Changing the three locks

[Loubloub]

My ignition switch has seen better days. I tried DW40 and oil to lube them, but seventeen years of wear is what it is. So I went to the dealer and they want close to $300 for the ignition and that doesn't include the gas tank and the sattle lock! No thank you. While I was there the sales clerk told me they had had a client who wanted to change his locks and Honda apparently hides some kind of anti-theft device in the lock. So I was basically resigned to the idea of putting up with rough insert until failure and then forking out loads of cash.
 

While looking for something else unrelated, I see a complete lock set, ignition switch, gas cap and saddle lock for less than $9 on Amazon, I figure, I got nothing to lose, well maybe $9, but it didn't seem like a big deal, because most kits are going from $35 to $75, so I bought it. I finally got the top plate off the bike and before I reasemble everything I give it a shot, nothing. The bike turns over, but won't run. Honda's anti-theft technology. To make a story short (yeah right) I compare the two ignition switches and they look pretty similar, so I decide to try and swap just the cylinder, I get luck it works!


On the left is the new cylinder with the original Honda bottom half. There are three security Torx holding the two halves together and they used lock-tite to secure them, be prepared to swear and cuss, they're hard to remove.

 

My second chalenge was the fit. The new cylinder head is not exactly the same size so the holes didn't line up. I had to file the lock a bit to get the holes to align.When you put it all together, make sure the wires are secured to the side with a tiewrap, otherwise you won't be able to lower the top plate back down into it's place.

I don't know if this is clear, but it's pretty straight forward. I got the instructions on how to remove the top bridge from the Service Manual that I found on this forum. The only thing I would add is that the bridge might not wat to come out. I tried prying with a screwdriver, I have several pullers, but since the shaft is off center they were useless. I ended up getting a rubber mallet and giving it a whack until I saw some movement, from there, I applied some lube and let it work. I just kept wiggling by hand.

I recommend removing the cowls and lifting the tank to remove the handlebars, don't want to scratch the paint!

Here's the link to the lock kit:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07M97Y7LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$8.39 shipping included with Prime.

[Grum]

6 hours ago, Loubloub said:

The bike turns over, but won't run. Honda's anti-theft technology. To make a story short (yeah right) I compare the two ignition switches and they look pretty similar, so I decide to try and swap just the cylinder, I get luck it works!

Ah yes I see you have the Pink wire on your Ignition Switch. Honda basic anti theft security.

There is a Zener diode (3.9v) under your switch, and sends 9volts to the ECM via that pink wire. If the ECM sees 0v or 12v on the wire then the bike will NOT fire up, the ECM is looking for 9v to enable. 

[Loubloub]

7 hours ago, Grum said:

Ah yes I see you have the Pink wire on your Ignition Switch. Honda basic anti theft security.

There is a Zener diode (3.9v) under your switch, and sends 9volts to the ECM via that pink wire. If the ECM sees 0v or 12v on the wire then the bike will NOT fire up, the ECM is looking for 9v to enable. 

So ther's a way to bypass and avoid tinkering next time?

 

[Grum]

15 hours ago, Loubloub said:

So ther's a way to bypass and avoid tinkering next time?

 

Never done it but provided you can supply 9v to that Pink wire, then it doesn't need to be at the ignition switch. You could most likely patch into any switched 12v line, use a 3.9v zener then feed that 9v to the Pink wire near the ECM. That could have got you around your switch issue! But keeping things standard is a better option and you've been able to do that by fitting the new key barrel to the original switch assembly.

 

So something to keep in mind with your bike. If you ever have a dead bike and everything looks fine and dammed if you can work out why, check that Pink Wire for 9v.

 

Cheers.

[DannoXYZ]

Just ran across this on another forum. Here's picture of zener-diode installed on factory switch. Black-end/stripe faces +12v input power. Output end goes to pink wire and supplies +9v to keep ECU happy that it's not being hot-wired.

 

There have been many people who've tried to install diode on non-OEM ignition-switch, got it backwards, and bike won't work. It's not resistor like  on Kawasakis,  but diode and orientation matters.

 

 

Some background on how zener-diodes work: https://www.circuitbread.com/tutorials/what-is-a-zener-diode-and-how-does-it-work

 

If you don't want to worry about which way diode connects, use 1k-ohm resistor 1/4w instead.