Member Contributer Grum Posted July 6, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted July 6, 2021 Great job mate, excellent photos. The connector for the Red/White wire is the issue, looks burnt, probably best to replace that spade connector. OR you can pop the spade connector out by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver or similar in from the front to release the retaining prong while pulling rearward on the wire. You could then properly clean and squeeze the spade to give it better contact tension. At least you now know what and where the fault is. Well done, no need to take it to a garage. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirfaffalot Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 Thanks so very much for your help mate. A true gentleman. And I’ve learned a thing or three. Top work 👍 Cheers 🍺 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbear Posted July 6, 2021 Share Posted July 6, 2021 17 hours ago, Grum said: Sorry Kbear, absolutely not! If the switch is not making contact then where is the current draw, where could the voltage drop be? Most certainly dirt and crap on switches causes poor contact and voltage drop across the switch, but not voltage drop back at the supply! The fact that the voltage at the fuse drops when pressing the switch means it is trying to work correctly in sending power to the horn. Its this small load be it the Horn or his Turn Relay that is killing the supply voltage. If when pressing the horn button to a known good horn and there are no shorts on power line ( evident by the fuse not blowing ) and the voltage at the fuse itself drops to near zero then there has to be a fault between the fuse and the ignition switch. Thank you Grum! I like your explanation! Certainly allows me to understand the issue far better than I did. 9 hours ago, Sirfaffalot said: Found the 4 pin plug. It had a bit of gunk in it so cleaned it out with WD40 and a white cloth. Pretty grubby!! Re-connected. Then noticed on the diagram a hazard switch next to it. Did the same with that too. Ignition on - horn pressed…. WORKS!!!!!!!! Replaced the relay. nose cone not yet replaced. Hazard lights rear test….. WORKS!!!!! (Normal speed) Indicator lights test….. WORKS!!!! (although flashing faster than normal speed). Thank goodness you solved that problem. I hate electrical gremlins. Always seem to cook my brain and mess up my day(s). Good for you. I'm tellin' ya dirt and grim can really do a number on electrical connections! Been there done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 7, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted July 7, 2021 5 hours ago, Kbear said: Thank you Grum! I like your explanation! Certainly allows me to understand the issue far better than I did. Its a pleasure Kbear, glad the info made sense and helped you out. No wonder its called Electrickery! The OP's situation was a classic example of Voltage Drop, virtually always caused by a bad high resistance joint somewhere. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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