Yet another question about my Frankenstein

[Zacharmento]

I’m still not super good at this forum thing but here’s and update and a new problem, so frank here has his lights finally working, the fire blade front end only has the two headlights so I moved the hi beam wire to the inner light socket and got the go low functioning, I used a 5 post starter relay to delete most of the headlight wires and all that crap, so I got all my wires tucked and all I wanted was a first cruise since I got the body back together, well my battery was low and I had to jump it to get it running, let it run for a min and then hopped on, revved good and sounded go so I went to take off made it half way down the drive way and it died, so I pushed it back up, jumped it, let it run tried to get it to do it agian and nothing, so okay stay close to the shop and keep it short, made it farther this time all the way to the road and as soon as I started to turn onto the road and take off it died, now the lights stay on and I can try and crank it didn’t fire cuz my battery was still weak, cranking but cranking slowly. Now I’m guessing 2 things the weak battery not being strong enough to fire the engine under load/charging system is weak, or the tip over sensor (I’ve just kinda squished it behind my dash and I’m pretty sure it’s not right side up) but I’ve messed with it some while the bike is running and it dosnt seem to do anything “before today’s issues” does anyone have any input? Sorry for the long winded post! The bike is an 07 vfr800, I’m all for deleting as much as I can, so I think that tip over is gunna be the first to go, I’ll delete the kickstand switch too as I’ve just realized while writing this that it could be a problem with the kickstand isn’t contacting the switch completely because of the new fairings, I did have some issues with fitting around kickstands

[Grum]

Wow, you have a few issues here!

 

Firstly. Run the engine and have a voltmeter on the battery to confirm your charging system. The reading should be around 13.5v and 14.5v. Check this at Idle and 5000rpm.

 

The Bank Angle Sensor needs to be positioned correctly. If it has activated you will be able to crank the engine but it will not start and you should see the Fi light fully On. Requires Ignition Switch to Off then On to reset.

Also, why would you bypass the BAS? They are generally extremely reliable and in the event of a fall over engine and fuel pump are immediately halted, potentially saving your bike going up in a fireball.

 

Once in gear the ECM needs the Ground input from your Side Stand UP to keep the Ignition Enabled. Proper operation of the side stand switch is an important saftey feature and along with the clutch switch allows you to do an in gear start. So if the switch is on the hairy edge or intermittent this will kill your engine instantly, when in gear.

 

The choice is yours, but messing with any of the Clutch, Side Stand, and Neutral switches along with bypassing the BAS is bad news!  They are there for very good reasons. YMMV.

Cheers.

[Zacharmento]

Well I agree, they are there for a reason, I may  leave clutch switch, because your right I have Lurched the bike forward by accident. I’ll try what u listed, are there any other areas we are missing that could cause this except a phantom short?

[Grum]

17 minutes ago, Zacharmento said:

Well I agree, they are there for a reason, I may  leave clutch switch, because your right I have Lurched the bike forward by accident. I’ll try what u listed, are there any other areas we are missing that could cause this except a phantom short?

First thing is to start with a known good fully charged battery and an operational charging system. Sounds like your battery may not be fully up to the task. Make sure battery terminals are clean and tight.

Mount your BAS correctly and as mentioned, if this activates your engine will shut down and the Fi Light will be ON.

Make sure your side stand switch is good as mentioned if its not fully activated to closed when up this will shut down your engine when in gear.

 

If you have some form of "phantom short" you would most likley be blowing fuses!

 

[DannoXYZ]

I wouldn't bypass safety switches either. People have died from taking off with side stand down. Even with rubber finger that swings up side stand for you, if you take off quickly from kerb and turn left sharply, it can still high-side you into on-coming traffic with dead engine.

 

None of these switches can be causing you problems you're experiencing as they are binary. Bike will will either run or it will not. Certainly not start up for minute or two, then die. This sounds exclusively weak-battery related.

 

1. what is battery voltage with bike off?

 

2. what is battery voltage while cranking engine? test-leads with alligator clips help here since you won't need 3 arms.

 

3. what is battery voltage while idling?

 

4. what is battery voltage at 5000rpms?

These tests will determine how much battery voltage is contributing to your issue. And also perhaps why that is.

 

Wouldn't hurt to electronically test all safety switches to verify they operate correctly. Neutral yes/no, side-stand up/down, clutch in/out, BAS upright/tlited 60-degrees, etc.