Stonesie Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Hi folks, I haven't even bought a VFR yet but have settled on one as my next bike, 6th gen looks the best to me.. To the point, clearing the garage out I found a few nice things that I had totally forgotten about, including a SH775 Reg/Rec still in it's Polaris box. So is this still a good option for a VFR800? it seems from my limited research that cooling is important for this one but with it being mounted near the radiator I think it should get plenty of air? It must have been bought for my old Daytona 650, that thing fried 2 stators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RobF Posted December 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2020 Welcome! I think the SH775 R/R works in the 6th gen, so it might be nice to have as a spare. I believe the most common failure modes of the 6th gen R/R tend to be: Under-engineered wiring to the battery OEM serial unit wears out ...so preventative measures often involve upgrading the wiring and/or replacing the stock R/R with a MOSFET like the FH020AA. Speaking of stators, the 6th gen stator does not receive sufficient oil cooling and has a habit of dying, with the mean miles to failure maybe somewhere in the 30K-50K range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonesie Posted December 28, 2020 Author Share Posted December 28, 2020 Okay thank you, the one that I am looking at tomorrow has 42K miles so fitting the 775 will be good preventative maintenance The mosfet seem to be way more popular but the series type 775 makes the stator run cooler, I don't think many bikes had sufficient oil flow to make the stator live forever with a shunt type regulator saturating it's coils to regulate voltage. From what I have seen online, the wiring will need some modification to make any of the more modern Regulators fit, I think I have the plugs in a "safe place" from Eastern Beaver... Plenty to have a go at. As for my current bike, it's too good for me, so good I find it bland, the VFR from sound alone offers character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted December 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2020 The video below is from Jack at Roadstercycle who seems to get good reviews and sells only the Shindigen R/R's. The 1st 10 mins or so are charging system basics which may be redundant for many. At about 10:30 he starts in about "why you would choose one or the other" and at about 11:25 he specifically mentions the 775 and why you would / wouldn't use it. I had thought it would be attractive due its smaller footprint than the 847, but after what he points out about its use on higher RPM bikes I'll probably stick with the 847 when I get to doing that mod this winter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXbZZZWLtzY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted December 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2020 I like the SH775 for its smaller size. Unless I'm racing bike, I'm not going to be constantly at redline and over RPM limit of SH775 anyway. This is also used as OEM Polaris 4012941 which you can usually pick up at breakers for $50. Also don't have to worry about optimum mounting & airflow or extra heatsinking. Since it only flows as much power as being consumed, it's always cool to touch at end of ride. Stator is that cool as well. When making wiring for RR, don't use bare brass terminals. You'll end up replicating factory OEM faults and those connectors will corrode over time and increase resistance and heat up connection. I prefer to always upgrade to better-than-stock specs and solve issues forever. So at minimum, get tin-coated connectors, and pre-tinned silicone wires if possible. Crimp, solder and adhesive heat-shrink wrap all connectors. It's done this way in pro-motorsports, aerospace and military wiring for performance, durability and reliability. Planes have fallen out of sky due to poor wiring. If it can be done better, I prefer to do it. If you re-do fuse-B, I recommend upgrading to bolt-on MIDI fuses rather than stock ATO/ATC blade-connectors. Larger contact area and tight bolted connection can conduct up to 200a without heating up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonesie Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 The deeper I look the more I think that this is the reason that I did not fit the SH775 to the Daytona 650, it had a redline at 14K rpm and being a 650 IL4 it got above 7K a lot as that's where the fun was, same thing with the VFR VTEC. So, it might be up for sale, years old but still new in the box while I look for the SH847, fitted to a friends bike as standard apparently (V-strom 1000 2016). I thank you both for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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