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Neutral light failure


YellowBee

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By way of introduction, I took possession of this beautiful '00 Gen 5 last year, 2020, so I haven't had it long.  It has around 46k MILES (74k kilometers) on odometer.  The PO was a friend of mine who died suddenly of brain cancer.  He bought it new and took very good care of this machine.  I have since installed a charge port to the dash (switched power from the battery), new tires (Metzler Roadtec 01), battery, brake pads, chain and sprockets (they were hard to come by, at least the rear), engine oil and filter (10W-30 dino juice), and flushed the brake and clutch fluid.  Regular maintenance kind of stuff.

 

The bike runs and drives great, pulls hard, and generally runs like it should.

 

Except for the other day when the neutral light wouldn't come on when I tried to start it.  The gear box would go into neutral but the neutral indicator light on the dash wouldn't come on.  Therefor, I couldn't start it with the side stand deployed.  I could only start it seated with the side stand up and the clutch pulled in.

 

Ideas on where to start?  I have the full shop manual but I haven't started to dig into this issue yet.

 

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Sorry to hear about your friend.  I had a riding friend that passed under similar circumstances - no diagnosis of cancer, but one morning he just did not wake up - first responders found him in bed unresponsive.

 

IIRC the neutral switch threads in to the engine case aft of the clutch cover.  Mite start by checking that the wire connection there is good.  You could also check the switch with a DVOM to see if it cycles as you go in and out of neutral.  The fix could be as easy as threading in a new one.

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Sorry, English, please.  Explain in full text "IIRC" and "DVOM".  I have been wrenching bikes for 25 years but I need a bit more to go on.

 

Is this connection something that could have been damaged when I was swapping out the front sprocket?  If it's aft of the clutch cover, then that's the other side, right?  Must consult the manual...

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"If I remember correctly".  Got that one.  DVOM is still a mystery.

 

More disclosure: I have a flip phone so text speak shortcuts are beyond me.

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Welcome to the forum YellowBee that's a beautiful 5gen, sad story of your friend, no doubt this bike is very dear to you, makes it all the more important to care for it. Gotta get that Neutral function sorted.

 

DVOM = Digital Volt Ohm Meter, or more commonly called a DVM, or simply a multi meter.

If you have a meter and know how to use it we can guide you through testing the switch and wiring.

 

Switch is just below the oil fill cap.

 

Remove the single wire from the switch. Make sure this connection is clean and good and that it has a firm grip on the switch terminal.

 

With a meter on the lowest ohms range or Buzzer mode, probe between Ground (battery negative terminal) and the switch terminal you should have zero ohms, continuity, or buzzer, when the bike is in Neutral. AND open circuit, no buzzer, no continuity, when the bike is In Gear.

If not the switch is faulty.

 

For info the Neutral Switch part number is 35600-KE8-003 $16.78 on the Partzilla website or just Google it.

 

If the switch is ok then we need to confirm continuity of the Light/Green neutral wire up to the Clutch Diode located in your fuse box.

 

Lets know how you go with the switch check.

 

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Yep, multi meter.  Got it.  Fluke T5-600 lives in my tool bag.  I have more complex multi meters but I like the simplicity of the T5.  I had the sneaking suspicion that's what DVOM meant.  I'm a smart monkey with opposable thumbs and I like fixin' stuff...

 

Rainy day here in Vermont so I'll dig into this today.  Thank you for the very detailed trouble shooting; seems simple enough.  It's either an open circuit or a closed circuit or the switch is bad.

 

I'm always so grateful for experienced forum folks.  Years ago, I rehabbed two, '82 Yamaha XJ750 Maxim barn finds and the process would have been so much harder without knowledgeable folks online.  Thanks again.

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