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Rapid chain wear


Loubloub

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Did my preride checkup last night and notices noticed excessive slack on my drive chain. I just changed it less than 1500 km on it. So I'm wondering if I did anything wrong? I can be a little aggressive with acceleration and downshifting but I am not a stunt rider by any means so no wheelies or anything risky.

 

I followed the maintenance guide instructions, adjusted the chain to about an inch and a sixteenth play. I don't thing there is any adjustment for wheel alignment as it is a single arm suspension. So what have I overlooked?

 

2003 VFR800 and I ordered a low end chain (D.I.D530NZ) because the rivet tool was $300 with the extras. I was hoping to get at least a season out of it.

 

Thanks in advance for your time and assistance. 

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Double check your swingarm pinch bolt.  IIRC it should be 54 foot pounds.

 

Did you change sprockets?   Worn sprockets can cause rapid chain wear, though I've not heard of them roaching a chain in just 1500 km. Regardless,  always best to change them when installing a new chain. 

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You can buy yourself one of these for under $100us.

Motion Pro 08-0470 chain riveting kit, does 520, 525 and 530 chains. Great bit of kit. Still use an angle grinder to remove the old chain, purely to grind off a rivet head then use this tool to press out the rivet.

 

20201108_131500.jpg

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The DID 530NZ is a non O ring chain specified for vintage motor cycles with a “Chain Life Index” of around 10% of the DID ZVMX. I think you have put on the wrong chain and it may well be wearing prematurely.

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using a non-O-ring chain is a simple newbie mistake.  i tried one once and soon decided never again. it's a pain to spend over $100-$140 for a chain or up to $225 for chain and sprockets, but motorcycling isn't usually cheap, and you'll be readjusting that crap chain frequently.

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On 11/7/2020 at 12:33 PM, Cogswell said:

Double check your swingarm pinch bolt.  IIRC it should be 54 foot pounds.

 

Did you change sprockets?   Worn sprockets can cause rapid chain wear, though I've not heard of them roaching a chain in just 1500 km. Regardless,  always best to change them when installing a new chain. 

Yes I use the maintenance guide religiously. I replaced everything, even the chain guide in front. It was worn too.

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21 hours ago, interceptor69 said:

You paid $300 for a rivet tool?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

I bought the big motion pro tool and the diamond shaped anvils were an extra $60. I may have been okay with the smaller version.

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2 hours ago, squirrelman said:

using a non-O-ring chain is a simple newbie mistake.  i tried one once and soon decided never again. it's a pain to spend over $100-$140 for a chain or up to $225 for chain and sprockets, but motorcycling isn't usually cheap, and you'll be readjusting that crap chain frequently.

I went cheap on the chain to compensate for the expensive tool, but I thought it would last a few thousand kilometers. You're right about readjusting frequently, I just went  for a 300km ride and it's loose again. Not as much as this morning mind you, but still.

P.S. I am a newbie! lol

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16 hours ago, VFR78 said:

You need a VO at least or a VX3 if possible. I use a ZVM-X, which is a major overkill. VX3 for me next time.

I'll take note for next time. I know I was being cheap, but thought that the 530 could take a little abuse.

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Thanks for all your replies people. Lesson learned. I just crashed, so the chain is now the least of my worries. Hit a patch of sand on a corner, wasn't going fast, well too fast for the corner. I was wearing full gear, so no injuries, but the bike is pretty beat up. I felt a wobble on the way home, so I did more than scratch the fairings. I'm at a loss as to what to do. But obviously something is bent.

Bummed.

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ouch, sorry to hear about crash!

 

Most likely nothing bent, just misaligned. Probably fork-blades are no longer parallel due to twisted triple-clamps from bar impact. Just lift/hang front-end loosen triple-clamps and steerer bolt to relax everything and re-align fork blades (plates of glass really helps). Then re-tighten everything back up. Wobble should be gone now.

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  • 4 months later...
On 11/8/2020 at 11:59 PM, DannoXYZ said:

ouch, sorry to hear about crash!

 

Most likely nothing bent, just misaligned. Probably fork-blades are no longer parallel due to twisted triple-clamps from bar impact. Just lift/hang front-end loosen triple-clamps and steerer bolt to relax everything and re-align fork blades (plates of glass really helps). Then re-tighten everything back up. Wobble should be gone now.

I did what you said and also loosened the steering bearing as I had over tightened when I installed it. It seems to be riding better now! All is well, with the exception of the paint! 😄

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