Jump to content

Engine GRANADED left stranded in the middle of nowhere -=SOLVED!=-


Recommended Posts

I know I've already post in one of the groups on fb but wanted to share my story here as well.
Bought "fatty" 6 months ago, UK imported , true, unknown history, but the bike sounded and runned excelent 40 something km 
Spend another hefty sum doing complete service,tyres,pads,plugs etc. I've rode it for some 4000km with no indication whatsoever. Excellent bike, powerfull,  super stable at high speeds. Can make turns one handed with 180kph. First vacation time I've packed it and went for a holiday. True! I've rode it hard, here you can go easy 200+km/h on the highway, and yes I kinda pushed it to the limit 250+ for some 150km. When slowed down I heard what can only be described as rod knock. I was conviced its something else ( I've messed arround the rear manifold the day before having small exhaust leak) But the knock was there and then the engine seized for good! In the middle of the night , in the middle of nowhere with giant mosquitoes eating me alive!
Anyway engine is locked, yet to be disassembled, stripped the bike will drop the engine tomorrow. But being locked hard I dont think its rebuildable or at least not cheap. Cannot sourse used engine localy and whats the point of doing that? All the folks of the fb group swear is the most relible thing ever but now going through the web I find many other examples of the same happening. 
Video is the last time it ran knocking...
Any suggestion are welcome. Excuse my spelling, English is not my first language and I'm pissed of to be bothered to spell check it. And thank you for your time.

IMG_1425.JPG

  • Sad 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Sorry for your troubles.  :sad:   Someone had that happen to a 7th gen IIRC in Africa? some years ago, maybe 7 to 8 - anyway, he got another motor and swapped it. IIRC the bearings in that motor were ruined.   Motors are around, but you have a DCT, that might be more difficult to source.   For your location, the expensive part of that would be shipping if it were coming from the US particularly, or even from the UK or other parts of Europe.   At this point you're on the right track - you might before pulling the motor out, drain the oil and have a sample analyzed - and then run a magnet through the oil to see if it picks anything up.  Also, cut the oil filter open and see what's inside.   If there are magnetic particles in it, she's had it.  Probably a given if the engine is seized.  You could pull the pan and then remove a rod cap to inspect a bearing if you want to see that prior to dropping the motor out.  Hopefully you can source another motor and get her back on the road - it's a nice looking bike in that color. 

 

Best of luck with it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

One of my coworkers bought the first 2010 released in Canada, pre ordered and paid for.  Waited a year for it.  Was so excited - at less than 10k km, engine grenaded.  I don't remember exactly but bearings were involved.  Honda refused to cover it, he literally parted the bike and lost the better part of $20k Canadian.

 

Its the main reason I haven't tried to buy one - way way more examples that have no issues than do have the engine issue, but your experience is super unfortunate  and one I'd rather avoid.


I believe the problem was more common across the pond... may have been a Honda recall?  Swarf left in the engine at manufacturing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Not sure if there’s much difference between the VFR and the Crosstourer but here’s a complete motor and automatic gearbox 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274857159943?fits=UKM_CCM%3A1200|UKM_Make%3AHonda|UKM_Model%3AVFR&hash=item3ffec36d07:g:TWAAAOSwmwtg4yOn

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What a fucking mess
Was one of my worst fears picking up this bike, the stories of the engine just dying of death with little warning. 
 Mind if i ask what generation your bike was? I am yet to hear of a 2011+ gen having this issue. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Cogswell said:

Sorry for your troubles.  :sad:   Someone had that happen to a 7th gen IIRC in Africa? some years ago, maybe 7 to 8 - anyway, he got another motor and swapped it. IIRC the bearings in that motor were ruined.   Motors are around, but you have a DCT, that might be more difficult to source.   For your location, the expensive part of that would be shipping if it were coming from the US particularly, or even from the UK or other parts of Europe.   At this point you're on the right track - you might before pulling the motor out, drain the oil and have a sample analyzed - and then run a magnet through the oil to see if it picks anything up.  Also, cut the oil filter open and see what's inside.   If there are magnetic particles in it, she's had it.  Probably a given if the engine is seized.  You could pull the pan and then remove a rod cap to inspect a bearing if you want to see that prior to dropping the motor out.  Hopefully you can source another motor and get her back on the road - it's a nice looking bike in that color. 

 

Best of luck with it. 

I've drain the oil splashing on a top of a magnet and discover nothing. Cut the oil filter carefully still nothing then I discover why there was nothing after I pull the pan off. The chunks of shiny/gold color metal were so large the oil funnel filter them and they stay in the pan, draining the oil wouldn move them out as they big and heavy!!Just imagine.... The mesh filter is microscopic to let any metal particulates through to end up in the filter.
Unfortunately the main/rod caps are high up in the engine and cannot even see them. Further disassembly required. Spend the afternoon fighting single engine mount bolt seized hard (UK kinda rusty bike) Got it out and gave up for now.

Oil samples are not available arround and kinda pointless at this stage , but thank you for your companionship. Really appreciat fine suggestions!

 

 

12 hours ago, rhoderage said:

One of my coworkers bought the first 2010 released in Canada, pre ordered and paid for.  Waited a year for it.  Was so excited - at less than 10k km, engine grenaded.  I don't remember exactly but bearings were involved.  Honda refused to cover it, he literally parted the bike and lost the better part of $20k Canadian.

 

Its the main reason I haven't tried to buy one - way way more examples that have no issues than do have the engine issue, but your experience is super unfortunate  and one I'd rather avoid.


I believe the problem was more common across the pond... may have been a Honda recall?  Swarf left in the engine at manufacturing



That was horrible10k and engine failure! I thought swarf problem was only on the european models (doesnt make sense since all are made in one line in Japan) But yeah , I've got the impression that when new even for the ''west" people that was an expensive bike, and this to happen , and Honda not to take responsibility is bad bad bad. Honda admited for the swarf left from manufacturing but only for 397 bike in the UK and recall them all. Or at least that what old artical I found says. But Honda UK is another story, they use to fix granaded out of warranty spayed with 50shot of nitro engines just to make customers happy (another story I've read). Anyway...
Will fight for now but I see only used engine as an option, and then what? Swarf blocked oil passage will may still be there.. I'll be so affraid to push it and whats the point of having 1200 if you ride it with 250  speeds.. I dont know...

 

1 hour ago, Thumbs said:

Not sure if there’s much difference between the VFR and the Crosstourer but here’s a complete motor and automatic gearbox 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274857159943?fits=UKM_CCM%3A1200|UKM_Make%3AHonda|UKM_Model%3AVFR&hash=item3ffec36d07:g:TWAAAOSwmwtg4yOn


Cant see many difference just looking at it, but sure there is and 2k is a bit steep for me

 

1 hour ago, Sunde said:

What a fucking mess
Was one of my worst fears picking up this bike, the stories of the engine just dying of death with little warning. 
 Mind if i ask what generation your bike was? I am yet to hear of a 2011+ gen having this issue. 


Yes, yes it is...
I granaded an old Honda Civic 1.3 the same way only it ran for thousands of km with the oil pressure warning light slightly flashing before it locked up(kinda didnt care about that car,and afterwards got a good used engine for 40euro and swap it for 3 hours). Here I only saw oil light 5 seconds before it blew. And I was parked, what will be if it lock with 200kph?
Mine is '11 UK bike
Comming in the right moment after I've spend all my savings on this bike and a new car (present for my old man)
Thank god I have a good friend who drove for hours with his van to pick me up 3 o'clock in the morning...

212410123_1935144603310303_3866934005218851754_n.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

The clogging of the oil pump pickup is probably why it finally seized - just totally starved for oil.  Wow . . . I'd be very unhappy, as well.  At this point there's probably no more reason to investigate that engine.  The one in the UK might work - don't know - but 999 pounds on top of the price, so call it 3,000 pounds shipped.   - that's pretty rich.  Too bad more isn't known about the DCT vs manual shift cases - I can't imagine anything is interchangeable.   And getting one from a Crosstourer would be a big gamble - no telling what differences there might be, maybe none, or something electrical or software related that would prevent the swap or make it difficult - who knows.  I'm not sure that's been done anywhere before.   It's a lot of money to risk on that.  Too bad Honda is of no help, particularly when it's a known issue.  I suppose it can't hurt to ask - maybe a Honda rep knows of a used engine somewhere. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

The worst case would be the engine casing getting broken and that hasn’t happened, your gearbox is OK, so it’s realistically a reconditioned crank, bearings,  flush out oil galleries etc possibly a new conrod 

 

A lot of work but you seem to have a decent workshop and presumably the knowledge 

 

If it was me I’d jump on this and build one decent engine https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174828079637?hash=item28b490ca15:g:X80AAOSwyzJg4ynq

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Sorry to hear of your issues.

There is obviously some fault with those engines if after some hard use they grenade their bearings. I guess not many get a good thrashing so just keep going. 
 

Hope you find a replacement or a.another solution. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/10/2021 at 6:37 AM, Cogswell said:

The clogging of the oil pump pickup is probably why it finally seized - just totally starved for oil.  Wow . . . I'd be very unhappy, as well.  At this point there's probably no more reason to investigate that engine.  The one in the UK might work - don't know - but 999 pounds on top of the price, so call it 3,000 pounds shipped.   - that's pretty rich.  Too bad more isn't known about the DCT vs manual shift cases - I can't imagine anything is interchangeable.   And getting one from a Crosstourer would be a big gamble - no telling what differences there might be, maybe none, or something electrical or software related that would prevent the swap or make it difficult - who knows.  I'm not sure that's been done anywhere before.   It's a lot of money to risk on that.  Too bad Honda is of no help, particularly when it's a known issue.  I suppose it can't hurt to ask - maybe a Honda rep knows of a used engine somewhere. 


I expect if oil pump starve for oil to get oil warning light ON. I just saw it blink once or twice and that was it.
I will lurk for engine locally, after seing this in the pan before any money involved I need to drop the oil pan of the donor and see whats in it.
Luckilly there is one 2 hours away, but at this moment I'm affraid they will shock me with their price I'll get pissed off , will pile everything and set it on fire! And first want to see whats damage inside mine, maybe I'm lucky will see (if calling engine failure luck)
Local Honda dealer is a joke. They have to install me brand new engine for free while giving me a sub ride to turn over my opinion. No point even ringing them.

 

 

 

On 7/10/2021 at 4:11 PM, Thumbs said:

The worst case would be the engine casing getting broken and that hasn’t happened, your gearbox is OK, so it’s realistically a reconditioned crank, bearings,  flush out oil galleries etc possibly a new conrod 

 

A lot of work but you seem to have a decent workshop and presumably the knowledge 

 

If it was me I’d jump on this and build one decent engine https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174828079637?hash=item28b490ca15:g:X80AAOSwyzJg4ynq


Yet to get to the crank to see what failed. Really hope its just a rod bearing and only cosmetic marks on crang+rod. 
Want to save my block as engine number is required here , changing it cause add problems.
Funny... I've rode Suzuki for 3 years with nothing in mind for bike lift. 6 months ago buying Honda something in the back of my mind told me to look and get a used bike lift to service it easily.. only if I knew. I work in a cubical, doing mechanic stuff is only a hobby but enough tools for this kinda task.

If I can turn dead Civic from this to that incl engine rebuild I will be fine, just didn't need that when I'm broke and in the begining of the summer.
037679779-big (1).jpg

 

45 minutes ago, Mohawk said:

Sorry to hear of your issues.

There is obviously some fault with those engines if after some hard use they grenade their bearings. I guess not many get a good thrashing so just keep going. 
 

Hope you find a replacement or a.another solution. 


Only if I knew about soo many examples before I've made the purchase.
In one of the fb group it opened a discussion about using the right oil for my needs. I know I know, talking oil is like talking tyres. Everyone have an opinion. I ran Honda geniune 10-30 oil that says in the book, and Honda dealer sold me that. Now reading that maybe if I've put some 50s or 60s oil would be different. I don't believe Honda will not calculate pushing it to red rpms for hours and give you 10-30oil. Or maybe they are just crap engines badly made.

Finaly engine gave up and dropped. Spend last 2 days for 2 bolts and getto engine stand...

1D22E7270-866D-4802-8388-C52DB157AB6E.jpeg

2F0ECF101-2EA3-453B-AB27-583900BFFFCB.jpeg3EFE46314-EABE-40F0-987A-E6E4A5576606.thumb.jpeg.b7eac10bb5a360d10f1ff416d4e7c73a.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just checked calendar, yup still 2021. Thought is an old thread or something. 

With all the respect due to my English friends here, but buying 10 years old bike from England? Blokes, ride hard, year round, half of it in brine and do not care much for maintenance. 

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

 

Being so far down the road of dis-assembly, no harm in checking the bottom end and see what's what.  In a seized engine the block/pistons must also be junk.  If the gearbox survived intact without undue damage, then the replacement block / rotating / reciprocating assembly might be all that's needed.  Cams could also be suspect however those could probably be sourced relatively easily (IIRC there are two with the unicam system).  I wasn't too crazy about the engine that was already torn down - the pistons were out - if they did not note which cylinder each came from it would be impossible to match parts with their original location.  Keep us updated on how this progresses.  Hats off to you for digging in this far to get to the bottom of it.  :fing02:  Hang in there . . .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/12/2021 at 5:06 AM, Magneto said:

I just checked calendar, yup still 2021. Thought is an old thread or something. 

With all the respect due to my English friends here, but buying 10 years old bike from England? Blokes, ride hard, year round, half of it in brine and do not care much for maintenance. 

When talking Honda I expect to be 2031 or even 2041 and engine running like new! I have and seen many examples why you can run them troublefree. I didnt expect engine with oil to die , I kinda expect them to run with no oil for ages, they just set the bar high. Now it feel like its a M5 V10 where it eats its bearing for no reason.
For the 2nd part, where the blokes from Uk or US or Belgium Switzerland etc ride their bike hard??  No really, where?? for 15min on a track day? Cuz except the autobahn I dont see where guys ride or drive hard. Been in west europe - u go to jail if go 3km over the limit get shot on the spot for 5+
 

 

On 7/12/2021 at 5:17 AM, Cogswell said:

 

Being so far down the road of dis-assembly, no harm in checking the bottom end and see what's what.  In a seized engine the block/pistons must also be junk.  If the gearbox survived intact without undue damage, then the replacement block / rotating / reciprocating assembly might be all that's needed.  Cams could also be suspect however those could probably be sourced relatively easily (IIRC there are two with the unicam system).  I wasn't too crazy about the engine that was already torn down - the pistons were out - if they did not note which cylinder each came from it would be impossible to match parts with their original location.  Keep us updated on how this progresses.  Hats off to you for digging in this far to get to the bottom of it.  :fing02:  Hang in there . . .


Crank is out. Seeing it only need 1 pair of rod bearings for cyl 4 and some resurface job on the crank spirits are high! Afer all this are the best news I could get.
Nothing is broken/blown. Seizing caused by blown rod bearings climing on each other. There are some 'fingernail feel' on the rod and crank that need to be touch-up by a machine shop, and a pair of new bearings for the new size. Good cleaning , some gaskets and oil and she will be fine. It seems that I overreacted with granaded thing. I dont want to do the hole bottom end , the rest looks spot on conditione wise. Cylinder walls in excelent condition , no marks anywhere else. Even the heads/valves look like zero oil burning was happened.
I'll leave crankshaft with the rod at a machine shop specialist and will deal with blowing all the oil passages to be ready for assembly.

 

IMG_1590.JPG

IMG_1591.JPG

IMG_1592.JPG

IMG_1593.JPG

IMG_1594.JPG

IMG_1596.JPG

IMG_1597.JPG

IMG_1599.JPG

IMG_1601.JPG

IMG_1595.JPG

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Well, this all corroborates your original theory that it was rod knock - and that you hoped the block was ok and could be rebuilt - it can!!  Your intuition was spot on.  It's amazing that everything survived in such good condition.  It's great that you have a machine shop nearby that is able / willing to do the work.  You may be out a little money and your time - but looks like you get it back on the road.   Please keep us updated as it gets back together and running!  :fing02:


Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, VFR78 said:

How/why would that happen?

Seeing the condition of the rest of the bearing (3 main and the rest of th 3 cyl 10/10condition) I can only explain to myself that it has oil starvation on the cyl.4
Maybe that was the 'swarf issue' on the early '10 '11 models
And looking on the lybrication diagram , the only possible place that can cause oil starvation is here. Cannot explain how oil journals in the crank can clogged up right there. Still to investigate
Untitled.png

 

3 hours ago, Cogswell said:

Well, this all corroborates your original theory that it was rod knock - and that you hoped the block was ok and could be rebuilt - it can!!  Your intuition was spot on.  It's amazing that everything survived in such good condition.  It's great that you have a machine shop nearby that is able / willing to do the work.  You may be out a little money and your time - but looks like you get it back on the road.   Please keep us updated as it gets back together and running!  :fing02:


Cheers


Yes! All the rest looks like its a brand new. I could now say this is a 200k+km engine no doubt except for that cyl4 rod bearing not having enough oil... There are planty of engine machine shops arround, lets hope I find one willing to deal with my case. Thank you for the support again. Really need that atm.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Thanks for the explanation. It’s unfortunate you copped this, but at least you have the expertise to attempt to manage it. I think I’d probably go and hide in a corner, if it happened to my bike. I seem to remember that Honda car motors, 20 or 30 years ago, needed high detergent Honda specific oils,to keep all the oil galleries clear, because they were very narrow. Thanks again for keeping us posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Perhaps the bearing was defective from manufacture, and the little cleat that is supposed to keep it from spinning was not formed 100% correctly. Over time it "walked" and caused excessive heat, eventually rotating and climbing on the other half. Or could have been the swarf/chip issue noted in some UK bikes. 

 

Was the bike filled with 10-30, or 10-40? My wife has the ecodiesel version of the 1500 Ram that had a massive recall in 2014-17. Hers is an '18 and the manual specifies 5-40 oil, whereas the earlier versions all specified 5-30. The failures rates have since dropped significantly, and Dodge issued a TSB for the oil weight. My VFR has a decal on the side specifying 10-30 oil, but the manual shows a range of oils for different temps. After the first oil change I switched to 10-40 and noticed a much quieter engine, less notchy shifting, and less clutch basket feel through the clutch lever. 

 

Not trying to start an oil thread, but as big as the engine is, with a large transmission, I feel much more protected with the 40 weight.

 

Good luck with getting it fixed, and if you need pics of the shop manual just PM me - the online version has black blobby images with no clarity.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Looks like there are 5 bearing sizes to choose from, and a new rod is about $180 from partzilla...

Bearings.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The oil I've put is Honda 10-30 . After all of this If I manage to put the bike together I will have a good thinking what oil to choose next. Maybe go again with 30 , or try 40 or even go some 'racing' 50s or 60s. dunno.
IMG_1288.JPG


I've visited a machine shop. And there are good and bad news. Good news are that its doable , crank can be cut and it will be fine. The rod is fine. The rest of the crank is excelent just need a polish .They will do the job quick and cheap. . The bad news is that for them to be sure they will get all of the crank marks out the size need to be dropped from 41.500 to 41.000 and they cannot assist with bearings. If I manage to find bearings that size they will do it and I'll be fine. Seing now the variants of bearing for that engine, the one that I need do not exist. They are roughly within 41.480 - 41.500 specs. Before even look at it the machine guy told me that the bearing for this go with .005 step and its bad news for me.
So options are to visit every bearing shop arround and find one that fit /unlikely/ , check online for one /impossible/ , get a new crank+bearing /expensive/ or get a used engine...

My crankshaft is stampted with C 2 . No index on the conrods(?) and my bearing color on all is RED(?). Dont know whats happen there
Capture1.JPG

I will plastigauge the good bearings to see what my tolerance are atm and if they are within the specs.
So its probably what you say: defective bearing that finaly gave up


p.s. YES PLEASE! I do have only the 'dark' version of the service manual only. I'll hit you with a PM if you can assist with better version.

Machine guy has no explanation why the bearing fail. Oil starvation was out of the question. No existing swarf could cause that - oil journals there are massive and clean of any rubbish . He mention that due to extreme streess cap bolts might got lossen , but we rejected that after I've told him that I found no difference then the other when un do all of the bolts.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

For the cause of failure, there's an elephant in the room here...  Your opening statements suggest you're hard on your machine.  I think you should question the wisdom of going 250+ for 150km... anything stressed to the limits for sustained periods is just asking for something to give up.

 

As for your oil choice, I wouldn't go high viscosity, you want max flow.... stick to 10W30 or 10W40 IMHO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

 

7 hours ago, ggtod said:

The oil I've put is Honda 10-30 . After all of this If I manage to put the bike together I will have a good thinking what oil to choose next. Maybe go again with 30 , or try 40 or even go some 'racing' 50s or 60s. dunno.
IMG_1288.JPG


I've visited a machine shop. And there are good and bad news. Good news are that its doable , crank can be cut and it will be fine. The rod is fine. The rest of the crank is excelent just need a polish .They will do the job quick and cheap. . The bad news is that for them to be sure they will get all of the crank marks out the size need to be dropped from 41.500 to 41.000 and they cannot assist with bearings. If I manage to find bearings that size they will do it and I'll be fine. Seing now the variants of bearing for that engine, the one that I need do not exist. They are roughly within 41.480 - 41.500 specs. Before even look at it the machine guy told me that the bearing for this go with .005 step and its bad news for me.
So options are to visit every bearing shop arround and find one that fit /unlikely/ , check online for one /impossible/ , get a new crank+bearing /expensive/ or get a used engine...

My crankshaft is stampted with C 2 . No index on the conrods(?) and my bearing color on all is RED(?). Dont know whats happen there
Capture1.JPG

I will plastigauge the good bearings to see what my tolerance are atm and if they are within the specs.
So its probably what you say: defective bearing that finaly gave up


p.s. YES PLEASE! I do have only the 'dark' version of the service manual only. I'll hit you with a PM if you can assist with better version.

Machine guy has no explanation why the bearing fail. Oil starvation was out of the question. No existing swarf could cause that - oil journals there are massive and clean of any rubbish . He mention that due to extreme streess cap bolts might got lossen , but we rejected that after I've told him that I found no difference then the other when un do all of the bolts.

 

 

Maybe check this out - it looks to be right in your back yard . . . you could probably arrange to look at it in person. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284210910085?hash=item422c4a5385:g:rCIAAOSwkelewPFY

 

But again - parts from a Crosstourer . . . similarities?  Plenty.  Differences?  Who knows.  Probably the only way to be sure would be to take your crank along and place it side by side with the other one - count splines on the crank ends, measure everything and use a micrometer on the journals.  If this is a match, you could pick it up and avoid having your existing crank machined - probably just have the machinist polish the journals and re-fit standard bearings.  Maybe worth checking out. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, raYzerman said:

For the cause of failure, there's an elephant in the room here...  Your opening statements suggest you're hard on your machine.  I think you should question the wisdom of going 250+ for 150km... anything stressed to the limits for sustained periods is just asking for something to give up.

 

As for your oil choice, I wouldn't go high viscosity, you want max flow.... stick to 10W30 or 10W40 IMHO.



Yep. I admit it could be all my fault pushing 10yo bike with 50k km to the limit in 30+degrees. I can add to this that the bike seems kinda neglected. Or at least the state of the air filter says that. BUT! I expect nothing else from a Honda engine.Well not anymore tho.
 I drove 25yo civic flatout for 5 hours just time for an oil change and manage to drain 40ml, yes cup of coffee .It ran years after that. Or Ed March from utube who rode his supercup for 1500km+ with no oil pump. Or the carwow video where they run 9min on the limiter civic with no oil. etc etc. All Honda guys arround me were thats impossible. And I dont ride hard 95% of the time.
I'll leave headscraching the oil choice for later. But you are right. Will be 10-30 or 40
Was hard on my previous bike for 3-4 year, it only eat some oil and never complain.  I know that 650 V2 Suzuki engine is famous for its reliability was expecting the same for any honda engine.
 

 

2 hours ago, Cogswell said:

 

 

Maybe check this out - it looks to be right in your back yard . . . you could probably arrange to look at it in person. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284210910085?hash=item422c4a5385:g:rCIAAOSwkelewPFY

 

But again - parts from a Crosstourer . . . similarities?  Plenty.  Differences?  Who knows.  Probably the only way to be sure would be to take your crank along and place it side by side with the other one - count splines on the crank ends, measure everything and use a micrometer on the journals.  If this is a match, you could pick it up and avoid having your existing crank machined - probably just have the machinist polish the journals and re-fit standard bearings.  Maybe worth checking out. 

 

 



Yep, I know that Mario guy. I used to visit his used motorcycle showroom and his junkyard looking for a DCT module for my CTX700. He is a good guy willing to help, but his target is 'west' chaps and prices are eyewatering for my brokeass. Already called him if I can compare both cranks. In fact that machine shop is next door to him , I'm sure I could take it for a check with profesionals before purchase it. Its good option as well. This bike will either run again Or I will set it on fire 😄

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

If that crank is that close to you,  in my humble opinion the universe is sending you a message  . . . just sayin'.  :smile:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • ggtod changed the title to Engine GRANADED left stranded in the middle of nowhere -=SOLVED!=-

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.