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2002 vs 2004+ 6th Gen Ignition Key Switch and Cable?


ShipFixer
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Asking the question here so it's obvious by title!  I see from Google that other people have struggled with a deteriorated ignition key switch or cable.  Does anyone know or have an idea what the changes are from the 2002-2003 switch/cable to 2004+  This is a US, non-HISS equipped bike.  I don't think HISS was added in 2004 and beyond on US bikes?

 

I can't find photos of both to compare and the drawing looks identical.  So I'm hoping they really are the same part and ordered one.  If nothing else, can at least use the four-line cable and splice it into the old switch to more permanently repair it from the attempted-hotwire in 2003 😄

 

Overall troubleshooting effort here:

 

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1 hour ago, ShipFixer said:

Asking the question here so it's obvious by title!  I see from Google that other people have struggled with a deteriorated ignition key switch or cable.  Does anyone know or have an idea what the changes are from the 2002-2003 switch/cable to 2004+  This is a US, non-HISS equipped bike.  I don't think HISS was added in 2004 and beyond on US bikes?

 

I can't find photos of both to compare and the drawing looks identical.  So I'm hoping they really are the same part and ordered one.  If nothing else, can at least use the four-line cable and splice it into the old switch to more permanently repair it from the attempted-hotwire in 2003 😄

 

Overall troubleshooting effort here:

 

 

My U.S. '08 is non-HISS.  I believe that to be the case on all US 6th gens.  Wish I could be of more help.  Best of luck with it.

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

 

My U.S. '08 is non-HISS.  I believe that to be the case on all US 6th gens.  Wish I could be of more help.  Best of luck with it.

 

 

That's the primary confirmation I was looking for, thanks! 😄 I did find a photo of the newer part number, and it definitely looks like the one I've got now.

 

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Just to wrap this specific question up, the ignition key can be completely taken apart, cleaned up, and re-assembled.  It works like a champ after cleaning up all of the contacts inside with isopropyl alcohol...did not need to replace the cable after all.  Will probably cancel my incoming order for the 2004+ switch and cable.

 

It's a little bit of a pain to get at the Torx T40 bolts at the bottom to get it out, but I was able to do it without removing the triple clamp, handlebars, etc.  I used a long-ish 3/8 inch ratchet with a pivoting head so I could angle the handle up out of the body work, and slowly got it out.  There are three security-keyed Torx screws holding the actual switch to the tumbler.  Once those are out and you have the switch and cable free of the tumbler, it's pretty easy to pry the plastic base out of the housing along with all of the switch internals.  Clean it up, pop it all back together, and re-install.  

 

 

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