Mikus11 Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 Things appear to have gone from bad to worse. Now the headlights have died and the fuel pump won't run. I noticed yesterday that the pump did not cycle when I first tried the ignition but then it came to life. The lights appear to be a new issue. All I have done today is to take apart the orange ground block again to have another look at it. I even took some of the pins out of the orange housing and I don't see any corrosion in the crimps. However, I checked resistance to the battery -ve and some had no continuity at all Should all these grounds be alive all the time or are some of them switched? This is really frustrating!!!! Update main 30A fuse under seat was the no light/pump culprit. Previous owner really went to town with dielectric grease in the connector I think the fuse just wasn't making a good connection. OK so 1 step forward, 2 steps back, 1 step forward LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted June 20, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted June 20, 2021 So Main Fuse B 30amp, the first thing mentioned to check, wasn't in good shape after all! This could well be the root cause of your issues. Bit of a shame not properly checking it to start with, would have saved you a lot of time and effort! Get Main Fuse B Properly Sorted. Then go ride! All those grounds in the orange block should All be at Ground, with the buss bar inserted. There are wires comming into the block seeking a ground for various devices, then there will be wires(possibly the two slightly thicker gauge ones) that actually go to your frame ground. The buss bar arrangement connects all wires together. With the buss bar removed and probing each wire with your ohm meter you will be able to determine which wire or wires are the actual Grounds. If your Ground Block looks ok like you're saying! Just give it a good coating of Ox-Gard on all the pins then button it up, as you appear to have discovered a main fuse issue! For Info - The best solution is to cut the block from the wires and solder all wires together. Sleeve or tape the bundle and you'll never have issues with those grounds again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikus11 Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 Well to be fair it was main fuse B was replaced fairly recently and I had no reason to suspect it. Not sure if I should just try to clean it up (literally packed with dielectric grease or vaseline) or cut out and replace. For whatever reason it completely quit while I was fiddling with the other stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted June 21, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2021 Di-electric grease is silicone and is an insulator. I would definitely get all that cleaned out, use some contact cleaner to get it spotless and then treat with Oxgard. If you go the replacement route, I would be sure the replacement has wiring as large or larger than the OEM wiring. Some of the auto parts store fuse holders look fine, but the wiring is not up to the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikus11 Posted July 8, 2021 Author Share Posted July 8, 2021 thanks again all - have been riding the bike for a couple of weeks and so far so good. Cleaned out all that goop, ox gard and a new fuse (old looked a little melted). Checked it after each ride its not getting hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 8, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted July 8, 2021 32 minutes ago, Mikus11 said: thanks again all - have been riding the bike for a couple of weeks and so far so good. Cleaned out all that goop, ox gard and a new fuse (old looked a little melted). Checked it after each ride its not getting hot. Good job Mikus11. Glad its running reliably and thanks for the update. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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