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2001 electrical dead


Jlewis50

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Still stumped on my 2001. It cranks and runs but has ZERO electrical light function. No lights or instruments. The tach and speedometer are dead. 
All the safety overrides function properly, clutch And side stand.

This is a new problem that developed after I accidentally grounded the instrument cluster to the frame checking a bad LCD. Dummy me didn’t have the instruments offs when I was checking the cluster with a probe.

All fuses are good and I’ve checked the continuity on the grounds to the rear lights and they are they are good. Isabel no power to these lights either.
I haven’t had a chance to check the grounds to every light nor relay. 

Of course every electrical wire is taped tight from the factory. 

I was thinking maybe the cluster got fried from the accidental grounding and maybe short out the entire system? I’m going to disconnect the 2 multi wire leads to the cluster amd see what happens. It’s as if the fuses are blown.

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Wish you'd kept this under your original topic! No need to have another thread, info can get lost with multiple threads.

 

Don't make assumptions that you think its a "relay fault" or the short has taken out "the entire system". The fact your bike starts and runs means the vast majority of your electrical system is fine.

 

Any short situation will normally take out a fuse - That's what they are there for, to protect the wiring.

 

Make simple voltage and ground measurements to find the fault.

 

Are you absolutely sure All fuses are Good? Particularly Fuse G 10amp? Have you physically measured it?

All the lights plus the speedo, speed sensor, tacho and LCD are either powered OR controlled by Fuse G. Do you have 12v power at this Fuse, and both sides of it?

 

Failing the Fuse check. Concentrate on one system, eg the Headlights. Work out why these are not working!

 

Locate both Hi and Lo beam relays. With ignition to on and lo beam selected. Do you have 12v measured at the White wire of the lo beam relay, and 12v at the Black/Red wire? And if the Green wire has a good ground you should hear the relay energize. This transfers the 12v from the Black/Red wire to the White/Black wire to light up your lo beams.

If you don't have 12v on the White wire follow it back to its source. Through the dimmer switch to the Blue/White wire, through to the engine starter switch to the Brown/Blue wire to Fuse G 10amp.

The Black/Red from the lo beam relay goes straight to Fuse F 20amp headlight power.

If the Grounds and Power are there for the headlights, then they should be working!

 

Use your wiring diagram and voltmeter to check the above. Hopefully this will highlight a common fault.

 

Let's know how you get on.

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That's a good point - I once had a fuse I assumed was good.  Pulled it, visually inspected it, seemed fine.  Still nothing.  Kept scratching my head wondering what was wrong.  Finally pulled the fuse again, set the meter on continuity and bridged the fuse - it failed.  Put in a new fuse, and voila! - things were working again. 

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On 2/27/2021 at 9:37 PM, Jlewis50 said:

I’ve checked every fuse and they have continuity.  A also even replaced them with a know good fuse. 

Then go to plan B and work through fault finding the headlights as suggested this should find where your fault is.

 

Think you should first verify you have 12v at both sides of Fuse G. Black meter lead to the Battery Negative, Red meter lead probing the two small test points on top of the fuse.

 

Keep us posted.

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Wanted to update everyone on my bike. I retraced my steps and refocused efforts on the fuse box area. I cleaned it up and addressed some confusion in the fuse box. I replaced fuse 4 again and now it’s works. Appreciate everyone’s advice on keeping things straight.  
 

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15 minutes ago, Jlewis50 said:

Wanted to update everyone on my bike. I retraced my steps and refocused efforts on the fuse box area. I cleaned it up and addressed some confusion in the fuse box. I replaced fuse 4 again and now it’s works. Appreciate everyone’s advice on keeping things straight.  
 

Thats good news. Glad it was a simple fix.

I assume your fuse 4 is actually Fuse G 10amp. The one mentioned a few times!

Strange you said you had checked and replaced every fuse!

Enjoy your ride. :wheel:

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only way to know for sure fuse is good is to measure it.

uc?export=download&id=1H3Rshme21xzn8rDCz

 

Even brand-new fuses must be tested. Due to ever lower quality of aftermarket parts, you can't assume brand-new out-of-box part is any good. Must test and measure before using to determine if they are good or bad.

 

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Maxi type fuses have opening at the top to access with the probe and no meter but actually test light works best. Initial continuity inspection  may be useful but voltage availability with fuse installed  is gold. Often fuse box terminals are affected and this tests them as installed. 

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Yup, measuring fuse in-place will also test fuse-sockets as well. But... be sure to measure both input AND output legs of fuses. Otherwise you'll trick yourself into thinking fuse is fine.

 

uc?export=download&id=1zq_EW4V4hY4G5UPzT

 

uc?export=download&id=1TgPyyeeQ0gdikaDcb

 

I had sporadic starting issues on my commuter. Pulled fuse and found PO had done this!!! :angry:

 

uc?export=download&id=1uzIOHeVOPFazG0kBN

 

Over time, rain & corrosion insulated wire-wrap from fuse-terminal and it randomly refused to start... I think Einstein said it best...

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On 2/27/2021 at 10:08 PM, Grum said:

Think you should first verify you have 12v at both sides of Fuse G. Black meter lead to the Battery Negative, Red meter lead probing the two small test points on top of the fuse

And that's exactly why I mentioned this twice to the OP!

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