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Riddle me this... Front wheel removal.


Sp00ks

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Ok, so I'm just getting back into bikes. I need a new front tire so I need to remove the front wheel off the VFR so I can take it to the shop. 

 

I have no lift, etc. I'm open for suggestions. The rear stand puts the weight on the front. How can I get this front wheel off without a lift. I have floor jacks, jack stands etc. 

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  • Sp00ks changed the title to Riddle me this... Front wheel removal.
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Sometimes you can put the bike on the centerstand, and put a dumbell on the pasenger seat and the front wheel will come off the ground. A bit nerve racking so its better with the fairings off, then put a jack under the headers. 

 

You might consider grabbing one of these.... 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K30NBOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Of course though, a real motorcycle front stand is the best way... :cool:

 

I probably have 3 or 4 different stands for whatever job comes along.. 

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Easy enough to jack up the 800 on the headers, but I do wonder about the load that places on the exhaust gaskets as one of mine developed a leak. Personally I love the head lift stands (like the one in my VTR photo), very easy to use and great for front end work UNLESS you need to work on the steering head. https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7S7LNNFH/title/torpedo7-motorcycle-front-head-lift-stand

IMG_2351.JPG

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Or, do a combo of a jack under the headers (I use a small piece of plywood to distribute the load to both tubes and to make sure there's plenty of surface area so the jack won't slip off) and some weight on the back seat.  A sandbag would work well for that  or another solution I saw was to run an appropriate size pipe through the rear axle and then stack barbell weights on it.  What works well for a jack is from a sedan that has a scissor jack.  With the weight on the back the jack won't have to do much if any work to raise the front up.    When I had my forks out for service mine sat like that for a month with no problem.  Just be sure to loosen the bolts up prior to jacking it up.  But, stands remain the best way if you want to make the investment. 

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This is how it looked while I was reinstalling the forks.  It clearly shows the headers supporting the front and how I positioned the jack.  The stability was fine.  I would not though recommend doing any heavy duty tightening of fasteners in this state.  If you leave the rear wheel on (I couldn't here because the shock was out) you can lift the front with the jack until the rear wheel just contacts the floor (do not overdo as you'll end up picking it up off its side), and then with 3 points of contact it's surprisingly stable. 

 

 

20150131_152306 Resize.jpg

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If you have a hard point above, like a good stout joist or carrying beam, you can throw a strop under your triple trees and use a chain hoist. Any doubts about the joist, throw a piece of 4 X 4 over 3-4 of them and center the bike underneath. Notice the center stand is taking some of the weight

 

Back when I used a hydraulic motorcycle jack, I used to throw a couple of ratchet straps over a joist and jack the bike up then take just a little weight on the straps as a safety in case I got a little over eager with the socket set. Spread them a bit on the joist so you get a good angle and use the triple tree as a lift point with a strop. You can use any kind of jack you want really, but use good real ratchet straps instead of those pull through ones with no real brake.

 

First pic is this past Spring, had the front off to swap the tire and the rear swingarm off to service bearings, bushings, shock etc.

 

Second pic is the type of jack I used, but the bike still was a bit bouncy, hence the straps.

 

Good luck

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motorcycle-jack-m100-1.2_8f2dfd4b-c5cf-423f-8997-7b3497dfaeaa_2048x2048.jpg

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I use the PitBull stands for the front, but when it wasn't handy, I just put an 80 pound, or so, sandbag on the passenger seat

which lifted the front wheel, and then used a jack under the header. The jack had no weight on it, it was just insurance if something

happened.

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Short answer: Yes.

 

The front wheel only has to drop a couple inches to clear. If it comes down far enough, you only need

to remove one caliper to get it out. Removing both makes it a bit is easier, though.

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1 hour ago, FJ12Ryder said:

Short answer: Yes.

 

The front wheel only has to drop a couple inches to clear. If it comes down far enough, you only need

to remove one caliper to get it out. Removing both makes it a bit is easier, though.

Thank you

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One thing i've done is hang front-end of bike from garage beams.

 

Safer than teeter-tottering on jacks.

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I always take the fender and both calipers off whenever I remove the wheel. Just makes the process of re-fitting so much easier.

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2 hours ago, Terry said:

I always take the fender and both calipers off whenever I remove the wheel. Just makes the process of re-fitting so much easier.

 I thought of that, in a pinch remove the front fender since I don't have a proper stand or lift yet. 

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Place a ratchet strap on the floor.  Next a suitable length of 2 X 12 on the floor and on top of the strap.  Park VFR on top of board with strap under the rear wheel and board that the motorcycle is now sitting on.  Place VFR on centerstand on top of board.  Bring strap over seat and ratchet rear wheel firmly to the floor and board that it is parked on.  This will raise the front and keep it securely in place while the wheel is removed.  Board follows centerline of motorcycle and strap is at 90 degrees to motorcycle and board.

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1 hour ago, Sp00ks said:

 I thought of that, in a pinch remove the front fender since I don't have a proper stand or lift yet. 

4 socket head bolts and its off in less than a minute....(ok, 5 for newbies..:biggrin:)

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10 hours ago, chudson019 said:

Place a ratchet strap on the floor.  Next a suitable length of 2 X 12 on the floor and on top of the strap.  Park VFR on top of board with strap under the rear wheel and board that the motorcycle is now sitting on.  Place VFR on centerstand on top of board.  Bring strap over seat and ratchet rear wheel firmly to the floor and board that it is parked on.  This will raise the front and keep it securely in place while the wheel is removed.  Board follows centerline of motorcycle and strap is at 90 degrees to motorcycle and board.

That is some NC injenuity right there. I also had them install a loop/hook in the corner of the concrete when they built my garage. I could get it close to that and strap the back wheel down. It's a toe murderer but comes in handy once in awhile. 

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10 hours ago, chudson019 said:

Place a ratchet strap on the floor.  Next a suitable length of 2 X 12 on the floor and on top of the strap.  Park VFR on top of board with strap under the rear wheel and board that the motorcycle is now sitting on.  Place VFR on centerstand on top of board.  Bring strap over seat and ratchet rear wheel firmly to the floor and board that it is parked on.  This will raise the front and keep it securely in place while the wheel is removed.  Board follows centerline of motorcycle and strap is at 90 degrees to motorcycle and board.

That is some NC injenuity right there. I also had them install a loop/hook in the corner of the concrete when they built my garage. I could get it close to that and strap the back wheel down. It's a toe murderer but comes in handy once in awhile. 

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I drilled my slab and put in anchors for my tire changer. If the threads get full, I use the shopvac and I can attach whatever I want to the floor now.

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10 hours ago, Sweeper said:

I drilled my slab and put in anchors for my tire changer. If the threads get full, I use the shopvac and I can attach whatever I want to the floor now.

Save that vac time... put a little oil on some earplugs and put them in your anchors........ old trick.

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