Alternator gasket: is sealant also required?

[Astandane]

Hi all,

 

Recently decided to replace the alternator gasket ('03 VFR800) due to an oil leak that was too big to ignore. and I'm a bit confused by what's suggested in the Haynes Manual.

 

I know sealant should be applied to the wiring grommet, but the manual says smear a layer of it on the mating surface as well as using the new gasket. 

 

On one hand, I didn't see any present when removing the old one, but on the other I found there was some towards the top - I think there has been a monkey working in here in the past. 

 

So, what's the best practice here? Gasket and sealant to get the best results?

 

Thanks!

[BusyLittleShop]

I employ Permatex Aviation gasket sealer... I seal the gasket to the cover not the engine... this is a maintenance convenient move and not required to establish a leak proof seal...

[DannoXYZ]

Yeah, either no sealant or sealant all around 1 side. Half-on half-off like previous install probably contributed to leaks.

 

I've also found Toyota FIPG and Yamabond-4 works well. Don't use Yamabond-5.

 

Use torque-wrench in criss-cross pattern.

[Grum]

Agree with BLS in using the Permatex Form-A-Gasket its an Excellent product that is non hardening. I even love the smell of this stuff!

 

BUT.......Make sure you fit the gasket to the Engine side NOT the cover side first.

There are the two locating dowel pins that will keep the gasket located on the engine side.

A light smear of the gasket compound both sides on the full gasket area is perfectly fine and will virtually guarantee a nicely sealed joint.

 

If you don't have the gasket on the engine side, then as you go to install the cover and stator the strong magnetic attraction can slame the housing against the engine side AND if the dowels didn't align perfectly it will damage the gasket on the cover. So remember, Gasket Placed On the Engine Side.

 

How do I know........don't ask!!!

 

Be careful and thorough in removing All pieces of the old gasket.

 

Some people purchase long bolts and grind the heads off. You can then screw these in by hand and these will act as additional alignment guides. Handy but not absolutely necessary.

Cheers.

[Cogswell]

1 hour ago, Grum said:

 

Some people purchase long bolts and grind the heads off. You can then screw these in by hand and these will act as additional alignment guides. Handy but not absolutely necessary.

Cheers.

 

I've been doing that the past few times I've pulled stator covers.  It's a bit of extra work but it makes it easy to keep it aligned on installation. I keep the bolts in a known location to use again.   Agreed,  not necessary. If one keeps track of the bolts they're ready for next time. 

[Astandane]

Thanks everyone, would rather get this right first time 🙂

[MarcOtt]

I recently replaced my stator on an '03, was in good condition but didn't want to wait should it fail. Gasket was applied dry, with silicon RTV on the wire grommet section. Tightened bolts in a criss-cross pattern , low torque, no leaks. However, I applied light grease to one side of my clutch cover gasket, believing this may be removed sooner than the stator.  Applied RTV to two areas were the lower and upper cases mate and at the pulse generator wire grommet. No leaks. Gasket sealant is not necessary.