Jump to content

Heating wires


Robertas

Recommended Posts

Hello group. I've replaced stock RR to the genuine shindigen FH020AA. Voltage stays 14.1V-14.5V. No probs there. But what I found that my tree wires from stator getting hot.. Is this normal? It is hot but not to hot to touch.and Thats after 2 mins of running on idle. I've checked continuity on RR as well as Stator all good. Grounding is good. What could cause that? Battery also fresh one. Checked amp draw with clamp meter while idling 15 to 17 amps.Wire gauge is 12 awg.Turning high beams amp draw is 23 amps. Inline 30A fuse is getting super hot.  Maybe it is normal I don't know never touched these wires before mod. So if there is anyone with some quality info please give me a message. 
Thank you a lot.
( All connections are clean, soldering job also good).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Robertas changed the title to Heating wires
  • Member Contributer

Which fuse are you saying is super hot? Is it Main Fuse A 30amp the one thats in your Starter Relay OR is it Main Fuse B 30amp next to your Starter Relay?

 

Where exactly are you measuring your current draw?

 

Does your bike have the 4ea 55watt headlight globes, this alone will draw around 18amps with Hi Beam selected? If so then and additional 5 amps (Total of 23amps with high beam selected) for everything else doesn't sound excessive.

 

Do you have any other added electrical accessories?

 

The Stator is in a very hot environment there is probably heat conduction along the copper wires and the wires are also channelled through the engine Vee section, another hot area, apart from the normal current flow that could also warm the wires.

The junction connection for the three yellow wires to the R/R is a known weak spot causing high resistance connection and burn ups.

 

Have a very close look at the state of Main Fuse B 30amp. This fuse and its wiring can suffer badly from poor connections and high resistance contacts. There should be no additional loads added to Main Fuse B as this is a dedicated power source for all your critical EFI stuff. Also check for any poor contact and discoloration of Main Fuse A.

 

Attached shows how bad Main Fuse B can get.

 

 

 

EF79D2E6-8E27-4F00-87F3-C99F83E6BE32.thumb.jpeg.09d26801311b53185228c34b60382593.jpeg.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The RR is soldered directly to stator yellow wires. There are no connectors between stator and RR. From the RR there are two wires routed directly to the battery. On the positive wire is inline fuse 30A. That fuse is getting super hot. Original fuse from your photo is ok. Not hot at all. I've checked amp draw on the positive lead from RR and there were readings that I've mentioned before. 

I'm running stock light bulbs and no other accessories.

It is a hot environment I do agree but wires getting hot way before the engine warms up. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Ok so you are saying you have another 30amp fuse in the positive R/R output wire.

With the bike running that fuse will be carrying all the load as well as battery charging. No wonder its hot, its running very close to maximum current at 23amps, not much of a saftey margin.

Suggest a higher rated fuse and possibly a slightly larger gauge wire if you can fit it.

23amps doesn't sound excessive given 18 of those amps are for your lighting alone when High Beam is selected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Reason stator-wires are hot is that regulator run stator at 100% full-capacity full-time. Power-division after regulator may vary, such as 25/75%-ground on low-beams or 50/50%-ground on high-beams, but stator doesn't know that.

 

If you want to get more efficient use out of stator, you'll want series-regulator such as SH775 or SH847. Then, only required-power is sucked from stator, 25/0%-ground on low-beams or 50/0% on high-beams. Stator runs much, much cooler and doesn't get burnt over time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
49 minutes ago, DannoXYZ said:

Reason stator-wires are hot is that regulator run stator at 100% full-capacity full-time. Power-division after regulator may vary, such as 25/75%-ground on low-beams or 50/50%-ground on high-beams, but stator doesn't know that.

 

If you want to get more efficient use out of stator, you'll want series-regulator such as SH775 or SH847. Then, only required-power is sucked from stator, 25/0%-ground on low-beams or 50/0% on high-beams. Stator runs much, much cooler and doesn't get burnt over time.

 

I'd love to hear opinions or user reviews about the 775's viability on our bikes.  The author in the video is the proprietor of Roadstercycle that sells the FH020 and SH847 kits.  At the 11:20 mark in the video he talks about the 775.  Paraphrasing, he maintains that while the same concept as the 847, between 8,000 and 9,000 rpm it "gets flaky" and he prefers the 847.  So would I, however on 6th gens fitment is tight and while doable, the 775 has a smaller footprint.  Even though I don't spend a ton of time at 9,000 or above (like doing a lot of track days), it definitely sees it from time to time on my rides, so that might be a consideration with the 775. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXbZZZWLtzY

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm. I've thought that FH020AA is very good replacement. So in the end I'm using 50 amp inline fuse. Heating gone

 But tree wires to the RR still getting warm. So I guess that is how it is. I'll be monitoring wires for a while and if it stays in light warm condition I'll be keeping them as it is. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Cogswell said:

 

I'd love to hear opinions or user reviews about the 775's viability on our bikes.  The author in the video is the proprietor of Roadstercycle that sells the FH020 and SH847 kits.  At the 11:20 mark in the video he talks about the 775.  Paraphrasing, he maintains that while the same concept as the 847, between 8,000 and 9,000 rpm it "gets flaky" and he prefers the 847.  So would I, however on 6th gens fitment is tight and while doable, the 775 has a smaller footprint.  Even though I don't spend a ton of time at 9,000 or above (like doing a lot of track days), it definitely sees it from time to time on my rides, so that might be a consideration with the 775. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXbZZZWLtzY

That video explains very well. So probably I'll be swapping for Sh487

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
35 minutes ago, Robertas said:

Hmm. I've thought that FH020AA is very good replacement. So in the end I'm using 50 amp inline fuse. Heating gone

 But tree wires to the RR still getting warm. So I guess that is how it is. I'll be monitoring wires for a while and if it stays in light warm condition I'll be keeping them as it is. 

Glad you have it sorted. The FH020AA is a shunt type Regulator but it still is a great improvement over the original. Being MOSFET technology as opposed to SCR, it will run cooler and have a more stable output voltage.

The SH847 is a series type Regulator a lot more expensive but the most efficient and only the current needed for the load is drawn from the Stator making it run cooler and lasting a lot longer.

With a shunt type Regulator it is normal for the 3 stator output wires to be warm, but not melting hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.