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Blinking ABS light, power drain, ignition issue.


tb1570

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Greetings, fellow VFRs! So let me get right to the point. I ride an '02 VFR ABS (sixth gen). Yesterday, at the end of a full day's riding, which itself was the end of a four-day trip in the Adirondacks, as I was literally pulling down the last road before my driveway, the ABS light came on and started blinking. After I rode just a little further, I started to notice that the headlights seemed to be getting dimmer. Then, for a second, I thought that the ABS light had stopped blinking, However, I slowly realized that it too was dimming. As I pulled into my community's rather long "driveway", I realized that the lights were dimming more & more quickly. By the time I reached my carport, they were basically out. When I cut the engine and then tried to restart the bike, nothing. However, the lights and the computer did come back on, but the bike wouldn't turn over. No sound from the starter/ignition, either. The weather that day was cold and clear, but I did encounter a little rain on the previous day.

 

So my question is, obviously, what's going on? At first blush, I thought perhaps it was a malfunction of the ABS system that was causing some sort of short or power drain. But the more I thought about it, I started to think that perhaps it was some sort of electrical/power problem and that the ABS going out was merely another symptom, like the dimming of the lights. I went back out the next day (today) and tried to start it again, but same thing-- lights turn on and computer fires up, but nothing when I press the ignition. I did notice that the ignition switch seems to stick for about half a second after I press it, though. Main headlight goes out too when I press the start button, as it should. I have looked at and tightened the battery cables and terminals, and I've switched the kill/power switch back and forth several times. Also perhaps worthy of note, I had the stator go out, and replaced, last year, but that was completely different than this. If this were a car, I would think alternator, because while at highway speed the electrical/power system seemed to be fine, but as soon as I started to slow down, the problems began. And the slower I went, the dimmer the lights got.

 

I'm heading back out to check the fuses after posting this, but I don't really see how it could be that. Anyone have any thoughts/suggestions? I'm hoping it's an easy fix as I'd really like to get a few more days in this year before putting her up for the winter.

 

Thanks a bunch, in advance, doctors.

TWD.

Trevor Burke

Vermont

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First thing I would check is the charging voltage, but you may need to charge up the battery (or use a jumper cable) to get the bike started. Certianly I would be looking first at the RR (charge voltage should be 13.5-14.5V at 5000rpm) and the battery (it might have an internal short) before going any further. Your bike is showing signs of low voltage for re-starting so at the very least the battery is fully discharged, the question is why. The ABS light is almost certainly a symptom not a cause, I was running my FSC600 for a few months on battery power only (with a dead stator) and as the battery reached a critical low point, I would get all sorts of random warning lights like low oil pressure and high water temp.

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Agree with Terry. Try charging the battery then take it to your nearest auto store and have it load tested. It does sound like your battery has died. Then, if you do need a new battery, once fitted make sure your charging voltage is correct as Terry mentioned.

Check the state of the 2 Main fuses at and next to the Starter Relay. Make sure there is no overheated wiring, burnt or discolored fuses in this area. 

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First things first: Thank you Terry & Grum!

 

Second: Update

     So, when I went out yesterday to check connections and fuses, I thought I'd give starting it another shot and, surprise of surprises, it started right up! I was pretty shocked, so let it run a bit, revved the engine, etc. Then turned it off, flipped all the switches back & forth and started it again, several times. Each time it fired right up and the ignition switch did not seem to be sticking any more. So, obviously the next step was a quick spin down the driveway and around the block. No problems the first half mile or so, but then the exact same problems started happening again, beginning w the flashing ABS light and dimming lights. This time, however, the throttle control started to go out as well. Could not maintain steady low RPM throttle-- if I tried to give it even a little gas it went from nearly stalling due to low RPM, to lurching forward like I had just cracked the throttle at even the slightest throttle input. To try to steady it out a bit I tried to shift into 2nd gear, at which point she completely cut out and would not re-start. I was able to push her home, but she would not start again, though she did try to turn over. I let her sit over night and went out there this morning w a friend and his voltage meter. Battery was low-- around 11ish, and dropped down to 3-4 when trying to start. Am charging the battery tonight and will take another shot tomorrow. Actually would be pleased if it was just the battery-- that's an easy enough fix (though the life on the current battery would be disappointingly low: about 15 mos/20,000 mi.) How can I be sure, though? Is there a chance my stator is on its way out again? Or something else?

 

Thanks again, gents. Really appreciate your time and energy.

TB

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The attached guide will walk you through figuring out where a fault lies. With the bike running and the battery charged, at 5000rpm you should see 13.5-14.5V across the battery terminals. Less than that and the battery won't be topped up, and more than that can cook th battery (and other  more expensive electrical components. A low voltage could be either the RR or stator, high voltage will be RR only. 

 

You can test the stator by unplugging the 3-pin plug and checking the resistance between any two pins (should be between 0.5 and 2 ohms), and checking resistance from any pin to earth is infinite (no short circuit). Now switch to AC voltage and test between the pins with the engine running at 5000rpm, should be more than 50V across any two pins, check all three. If you get this far, the stator is OK.

 

Batteries do fail early sometimes, and in my experience seem more prone to do so when hot; life in a VFR sitting right above the rear headers can be tough I guess. The low voltage certainly sounds like a battery fault.

fault-finding-diagram.pdf

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Good luck with troubleshooting your electrickery gremlins.

 

My '09 VTec's stator failed a few years ago during a trip through Colorado. I managed to get home by pulling fuses for headlights and recharging the battery each night. See below.

 

As well as checking your stator and rec/reg, and their wiring and connectors, look at your starter relay (adjacent to the battery). Charging power from the the rec/reg goes through it to get to the battery. A bad connection there means no/reduced charge for the battery. Make sure to pull off the rubber boot covering it in order to see the terminals.

 

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And....charge the battery, then have it load tested!

Battery terminal voltage is not a good indicator of battery capacity, its ability to deliver cranking amps.

Once that's sorted go about checking your charging voltage and main 30amp fuse inspection as suggested.

Good luck.

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Thanks a bunch, fellas. It's a work in progress, but I've established that the battery is def okay, but getting no charge whatsoever under throttle. Connections and fuses I've checked look good, but now we're getting beyond my capabilities in time, space, equipment/tools and knowledge. If I had the space & tools to wrench on it over the winter, I'd love to, but unfortunately I do not. And with snow forecast later this week, I'm afraid I'm running out of time before I have to put her in storage for the winter. It's a real bummer b/c I was really hoping to get in a few more days of riding before saying goodbye for the year. That, and now I have no idea how much this whole ordeal is gonna cost me. Almost 50,000 miles on the bike-- I'm starting to wonder when it might be time to throw in the towel on this bike... Seems like every year now it's something major, and expensive. And that's on top of almost a thousand bucks a year on tires (usually two sets a year). Bike sat in storage at my dad's place in Florida for 10+ years while I was overseas, and that did her no great service either-- lots of corrosion. Anyway, waa, waa, waa, right? It was a great year of riding up here in northern New England, with no major incidents-- can't ask for much more than that. So thanks again, everyone. Really appreciate your help.

 

@Lorne That's pretty much what my stator looked like last year. Are VFRs known for that?

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10 hours ago, tb1570 said:

That's pretty much what my stator looked like last year. Are VFRs known for that?

 

They certainly have a reputation for failed stators and rec/regs. Whether or not VFRs are more prone than other bikes I cannot say. I'm not convinced anyone knows the root cause of the failures. 

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On 10/30/2020 at 3:37 AM, Lorne said:

 

They certainly have a reputation for failed stators and rec/regs. Whether or not VFRs are more prone than other bikes I cannot say. I'm not convinced anyone knows the root cause of the failures. 

Is this why I feel like I've heard a lot about problems w/ their electrical systems?

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On 10/30/2020 at 6:37 PM, Lorne said:

 

They certainly have a reputation for failed stators and rec/regs. Whether or not VFRs are more prone than other bikes I cannot say. I'm not convinced anyone knows the root cause of the failures. 

Believe there are three issues at play. Firstly the inefficient shunt type R/R. Secondly the lack of oil flow over the stator to dissipate the heat from the windings.

Thirdly, poor electrical connectors between these devices also haven't helped .

All of these issues have been addressed with the 8gen and have not heard of a single stator failure on an 8gen.

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