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VFR800 Stator??


Jdude

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Hi!! My - 00 vfr doesnt charge and battery was so empty that i couldnt even fired up and i charge the battery over night. Today i start to search reason why it wont charge battery. First i fired up and measure voltage from battery. When starting voltage goes from 13v to 11v so reason is not battery. Voltage didnt rise at all when but some throttle and i bull stator wires of the regulator and measured those 3 pins of those yellow cables. Nothing!! Everyone was 0 Volts. How is that even possible!! I think stator is gone.. Or did i measured something wrong.?? Long story but im asking is there some good stators to buy and do i have to replace magneto at same time  and why?? My bike has 94k kilometres at the moment.. Theres a pic from voltage regulator and i think that is not orginal 🤔Im a bit pissed cause season is on and have to replace stator. Couple weeks ago i fit pipes properly couse i get last summer bad guality pipes and they didnt fit right. And now this 🤬

 

Thank you allready!! 

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Hyyva paiva!

 

 

The right order:

 

Ignore the fact you charged the battery overnight; have it LOAD tested at a garage. For I suspect your battery IS toast

 

Then WHAT did you measure over the yellow wires and WHERE?

 

Do the series of measurements both on a COLD and HOT engine

 

The resistance is measure on the yellow wires while unhooked from the regulator

The Vac (alternating current, not direct current Vdc) is measured over the yellow wires, while still unplugged from the regulator. If you battery is full/good the engine should run fine

Measure at idle and at 5,000RPM.

 

Let the engine heat up really well (you can always hook up to a car battery) and repeat the above.

 

 

PS do poost up in the welcome section with a picture of your bike so we know you really exist.... :goofy:

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Hi jdude,

Your RR ( voltage regulator ) is OEM and most likely 20yrs old.

if i am not mistaken it is the second version of 3 that came out for the vfr800fi.

it is most probably on its way out, unfortunately. 

i had the same on my 2000 yr model. had to replace it this year too.

Good luck. 

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47 minutes ago, Dutchy said:

Hyyva paiva!

 

 

The right order:

 

Ignore the fact you charged the battery overnight; have it LOAD tested at a garage. For I suspect your battery IS toast

 

Then WHAT did you measure over the yellow wires and WHERE?

 

Do the series of measurements both on a COLD and HOT engine

 

The resistance is measure on the yellow wires while unhooked from the regulator

The Vac (alternating current, not direct current Vdc) is measured over the yellow wires, while still unplugged from the regulator. If you battery is full/good the engine should run fine

Measure at idle and at 5,000RPM.

 

Let the engine heat up really well (you can always hook up to a car battery) and repeat the above.

 

 

PS do poost up in the welcome section with a picture of your bike so we know you really exist.... :goofy:

Thanks for messaging. You know finnish!! Great 👍😅. I measured those 3 wires on plug.  And ground i take anywhere what is touched by frame. There is round 2 volts any pins. Is there some other way because stator bulls straight volts.. Those should see somewhere. Engine was both. Gold and hot. Theres no differse. I am not an expert on electric and all my life iv been doing something else instead but sometimes you larn even you have too. Where should i measure voltages to be sure? In cars voltage is stable and if its under 13v you have problems.. Why vfr is different?? Cars only the alternator have both.. Regulator and "stator". Kind of.. 

 

55 minutes ago, Dutchy said:

Hyyva paiva!

 

 

The right order:

 

Ignore the fact you charged the battery overnight; have it LOAD tested at a garage. For I suspect your battery IS toast

 

Then WHAT did you measure over the yellow wires and WHERE?

 

Do the series of measurements both on a COLD and HOT engine

 

The resistance is measure on the yellow wires while unhooked from the regulator

The Vac (alternating current, not direct current Vdc) is measured over the yellow wires, while still unplugged from the regulator. If you battery is full/good the engine should run fine

Measure at idle and at 5,000RPM.

 

Let the engine heat up really well (you can always hook up to a car battery) and repeat the above.

 

 

PS do poost up in the welcome section with a picture of your bike so we know you really exist.... :goofy:

 

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1 minute ago, Jdude said:

Thanks for messaging. You know finnish!! Great 👍😅. I measured those 3 wires on plug.  And ground i take anywhere what is touched by frame. There is round 2 volts any pins. Is there some other way because stator bulls straight volts.. Those should see somewhere. Engine was both. Gold and hot. Theres no differse. I am not an expert on electric and all my life iv been doing something else instead but sometimes you larn even you have too. Where should i measure voltages to be sure? In cars voltage is stable and if its under 13v you have problems.. Why vfr is different?? Cars only the alternator have both.. Regulator and "stator". Kind of.. 

 

 

And yes. I send picture right away!! 😁 

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1 hour ago, Rob916 said:

Hi jdude,

Your RR ( voltage regulator ) is OEM and most likely 20yrs old.

if i am not mistaken it is the second version of 3 that came out for the vfr800fi.

it is most probably on its way out, unfortunately. 

i had the same on my 2000 yr model. had to replace it this year too.

Good luck. 

Ok.. I thougt that have been replaced cause there is some wire konected to tail lamp. Somekind extra wakeup wire i think what was i reading newer models have. Not orginal anyway. How did you end up that it is the problem?? It would be releave.. Easy to ghange and lot cheaper. Where did you byu this?? My opinion is that battery voltage should rise littlepitt when throtling.. Not lowering. Or when battery is gone, how you know that if voltage is around 11,5-12,5?? Its not good att all cause there is ligths and injection etc. I do not understand 🤔

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You're on the right track - you're charging voltage is too low.  But why it's too low needs to be determined.  5th gens are notorious for poor Rec / Regulators.  First though, you need to check the stator.  Separate the plug from the stator to the R/R (3 yellow wires) and probe all three pairs of pins from the stator with your meter set to ohms.  You should get no continuity to ground.  If you do on any of the 3 pins, the stator is done, you need to replace it.  If it passes that test the next step is to keep the connector separated and start the engine (jump it if the battery is dead - just do not connect the stator to the R/R for this test).  With the meter now set to AC Volts, check to see what the voltage is between each pair of pins.  At idle it may be around 15 or 20 volts. Rev the engine to 5,000 rpm and see if you get around 60 volts AC.  Repeat for the other 2 pairs of pins.  If you do not get those readings, the stator is done and you need to replace it. 

 

Once the stator is known good, plug the stator and R/R together (in the end a solder joint is better, but for testing purposes plug in is fine) and see what your charging voltage is.  If it's under 13.5 volts DC (around 14v or more is better), the R/R is done and you need to replace that.  Here's the tricky part.  If you find your charging voltage acceptable at idle but the voltage drops as rpm's increase to 5,000, your R/R is well on its way out, you also need to replace it.  The latter seems to be common on OEM 5th gen R/R's.  That is exactly what mine did - the voltage dropped as rpm came up.  After R/R replacement all was good - I get 14.4v at any rpm.  If you really want to do it right, go to Roadster Cycle .com and look up the newer model R/R units and forget the OEM R/R.   

 

Also, go through all your connectors and starter relay fuse to look for corrosion or melted connectors.  Repair as necessary. Once that's all done, solder your R/R to stator (yellow) wires and treat the rest of the connections and fuses with Oxgard (available on Amazon), and after load testing the battery as above, you should be good to go.  Do not use dielectric grease on your connectors - that is an insulator for sealing weather resistant connectors which your VFR does not have.

 

Don't feel too bad - charging issues are a part of owning a 5th gen.  Any long term owner has had to deal with it.  In the end it's all worth it. 

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20 hours ago, Jdude said:

Ok.. I thougt that have been replaced cause there is some wire konected to tail lamp. Somekind extra wakeup wire i think what was i reading newer models have. Not orginal anyway. How did you end up that it is the problem?? It would be releave.. Easy to ghange and lot cheaper. Where did you byu this?? My opinion is that battery voltage should rise littlepitt when throtling.. Not lowering. Or when battery is gone, how you know that if voltage is around 11,5-12,5?? Its not good att all cause there is ligths and injection etc. I do not understand 🤔

my voltage readings were perfect when the bike was cold and reved to 5000rpm. after 30 min of riding the voltage would drop to 10.5-11 at any rpm. ( no damaged / melted plugs, the bike only has 27000kms) i was lucky. 

i followed the tests outlined in this forum for the regulator and stator. i only bought a OEM '31600-MBG-306' regulator as a "temporary cheap solution" because i found it on ebay for 90$ shipped. Within the next 2 yrs i will purchase the better version from Roadster Cycle .com and solder the wires.

at the same time by precaution i replaced the stator ( the readings were okay) with this one that was mentioned on this site too. https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=vfr800 generator&PN=G52.html#SID=200 

 

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Dutchy and Cogswell offered some good suggestions.

 

On 8/12/2020 at 9:16 AM, Jdude said:

Voltage didnt rise at all when but some throttle

Before you spend money on any parts there are a couple of things worth knowing. The output of the rec/reg goes through the starter relay (adjacent to the battery) *before* going to the battery. Check the connections on your starter relay to ensure they are in good condition. 

 

On 8/12/2020 at 9:16 AM, Jdude said:

measured those 3 pins of those yellow cables. Nothing!!

And as Cogswell says, check that your meter is set to AC.

 

 

 

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Hello. I made some measurements yesterday and seems that the stator attleast is done 😔

 

Do you have good suggest where to buy stator? R/R im planning to order at david silver parts but stator is a bit challenge cause orginal costs 507€ and aftermarket stator are baddly qualifyded every forums what i find on internet. Seems like cheap and good doesnt fit on this part.. So. Good and desent priced place to order stator?? Or maybe some of you could help me and buy orginal stator and send it to me cause i know there are lots of places to buy orginal lot cheaper than 507€. 

 

Cheers. 

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Measure the diametre of the stator as Honda fitted larger ones in 2000. If your bile is a 1999 model, first registered in 2000 you might end up with the wrong size

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http://www.siccamasales.nl/nl/electrex-g180

Or

http://www.siccamasales.nl/nl/electrex-g52

Depending on year.

 

 

This company is recommended by a Dutch vfr guru who services vfrs. I trust Johan's judgement. Get a new regulator when in doubt....

http://www.siccamasales.nl/nl/electrex-rr69

 

 

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Ok. Thank you. Mine is registered on april 1999 so i think the bike is pure -99 or late -98. I made some investigations both yearmodels and orginal parts catalogs gives different numbers between 1999 and 2000 and newer one has different connector plug so i ended that solution my bike is 1999 or atleast older than 2000, I try to find information when Honda reveals next years models but i dont think that they could sold 2000 model and its registered in finland allready aprill. Snowmobiles reveals new models march to may and in here you could buy/order it rightaway but you get it as late as November or December.

 

-J-

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My suggestion would be you measure the old one, take a picture and send a mail to siccama. They will understand English and be able to make sure you get the correct part.

Mailing to Finland should pose no problem.

 

Mailing to the Netherlands is no problrm either 😉

IMG-20200723-WA0003.thumb.jpeg.6162f3b2722850076a8cf23b63e9a07c.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Dutchy said:

http://www.siccamasales.nl/nl/electrex-g180

Or

http://www.siccamasales.nl/nl/electrex-g52

Depending on year.

 

 

This company is recommended by a Dutch vfr guru who services vfrs. I trust Johan's judgement. Get a new regulator when in doubt....

http://www.siccamasales.nl/nl/electrex-rr69

 

 

Wow!! Could those be so cheap and still good guality?? Wondering how Honda explain that high price in simple part.. Honda stator are apparently made by Hitachi. Mine is that smaller one cause there is both connectors along and larger one has the wrong plug..

 

-J-

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On 8/12/2020 at 5:16 PM, Jdude said:

Hi!! My - 00 vfr doesnt charge and battery was so empty that i couldnt even fired up and i charge the battery over night. Today i start to search reason why it wont charge battery. First i fired up and measure voltage from battery. When starting voltage goes from 13v to 11v so reason is not battery. Voltage didnt rise at all when but some throttle and i bull stator wires of the regulator and measured those 3 pins of those yellow cables. Nothing!! Everyone was 0 Volts. How is that even possible!! I think stator is gone.. Or did i measured something wrong.?? Long story but im asking is there some good stators to buy and do i have to replace magneto at same time  and why?? My bike has 94k kilometres at the moment.. Theres a pic from voltage regulator and i think that is not orginal 🤔Im a bit pissed cause season is on and have to replace stator. Couple weeks ago i fit pipes properly couse i get last summer bad guality pipes and they didnt fit right. And now this 🤬

 

Thank you allready!! 

DSC_1037.JPG

That is the OEM reg/rec, made by Shindengen for Honda.

 

This is the OEM replacement  for the 2000 VFR:

P1000917x.thumb.jpg.8145d8d3a54474b093c7bccaccaff0f8.jpg

 

I haven't heard of many of the upgraded units actually failing, but the original ones fail quite a lot!

 

However, it's generally considered safer to upgrade to a proper MOSFET or series-type reg/rec than to trust that Honda got it right with the upgraded OEM unit.  

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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Thanks all for your quotes.. Im ordering FH020AA upgrade kit from roadcycles. Lot cheaper and better than oem replacement R/R s. Takes several weeks to deliver in here but season is nearly over anyway and there is whole winter to put bike together and install R/R and stator + voltmeter. Next summer i wont be doing anything else than DRIVE!!

 

Cheers!!

 

-J-

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