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Bike cranks, won't fire up, NO codes, NO FI, full tank, no vapor lock.


zupatun

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Checked codes even no FI came on.  Started yesterday...started intermittent...try 2 times, shut off, fired up the third. Rode it a mile or two, came home shut off, restarted, shut off, no joy.

 

Let it sit, no joy, turned off, started up.  Rode it another mile...quit in a turn one mile from driveway. Pulled over, no joy, let sit 5 min...starts up. Ride home, park, now it won't start at all...tried 5 times charged battery, tried again, no joy.

 

Turn on bike and I hear the fuel cut relay (under right rear cowl) clicking on and off...

 

(THIS JUST IN!!!) Fuel pump is not cycling!

 

Matt Rot

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First thing is to check your fuel pump electrical connector for good contact, make sure its clean and making good electrical contact.

You want to measure voltage at the connector probing both connections Brown wire Positive, Green wire Negative. Make sure you are seeing 12v for a few seconds at every ignition switch On or make and break of the Kill Switch (ignition on). If not you'll need to do some checks around the Fuel Cut Relay etc.

Make sure the Green wire is well Grounded, back to the battery negative terminal.

 

You could use a couple of test leads from your battery to the fuel pump making sure you hear the pump run every time you make the connection, this will isolate an intermittent pump.

 

Service manual Section 5-58 explains fuel pump testing.

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Yeah, everything Grum said!

 

Basically answer these questions:

 

1. is power going into fuel-pump relay?

2. is power going out of fuel-pump relay?

3. is power from fuel-pump relay making it to fuel-pump?
4. how would you know if any of above is true or false???

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Getting power to the fuel pump. All relays check good. No voltage at pump connector with kill switch...

 

Will put some power to the pump next...I drained the tank and took the fuel pump out. Buddy has a spare, so I will swap them and check.

 

Thanks.

 

Matt

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How does bike die when you're riding?

 

1. suddenly like turning off light switch

2. gradual sputter and die in 4-5 sec.

 

 

that'll help narrow down areas to examine

 

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The bike, originally, was intermittently not starting.  Then, after one instance, the bike shut down mid corner (same day).  

 

1. I checked starter solenoid, fuel cut solenoid, per the manual with my DM--apply 12V across two contacts--get beep across the others with my DMM (set in diode check)manual says I should see continuity and I do.

2. fuses (FI, bank angle, lights, fan, main et al).

3. Fuel tank/fuel pump plug had voltage to it and stopped when fuel cut switch fires.

4. No spark at spark plugs but I have 12VDC at all the coils.

5. Turn on bike, NO fuel pump cycling, neutral light and FI light on.  after a few seconds Fuel cut relay starts clicking twice a second or so, hit starter , no joy.

6. IF I unplug the Fuel pump, neutral light on, FI light lights for a few sec and turns off (hear fuel cut relay click), hit starter, no joy.

7. checked bank angle sensor (checks OK).

8. Friend sent me a fuel pump assy...put it in and No joy, same as usual.

Friend, Mapmaster, says to check all my ground leads (starting with Fuel Pump and cycling with Fuel cut soleniod, Engine stop solenoid and bank angle sensor for intermittent ground or high resistance (higher than an ohm or two).

9. I decide to pull the solenoids and re-check the grounds (look good low ohms) and decide to re-test them with power to the solenoids (not just the grounds).

 put 12V across a spare solenoid and closed contact resistance is 0.6ohm.  Pull Fuel Cut Relay, apply 12V to fuel cut relay solenoid and measure contacts 0.5ohm.  Pull Engine Stop Relay, apply 12V to relay, measure across contacts -- 10 ohms!  it's ONLY 10 ohms...a pittance of resistance in the ignition/run circuit...

10. Swap out known good relay (0.5ohm) for suspect Engine Stop relay...turn on ignition, neutral light, fuel pump cycles, shuts off, hit starter, bike starts!

 

11.  THROW BAD RELAY in TRASH.  Shut bike off, start again!

The manual does NOT say to measure the ohms of the relay--JUST look for "continuity"...so thanks MapMaster for asking me to look at ground for high resistance...or I wouldn't have thought of looking at the resistance of the close poles on the relays!

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Good to see you eventually found the fault, 10ohms across your ESR contacts is Very significant indeed certainly not " a pittance of resistance in the ignition/run circuit... " The ESR supplies ALL your EFI stuff and this will definitely draw a good few amps, so 10 ohms at the ESR will kill your EFI power. The first thing you'll notice with a dead bike will be the Fuel Pump not priming and most likely the Fi Light fully ON.

 

Something to remember all 4 relays, FCR, ESR, High Beam and Low Beam are the same type. Using the Hi Beam relay for any other postion can be handy for fault finding or getting you out of trouble out on the road.

 

Continuity checking can be vague because in buzzer mode you might get the buzzer sounding with up to 100ohms in the circuit depening on your meter, however, even in buzzer mode your meter will still display resistance. Continuity does mean effectively Zero Ohms.

 

Bit of a shame you went to all the trouble of replacing the Fuel Pump.

Hope you have no further issues.

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