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Yet Another (BUDGET) Street Fighter Build


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Hooked up the dash wiring, oil light, neutral light, high beam light, turn indicators, shift lights, tach, fuel gauge, and speedo all work as planned. I won't know if the low fuel light works until I get low on fuel. I will still need to program the gear indicator once I can ride it for more than a few minutes, without wires hanging everywhere...

 

Also have to try to remove and replace the temp sensor without taking the tank and carbs off. Looks like I might have a shot at success...

 

The protective film is still on the gauge, so it looks kinda funky...

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Had to cut out a section of the SALVAGE TITLE frame to clear the headlight connector. There was about 1/8", but I would rather be safe than sorry. I rigged up a jig using some parts from the RC51 Tuono ignition lock. Worked out well...

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The only issue I ran into was the high beam and low beam only work if both relays are in place, even though I only have one bulb. I don't know if the bulb is different from the VFR, or if I can wire it differently. I try to put the VFR bulb in tomorrow, and see if that helps. Otherwise I may just have to leave both relays intact. I will use the NASA method recommended by Danno to shorten up all the wires tomorrow. I made a print for my headlight bracket so I can mill that out on Monday. Just have to tidy up some stuff and front will be done for now. I will eventually make some side panels, mount the fuse box, and make a coolant tank.

 

Here's a short video to prove it runs... 😀

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Almost forgot....NOW it's time for some refreshment!

 

No beer when reading wiring diagrams....

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Coming along nicely! 👋


Dual headlight relays are more complicated than necessary. I can work up simple diagram for you to use single Bosch/ISO 5-pin relay for both low & high beam. Can eliminate at least 2-miles of wiring that way. Get one of these socket+relay kits:

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N66W2XF/

 

We will remove this entire relay+headlights circuit and replace with single relay + single headlight.

 

1993-1997_VFR750-headlightsUpdate.thumb.png.bf7f98a51f24849e289fefd8e4ff2b82.png

 

 

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Ok, here's wiring reduced to single headlight and single relay (wiring-colours are from this kit). Only side-effect is no headlight shutoff when cranking engine. But shouldn't be problem, it's worked this way on my CBR600RR for past 15-years without any issue.

 

1993-1997_VFR750-headlightSingle.thumb.png.5685c1c6decef0fd0eb94b99a830ad08.png

 

You can remove one headlight circuit completely and most of both relay circuits. Leaving just enough to connect to new relay. Might want to mount relay securely first, then figure which wire and lengths you needed to reach.

 

Bu = high-beam trigger from dimmer-switch to white on relay-socket

Green = ground to black

Bl/R = +12 power-feed from fusebox to red

W/Bl = low-beam filament to yellow

Bu/Bl = high-beam filament to blue

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Thanks Danno, I am trying to simplify as much as possible, so that will help. There are so many wires for this bike...here's how it looked this morning...

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I wrapped each connector bundle, and have some braided sheathing when I finish the last few details. Some progress made...

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2 hours ago, DannoXYZ said:

Ok, here's wiring reduced to single headlight and single relay (wiring-colours are from this kit). Only side-effect is no headlight shutoff when cranking engine. But shouldn't be problem, it's worked this way on my CBR600RR for past 15-years without any issue.

 

1993-1997_VFR750-headlightSingle.thumb.png.71deae4c34ac65b3c9300bd76dff596d.png

 

You can remove one headlight circuit completely and most of both relay circuits. Leaving just enough to connect to new relay. Might want to mount relay securely first, then figure which wire and lengths you needed to reach.

 

Bu = high-beam trigger from dimmer-switch to yellow on relay-socket

Green = ground to white

Bl/R = +12 power-feed from fusebox to black

W/Bl = low-beam filament to white

Bu/Bl = high-beam filament to cyan

Hey Danno thats a great Relay Kit. But according to the colour code on the web site for the relay, it doesn't match your drawing.

 

The two coil wires are the 16awg wires being the Black 85 should go to Green (ground) on blike, and the White 86 should go to Blue (hi beam select) on bike.

 

Relay contacts 12awg wires are the Red, Yellow and Blue.

- Common 30 is Red. Should go to Black/Red on bike. (Bulb power)

- Normally Closed 87a is Yellow. Should go to White/Black on bike. (Lo beam)

- Normally Open 87 is Blue. Should go to Blue/Black on bike. (Hi beam)

 

Perhaps the web site is wrong! Bit confusing, needs checking.

Cheers.

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darn, i may have downloaded wrong image. I'll double-check. Thanks for heads-up!:computer-noworky:

 

 

EDIT: I've updated wire-colours to match relay-kit.

 

Note that I'm always trying to update to better-than-stock specs. In this case, relay is sealed to prevent moisture and corrosion.

 

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10 hours ago, RC1237V said:

Thanks Danno, I am trying to simplify as much as possible, so that will help. There are so many wires for this bike...here's how it looked this morning...

 

 

10 hours ago, RC1237V said:

I wrapped each connector bundle, and have some braided sheathing when I finish the last few details. Some progress made...

 

 

Coming along nicely! Very tidy work, I like it!!! :)

 

Some products that may help you:

silicone electrical tape - won't dry up and get crispy like regular vinyl or PVC-based tape. However, my oldest sample is 5-yrs old, so not sure how it holds up to my 50-year standard.

 

adhesive shrink-wrap tape - for those times when you've got connectors already attached and want to seal up wiring and joints upstream.

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Awesome, thanks! I did not know they made heat shrink tape - good to know! I will get an LED flasher relay too, so my turn signals don't hyper-flash.

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Have to rebuild the forks on the 12Hundo, and have the oil, seals, and bushings, so hopefully get that done tomorrow. The parts finally came in for the tank, so might get that done this weekend too. Final headlight bracket might be awhile, as work is really busy now...

 

Working on some beers right now.  😋

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VFRs and beer, two of my favourite topics. This thread delivers 👌

 

I will need some of that wiring info for one of my own projects so thanks for sharing, Danno.

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Work has been slammed, so not a ton of progress. Did get the temp sensor in without taking the carbs off! Installed the magnets in the rotor bolts and tested - both work! 

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Anyone know if the coils need to be grounded? These little "grounding brackets" make me think they should be, although it runs fine just hanging off the bike...and the other bracket is why the VFR's were so heavy and expensive. Engineering overkill......

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And no, I didn't forget - enjoying this tonight - Smoke and Mirrors from Revision in Reno....top notch!

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13 hours ago, RC1237V said:

Someone really beat up the air horns, or velocity stacks on this bike...

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WTF?

 

People have never heard of a rubber mallet?  And why would you need to beat on them anyway, I guess somebody totally disassembled the carbs at some point and was trying to re-attach the stacks. It almost looks like somebody was hitting them with a punch. 

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40 minutes ago, mtnpat said:

WTF?

 

People have never heard of a rubber mallet?  And why would you need to beat on them anyway, I guess somebody totally disassembled the carbs at some point and was trying to re-attach the stacks. It almost looks like somebody was hitting them with a punch. 

 

Looks like somebody repeatedly dropping them down in the driveway upside down on the stacks.

 

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15 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

 

Looks like somebody repeatedly dropping them down in the driveway upside down on the stacks.

 

Plus 1 on that. It's amazing how clueless and uncaring people can be.

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