Member Contributer Grum Posted May 11, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2021 5 hours ago, Mohawk said: I did a CoP swap on another bike & it worked great for about 5 miles, then lost power & stopped. Strangely diagnosing the fault, showed good spark, fuel & compression. In frustration I swapped back to the original coils & the fault went away. The reason I tell this story is to show what appears to be correct may not be. So on the basis that everything else appears normal, I'd be inclined to follow the ignition system/ecu. If all parts tested OK by swapping then the fault must lie in the control signal system. Intermittent firing stinks of poor electrical connectivity. Check all cables related to cylinder 2 & if they test good then beg borrow or steal an ecu to swap with yours. The only other thing that may cause no ignition would be a very poor AFR, possible with a bad air leak. My money is on faulty cable. I'd also check the earth multiblock in the harness under left side if tail fairing near the reg/rectifier. Mine looked great when I unwrapped it, but when I cut it open half the earth cables were badly corroded. I cut them all out, unsheathed the ends, splayed & cleaned all strands, then intertwined all earths & soldered them together. The strange electrical issues I had experienced went away 😀 Further to Mohawks good suggestion is to confirm you have a solid 12v feeding coil 2 on the Black/White wire. The ECM switches the Ground side of all four coils. Make sure you have good continuity of the Yellow/White wire (coil 2) back to the ECM Black Connector at A21. A faulty Ground for the Sparks you would suspect it would effect all of them, however, make sure All the ECM Grounds are good and bonded back to the battery negative terminal. Every Green and Green/Pink wire at the ECM should be a Ground make sure these are good. Inspect both ECM plugs and sockets for any sign of corrosion. As Madfox suggests, inspect the 10p connector for any corrosion that may affect your injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Madfox Posted May 11, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2021 Another thought occurred to me, check the big orange grounding block... I removed the block connector and soldered my grounding wires together, then grounded that bundle of wires to the frame directly. This shows how bad that can get Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted May 11, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2021 39 minutes ago, Madfox said: Had to double check, it was the Black and white wire. So the grounding wire for the injectors and pair valve solenoid. It would do weird things similar to the 3 or 3.5 cylinder power description before eventually getting bad enough that it went into limp mode and threw FI codes at me. All problems disappeared when I cleaned it out Thanks for that. The Black/White wire is the main 12v power for the Injectors and the Flapper Solenoid. The ECM takes care of the Ground controlling side of these devices. No wonder you had Injector issues, Good Find. PAIR valve wiring doesn't go through that 10P connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Madfox Posted May 11, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Grum said: Thanks for that. The Black/White wire is the main 12v power for the Injectors and the Flapper Solenoid. The ECM takes care of the Ground controlling side of these devices. No wonder you had Injector issues, Good Find. PAIR valve wiring doesn't go through that 10P connector. Whoops meant the flapper valve solenoid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexanderfitu Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 So, did some digging into the loom. All ground blocks are A OK, Main injector harness connector also no issues. I did find this though: Looks like the remains of an old alarm system/immobiliser. Unfortunately I did not have time to redo all the connections. I did trace them and one from the camshaft sensor (pulse generator) so may be on to something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelF Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 An easy test is to disable the injection and get it running with petrol squirted into the throttles. If it runs on all 4 this way, you know where to look for your issue. However you need to be sure #2 is not fouled when you try this or the test is invalid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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