masterkush Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 Bike 'died' - first indicators/signal lights then main lights and engine. Replaced battery, tested rectifier/regulator, tested alternator all OK. Tested for drain and it read 19mA for a a second then dropped quickly to 2.4mA which is above stated spec of 1.2mA. Repeated the test a few times and it did exactly the same each time if I gave it a minute - if I tested it again within a second or two it didn't show 19mA just the 2.4mA. Disconnected heated handlebar grips - (which don't work and just flash lowest value light no matter how many times you press the button) - no difference. Is this just the normal drain for my 3rd party immobilizer alarm? Was it just a failed battery and should I stop worrying? I teach and have a 20 mile commute to school so don't want to strand myself - teachers can't be late - I've also topped out my electrical knowledge as might be obvious. Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magneto Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 It’s not a short for sure. We reserve the term for higher current flow. We are looking if you have parasitic draw, I would say not. That initial jump after connecting tester in series is due to instrument cluster waking up. I would not worry about 2.4 mA draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted April 14, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted April 14, 2021 Batteries don't last forever so it could be just a normal ageing failure of your battery, nothing uncommon with that. And you've confirmed the R/R is ok. Have you verified your charging voltage with the new battery fitted, you should be seeing around 13.5 to 14.5v engine running? Agree with Magneto, you don't have a short, that would hopefully take out one of your main 30amp fuses if you did, or any of the other sub fuses. With Ignition Off, the only current draw is for your instrument panel clock. The 2.4ma (twice the maximum allowable) you are reading must surely be for the added alarm system and that certainly doesn't sound excessive. You could easily confirm this by disconnecting the alarm power, might simply have a fuse you could remove then recheck your leakage current. You do need to be consciously aware that by adding any unswitched device like your alarm will mean your battery will tend to discharge at slightly greater rate in between rides. So, regular riding or a good battery charger/maintainer is important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterkush Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 Thanks guys REALY appreciated!!!! I stupidly just end up getting stressed with anything mechanical or electrical and pretending it doesn't exist so have left the bike in the garage for three months. I must kick myself out of that habit. Non of you know how to fix a 3D printer by any chance as it's been a year since I could bare looking at it? LOL Seriously - Thanks 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.