Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted September 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2020 So as I'm taking apart the plastic, the drops I was hoping were coming from my garage ceiling are unfortunately coming from the clutch master cylinder. I think this is the part set I need: Honda 22886-MAT-E01 Piston Set https://www.amazon.com/Honda-HONDA-22886-MAT-E01-PISTON-SET/dp/B00I87BZC4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=22886-MAT-E01&qid=1601264964&s=automotive&sr=1-1 Can someone confirm that this is all I likely need, or let me know if there's a better way. Well, short of upgrading anyway, not looking to get into clutch conversions or something with all the other stuff I need to do right now. Mostly just don't want to leak fluid on the new plastic when I install it 😄 As for why it's leaking...aside from age, I suspect one of the two people who owned it after I sold it overfilled the reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted September 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2020 I wouldn’t do the K&L kit, as the OEM Kit is available for the same price. And, you need to rebuild the slave cylinder at the same time. I’d bet there’s going to be sludge inside it. While you have the slave off, you need to pull the clutch pushrod, clean, and very lightly grease it. All this will make a big difference in your clutch actuation. My pic is from Babbitt’s online and shows all the OEM part numbers. The kit for the master cylinder is there, the “cup“ is the slave piston seal, the seal is the pushrod seal, and the gasket is for where the slave mounts to the cover. That should be everything you need. Most dealers will price-match legit, online sources like Babbitt’s, which will save you on Babbitt’s shipping charges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted September 28, 2020 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2020 Thanks! I will do this in phases, as I'm in an apartment garage for now. I'll tackle the master cylinder leak just to protect my paint, but come back to the slave cylinder once I'm in San Diego and can really go nuts taking the bike apart 😄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted September 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2020 The slave is easy enough. Just keep plenty of rags around it and drip pan under it, when you undo the banjo because the fluid in the hose will drain out. Since you’ll have the master cylinder off, now is the time to do the slave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted September 28, 2020 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2020 Yeeeaaaah the level of effort doesn't bother me at all, it's more of a "What can I get away with in the middle of the night" kind of question. 😄 Working on the clutch circuit twice doesn't bother me too much, as I do plan on taking the bike mostly apart once I'm in CA. But I do have all the parts on order so maybe I will push through! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2020 4 hours ago, ducnut said: The slave is easy enough. Just keep plenty of rags around it and drip pan under it, when you undo the banjo because the fluid in the hose will drain out. Since you’ll have the master cylinder off, now is the time to do the slave. If you keep the lever pulled in (use a bungee or cable tie) then you only lose a tiny amount of fluid from the very end of the hose end. The same applies to brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted September 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Terry said: If you keep the lever pulled in (use a bungee or cable tie) then you only lose a tiny amount of fluid from the very end of the hose end. The same applies to brakes. He’s gotta’ rebuild the master, so it’ll be an open-ended hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted September 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2020 6 minutes ago, ducnut said: He’s gotta’ rebuild the master, so it’ll be an open-ended hose. Well gravity will definitely be allowing that hose to drain fully then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted October 7, 2020 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 7, 2020 Got it all apart and clean...meaning I took all the parts off the bike in the middle of the night and brought them up to my kitchen to rebuild today 😄 As far as lubricating the rest of the clutch rod, the service manual says nothing about it other than silicone grease at the piston end. What do you guys do for the rest of the rod heading through to the clutch side? Internet forums say "anything will do" so I am thinking silicone will work all the way, not knowing what the other seals are made of but assuming rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted October 7, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted October 7, 2020 Yes. Anything will do. Thoroughly clean it and a VERY light coat of grease on the rod is all you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted October 7, 2020 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 7, 2020 Perfect, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted October 8, 2020 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 8, 2020 Got everything cleaned out...both cylinders were pretty awful. The master cylinder was so deteriorated and full of solidified brake fluid I'm not sure how it was working. That parts list was dead on and I wouldn't have ordered each of those little parts figuring it out myself - thanks! But...of course, somehow I lost one of the hose bolts and its washers. Argh! So it'll be a couple days till I find out how much better the clutch actuation is. Meanwhile, back to re-installing bodywork! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ducnut Posted October 8, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted October 8, 2020 Yeah, that’s par for the course on these bikes. Most owners never touch fluids and the slave cylinder being at the bottom of the system and subjected to a lot of heat seems to get the worst of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ShipFixer Posted October 9, 2020 Author Member Contributer Share Posted October 9, 2020 Well, I changed the clutch fluid when I owned it the first time 🙃 Both were gunky but the master cylinder and reservoir were really, really bad. I can see why the rear seal had given up and a lot of excess pressure would head that way. Since I bought the bike when it was at least a year old, I kind of wonder if it hasn't always been a little this way. Since I lost the stupid bolt I am stuck waiting to find out. 🤦♂️ Should have genuine Honda bolts soon, but I got some after market ones from Amazon today I will give a shot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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