at the weld at all.  You can manipulate it with two large crescent wrenches, a vise and a torch.  Grab it right behind the weld on the arm and use the second wrench for twisting leverage on the first wrench if needed.   The same method anywhere else to compensate on the final position.  And it doesn't need to be red hot, just a little heat to make it happier.  I could have that back and painted in 15 minutes.  

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Yeah, piece of cake repair. 

 

You want to apply force in opposite direction that bent it. So grab the round peg part at end with chennel-lok pliers from outside and bend downward. Done!

 

BTW - how do you think shop would "align" anyway?

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21 minutes ago, DannoXYZ said:

Yeah, piece of cake repair. 

 

You want to apply force in opposite direction that bent it. So grab the round peg part at end with chennel-lok pliers from outside and bend downward. Done!

 

BTW - how do you think shop would "align" anyway?

 

Normally that's exactly what I would do on a customer parking lot tip-over (or the right size tube or an old closed end wrench for better leverage).  But he stated he was concerned about putting force on the welded repair.

 

Still easy as pie.

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

 

Normally that's exactly what I would do on a customer parking lot tip-over (or the right size tube or an old closed end wrench for better leverage).  But he stated he was concerned about putting force on the welded repair.

 

Still easy as pie.

Ah, I didn't realize it had been repaired. In which case, grab flat part of lever vertically with crescent-wrench near peg and rotate that.

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6 minutes ago, DannoXYZ said:

Ah, I didn't realize it had been repaired. In which case, grab flat part of lever vertically with crescent-wrench near peg and rotate that.

 

You mean exactly what I said the first time?  ; - )

 

I guess I did say to use a vise too (implying remove it).  But I would have corrected a couple issues on that lever in just a few more minutes.

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Oh yea, you gave safe & sure way to fix! 🙂

 

One idea with these scarce and getting even more rare parts is to modify them for more durability. On my track bikes I cut off the toe-pegs and convert them to replaceable design. Drill hole in end of lever and use aluminium bolts to hold break-away toe-pegs. Then in event of tip-over or crash, not enough force gets through to bend lever; bolt breaks off 1st before sufficient force gets through.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FD6C8J

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I like that.  I actually did it on a hard to find VF1000R shifter that was mangled, but it was my own "design".  Worked great.

 

Next time I will countersink the back for a cleaner look from above.

 

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I drilled and tapped the lever, but ran a slightly longer button head with a super thin nut on the back for a little piece of mind (with a touch of loctite).

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