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Front wheel install axle flush on left forkleg


Loftur

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8th Gen

 

Hi, so i have a question about axle alignment on left forklegs outside.

According to manual it says to make sure the axle is flush on left forklegs outside, sp before tighten that pinchbolt on forkleg i pushed the forkleg inwards to be flush.

But i realized something, i can push the forkleg a little bit more inwards so the axle sticks out of forkleg about 3-4mm....

So i thought, if axle is flush outside forkleg then there must be a play between the wheel , side collars and forklegs..

Any thoughts on this ?
If anyone are to mount the frontwheel can you please check if you have the same phenomena as i do?

Thanks and Happy New vfr Year

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Once you have the axle flush with the fork leg you can tighten the LHS pinch bolt. Tightening the axle nut should then take up any slack in the spacers. I seem to remember this has been discussed elsewhere in the forum. It might be worth doing a search to get input from more experienced guys.

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There should be no need to push the fork legs! With the collars in position on the wheel all should slide together nicely, there's nothing difficult about it. Also make sure the ABS ring is on the right hand side. Tighten the axel nut then do the two pinch bolts. Left side should look like attached photo.

 

20201227_194716.jpg

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9 minutes ago, VFR78 said:

Once you have the axle flush with the fork leg you can tighten the LHS pinch bolts. Tightening the axle nut should then take up any slack in the spacers. I seem to remember this has been discussed elsewhere in the forum. It might be worth doing a search to get input from more experienced guys.

 

Hi and thanks, i did a search but found only 6th gen.

 

"Tightening the axle nut should then take up any slack in the spacers"

It does not work like that on 8th gen since the axle is not tightened in left leg exept the picnh bolt. , , , there is now screwing together of the legs with axle bolts.

 

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5 minutes ago, Grum said:

There should be no need to push the fork legs! With the collars positioned on the axel all should slide together nicely, there's nothing difficult about it. Also make sure the ABS ring is on the right hand side. Tighten the axel nut then do the two pinch bolts. Left side should look like attached photo.

 

20201227_194716.jpg

Hi and thanks for picture, i see axle is not flush on your leg, according to manual it should be.

 

From manual:

With the front brake applied, pump the forks up and down several times to seat the axle and check the brake operation. 

Make sure the axle end is flush with the fork leg.

 Tighten the left axle pinch bolt to the specified torque.

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9 minutes ago, Grum said:

There should be no need to push the fork legs! With the collars in position on the wheel all should slide together nicely, there's nothing difficult about it. Also make sure the ABS ring is on the right hand side. Tighten the axel nut then do the two pinch bolts. Left side should look like attached photo.

 

20201227_194716.jpg

 

You went to your bike and took a picture?, you are very kind, thanks 🙂

 

Perhaps you can check if the forkleg is pushable more towars the wheel so that the axle sticks out of the leg a couple off mm?, thats the phenomena i have.

Thanks

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M8 its that close to flush it doesn't matter. Measured at 0.6mm.

Have the collars fitted into the wheel bearings, postion the wheel and push the axel through tighten the axle and pinch bolts. There is NO reason to disturb the forks.

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4 hours ago, Loftur said:

 

You went to your bike and took a picture?, you are very kind, thanks 🙂

 

Perhaps you can check if the forkleg is pushable more towars the wheel so that the axle sticks out of the leg a couple off mm?, thats the phenomena i have.

Thanks

Fork leg more pushable! Sorry, I have no idea what you are saying.

Do you have both collars properly fitted on the axle? Have you now disturbed the fork alignment for the axle by all this fork pushing!!!

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3 minutes ago, Grum said:

Fork leg more pushable! I have no idea what you are saying.

Do you have both collars properly fitted on the axel? Have you now disturb the fork alignment for the axel by all this so called pushing!!!

 

Well im from Sweden and not the best one in english..

 

So if the manaul says FLUSH to leg, you say skip it?

 

What im trying to say is that i can lighly press forkleg more inwards to wheel so that the axle sticks out about 2-3 mm.

 

And just to clerify, if i just lett it all fit by itself the my axle is also about 2 mm inside the leg.

 

 

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Install the side collars. Place the wheel between the fork legs.

Carefully align the axle holes and insert the axle from the left side until it is flush with the fork leg.

Hold the axle and tighten the axle bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 lbMt)

Tighten the right axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbMt)

Make sure the collars [6] are installed in the fork leg. Install the brake calipers with new mounting bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. TORQUE: 45 N·m (4.6 kgf·m, 33 lbMt)

With the front brake applied, pump the forks up and down several times to seat the axle and check the brake operation.

Make sure the axle end is flush with the fork leg.

Tighten the left axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbMt) 

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I tighten the LHS pinch bolt enough first, to allow me to torque the axle nut.  I then loosen them, make sure there is no play then tighten the RHS pinch bolt. Bouncing the forks places the end of the axle where shown on Grum’s photo. Then retighten the LHS pinch bolt. There might be a small gap between the LHS fork leg and the spacer, that could be taken up by pushing the fork leg inwards. You shouldn’t do that, the forks will find their correct location when you bounce them with the LHS pinch bolt loose.

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2 hours ago, Loftur said:

 

Hi and thanks, i did a search but found only 6th gen.

 

"Tightening the axle nut should then take up any slack in the spacers"

It does not work like that on 8th gen since the axle is not tightened in left leg exept the picnh bolt. , , , there is now screwing together of the legs with axle bolts.

 

8gen and 6gen are virtually the same in that tightening the axle bolt does take up any slack in the spacers!

The only difference is on the 6gen the right side collar is longer than the left. Also the 6gen axle has a hole through the protruding left side so you can fit a screwdriver or similar through the hole so you can tighten the axle bolt. The 8gen has a allen key for the same purpose.

 

You seem to be making something very simple difficult. Provided you have the collars fitted into the wheel bearings and you carefully raise the wheel to insert the axle from the left, then all you need to do is take up the slack with the axle bolt, fit your calipers, go through the pinch bolt procedure, have it all tightened up and your done.

 

Worrying about the axle being flush on the left side is purely a starting point for fitting the axle bolt. Tightening the axel bolt will pull the left side fully seated, this is what's important not whether its dead flush, or not!

 

Using a head lift stand makes this very easy. Have never had any issue removing and replacing the front wheel on any of my 6gens or (even easier) 8gen.

 

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53 minutes ago, Grum said:

8gen and 6gen are virtually the same in that tightening the axle bolt does take up any slack in the spacers!

The only difference is on the 6gen the right side collar is longer than the left. Also the 6gen axle has a hole through the protruding left side so you can fit a screwdriver or similar through the hole so you can tighten the axle bolt. The 8gen has a allen key for the same purpose.

 

You seem to be making something very simple difficult. Provided you have the collars fitted into the wheel bearings and you carefully raise the wheel to insert the axle from the left, then all you need to do is take up the slack with the axle bolt, fit your calipers, go through the pinch bolt procedure, have it all tightened up and your done.

 

Worrying about the axle being flush on the left side is purely a starting point for fitting the axle bolt. Tightening the axel bolt will pull the left side fully seated, this is what's important not whether its dead flush, or not!

 

Using a head lift stand makes this very easy. Have never had any issue removing and replacing the front wheel on any of my 6gens or (even easier) 8gen.

 

 

Yes, youre correct about this "8gen and 6gen are virtually the same in that tightening the axle bolt does take up any slack in the spacers!"

 

The rest i dont read since it does not follow the manual regarding installation/fitting the axle in left forkleg.

 

I suggest you do what YOU seem to be right and i will follow the manual.

 

I urge others that install front wheel and axle , dont do as Grum and vfr78 says. Do it the right way as stated in manual.

 

 

Install the side collars. Place the wheel between the fork legs.

Carefully align the axle holes and insert the axle from the left side until it is flush with the fork leg.

Hold the axle and tighten the axle bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 lbMt)

Tighten the right axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbMt)

Make sure the collars [6] are installed in the fork leg. Install the brake calipers with new mounting bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. TORQUE: 45 N·m (4.6 kgf·m, 33 lbMt)

With the front brake applied, pump the forks up and down several times to seat the axle and check the brake operation.

Make sure the axle end is flush with the fork leg.

Tighten the left axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbMt) 

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1 hour ago, Loftur said:

 

Yes, youre correct about this "8gen and 6gen are virtually the same in that tightening the axle bolt does take up any slack in the spacers!"

 

The rest i dont read since it does not follow the manual regarding installation/fitting the axle in left forkleg.

 

I suggest you do what YOU seem to be right and i will follow the manual.

 

I urge others that install front wheel and axle , dont do as Grum and vfr78 says. Do it the right way as stated in manual.

 

 

Install the side collars. Place the wheel between the fork legs.

Carefully align the axle holes and insert the axle from the left side until it is flush with the fork leg.

Hold the axle and tighten the axle bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 lbMt)

Tighten the right axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbMt)

Make sure the collars [6] are installed in the fork leg. Install the brake calipers with new mounting bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. TORQUE: 45 N·m (4.6 kgf·m, 33 lbMt)

With the front brake applied, pump the forks up and down several times to seat the axle and check the brake operation.

Make sure the axle end is flush with the fork leg.

Tighten the left axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbMt) 

 

Loftur.

You are NOT correct. And both my bike and VFR78's bike is correct. Look closely at the Service Manual picture attached. NOTICE the axle is NOT dead flush with the fork leg and is exactly as per the photo I posted for you of my bike.

 

Fitting the front wheel is a simple task. Have the collars inserted into the wheel bearings raise the wheel into the forks then insert the axle. Tightening the axle bolt WILL fully seat the axle. This is what is important, not where the end of the axle actually sits!

 

As I've said before you seem to be overly concerned about having the axle end perfectly flush with the fork and this is not the case in the real world.

 

My 8gen has done nearly 80,000ks and I've never experienced any issues with brakes, wheel alignment or my front wheel  falling off!!!! Between my 6gens and 8gens have removed and fitted the front wheel many, many times.

IMG_0975.PNG

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9 minutes ago, Grum said:

 

Loftur. You are NOT correct. Look closely at the Service Manual picture attached. NOTICE the axle is NOT dead flush with the fork leg and is exactly as per the photo I posted for you of my bike.

 

Fitting the front wheel is a simple task. Have the collars inserted into the wheel bearings raise the wheel into the forks then insert the axle. Tightening the axle bolt WILL fully seat the axle. This is what is important, not where the end of the axle actually sits!

 

As I've said before you seem to be overly concerned about having the axle end perfectly flush with the fork.

 

My 8gen has done nearly 80,000ks and I've never experienced any issues with brakes, wheel alignment or my front wheel  falling off!!!! Between my 6gens and 8gens have removed and fitted the front wheel many, many times.

IMG_0975.PNG

 

 

image.png.32ca7b0584dd802a1a927d179def445e.pngimage.png.32ca7b0584dd802a1a927d179def445e.pngimage.png.32ca7b0584dd802a1a927d179def445e.png

image.png.dfad114af4b23efc8d3a7c31551ea2fd.png

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13 minutes ago, Loftur said:

 

 

image.png.32ca7b0584dd802a1a927d179def445e.pngimage.png.32ca7b0584dd802a1a927d179def445e.pngimage.png.32ca7b0584dd802a1a927d179def445e.png

image.png.dfad114af4b23efc8d3a7c31551ea2fd.png

 

These are not actual photos.

Oh dear! Have it your way. Maybe you could add your own spacers so the axle is perfectly dead flush with the fork leg. Then you may need to re align your brake calipers!!!

I don't wish to argue with you. Do as you please and good luck. Sorry to have wasted both your and my time.

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8 minutes ago, Grum said:

 

These are not actual photos.

Oh dear! Have it your way. Maybe you could add your own spacers so the axle is perfectly dead flush with the fork leg. Then you may need to re align your brake calipers!!!

I don't wish to argue with you. Do as you please and good luck. Sorry to have wasted both your and my time.

 

 

Not real picture! , so what do say about this, its false also according to your logic?!

 

But you do that, install according to picture and not the instructions in text. God i hope you dont work in ac mc-garage for a company!.

 

I´ll rest my case. Have a nice day. Over and out.

 

 

image.thumb.png.344d0b85a53082388b839478f71a6314.png

 

 

 

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My apologies if I've misunderstood you.

I loosened the left pinch bolt and pushed on left fork, I could not move the fork and change the position of where the axle sits. Measured the axle from flush at 0.6mm!

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Loftur,

 

Correct front wheel location/fixing is of concern to all motorcyclists. So we understand your concern and really only want to help/assure you.

 

Have you checked all the upper fork mountings to make sure they are all firm and there is no movement. Also, does the whole fork assembly move or just the lower slider. Maybe something is wrong in the fork.

 

Grum is a bit of an oracle, when it comes to these bikes, and has helped a large number of members sort out problems. Like all of us, frustration builds when trying to explain stuff over the internet. Face to face over a beer is always much nicer.

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10 hours ago, Loftur said:

1. Install the side collars. Place the wheel between the fork legs.

2. Carefully align the axle holes and insert the axle from the left side until it is flush with the fork leg.

3. Hold the axle and tighten the axle bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 lbMt)

4. Tighten the right axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbMt)

5. Make sure the collars [6] are installed in the fork leg. Install the brake calipers with new mounting bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. TORQUE: 45 N·m (4.6 kgf·m, 33 lbMt)

6. With the front brake applied, pump the forks up and down several times to seat the axle and check the brake operation.

7. Make sure the axle end is flush with the fork leg.

8. Tighten the left axle pinch bolt to the specified torque. TORQUE: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbMt) 

Loftur, I think you're all correct with procedure. I think there's slight nuance in language here that's causing some misunderstanding. First some givens:

 

- spacing of fork-blades is fixed and cannot be changed. Determined by spacing of holes in upper & lower triple-T clamps.

 

- length of axle is fixed. Cannot be changed unless you cut off either end or weld on extension.

 

Keep these two fixed dimensions in mind as we go through installation procedure:

 

1-2. set axle in fork-ends in final location

 

3-4. once axle-bolt and right pinch-bolt are tightened, axle-length and axle lateral location is fixed in space and cannot be changed.

 

6. bouncing forks centers sliders concentrically over fork tubes

 

7. the "make sure" axle end is flush means "check and verify". There is NO "align" or "adjust" operation said here. Nothing active.

 

You can't push on axle because its length is fixed and location determined by right fork pinch bolts.

 

Manual doesn't say "align", "move", or "adjust" in this step because it will mess up centering of fork-slider with fork tube. What it means by "make sure" is to just verify axle-end location on left side in case spacer wasn't installed properly or axle-bolt wasn't tightened properly or right pinch-bolt wan't done properly. If all those were done correctly, left axle-end should be close to flush +/- 0,5mm like Grum's photo.

 

Now fact that you can push your left fork-blade in and out 3-4mm means you have fork-slider issue. Seals and bushings inside fork must be worn if you're able to move fork-end laterally at that final stage.

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Whew! Danno and Grum are now first in line for international diplomatic negotiations. Good job, keep calm and spin the spanner. At least we have progressed from the early '70's Jinglish (half Japanese, half English and not good at either) service and owners manuals. Agreed - there is often a misunderstanding of terms and their IMPLIED meanings which can lead to significant frustration.  In the final analysis this is a forum to assist VFR owners.  Choose to follow the advice, or not. Simple.

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