Ivan77 Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 Hi, happy new owner of Vfr800 5th Gen, could not find answers on this problem in the forum. Only have one low beam light working, the right side don't work, have tried changing bulb but no luck, have cleaned the handlebar switch. Can this be a relay issue? The high beam works on both sides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted August 8, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2020 8 hours ago, Ivan77 said: Hi, happy new owner of Vfr800 5th Gen, could not find answerson this problemin the forum so. Only have one low beam light working, the right side don't work, have tried changing bulb but no luck, have cleaned the handlebar switch. Can this be a relay issue? The high beam works on both sides Hi Ivan. You need to have a good look at the globe socket, make sure there is no corrosion. Also check with a multimeter that you have 12v on the White/Black wire. Measure between the White/Black wire and the Green wire on the globe socket.(Ignition to ON, low beam selected). It can't be a Relay issue because your Left side low beam is working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 9, 2020 Author Share Posted August 9, 2020 Hi Grum, thanks for the diagram and suggestion, will try it today after rain stops! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 10, 2020 Author Share Posted August 10, 2020 Had 12v and 16,3v when engine started Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted August 11, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 11, 2020 4 hours ago, Ivan77 said: Had 12v and 16,3v when engine started DANGER! You should never see 16.3v. That voltage can do damage to your Fuel Injection system as well as prematurely blowing globes, and battery damage. You should not see above 15v with engine running, normally you should see around 13.5 to 14.5v. You most likely have a R/R fault if you are seeing such high voltage. Measure your charge voltage at the battery, what voltage do you read with engine running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted August 11, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 11, 2020 +1 16.3V is killing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Thanks for the helping hand! Late reply due to change of address, I tryed to change bulbe from working side to no working side, that didn't do anything difference so I put it back to the working side and now the low beam light on that side stopped working too, checked the bulbe and it looked fine. I may have messured wrong at 16.3v started but now I have to find my missing multimeter to recheck, if it's the same, I have to check the regulator/rectifier. I just got some Luxtar Q1 LEDs and Wil put those in after voltage check. Also now my indicators don't work, the fuse goes when I switch the ignition on. Have cleaned and checked the switches, took of all indicator connections to the bulbs, and relay off and the fuse goes every time... So I guess something is wrong with the R/R or am I in the wrong place? Sorry for my lack of knowledge 😃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted August 24, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 24, 2020 8 hours ago, Ivan77 said: Also now my indicators don't work, the fuse goes when I switch the ignition on. Have cleaned and checked the switches, took of all indicator connections to the bulbs, and relay off and the fuse goes every time... So I guess something is wrong with the R/R or am I in the wrong place? Sorry for my lack of knowledge 😃 Hi Ivan. If you are blowing Fuse C 10amp. This also supplies the Horn and Front/Rear Brake switches. A common issue with the 5gen to blow that fuse is the Front Brake Switch contacts shorting to the Brake Master cylinder. So check the Front Brake Switch. Let's know how you get on. You really need to confirm you are OR are not seeing that 16.3v with engine running, that's a dangerous voltage. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 On 8/25/2020 at 12:34 AM, Grum said: Hi Ivan. If you are blowing Fuse C 10amp. This also supplies the Horn and Front/Rear Brake switches. A common issue with the 5gen to blow that fuse is the Front Brake Switch contacts shorting to the Brake Master cylinder. So check the Front Brake Switch. Let's know how you get on. You really need to confirm you are OR are not seeing that 16.3v with engine running, that's a dangerous voltage. Good Luck. Hi Grum, thanks for the reply, i can now confirm that iam seeing 16,3 and actually up to 17v when i go up from idle, i bougt the bike not long ago and i measured around 14,6v at 5000rpm so i gues the R/R is faulty? I see its a Tourmax R/R thats on it now, is that the original? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted August 27, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 27, 2020 Tournax is aftermarket. Anything >15,3Vdc will kill your battery. So yes your RR is most likely kaputt, but also measure your altenators resistance (Ohm) and alternating current Vac output. Check connectors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 13 minutes ago, Dutchy said: Tournax is aftermarket. Anything >15,3Vdc will kill your battery. So yes your RR is most likely kaputt, but also measure your altenators resistance (Ohm) and alternating current Vac output. Check connectors Will do that, where is the best and easyest place to measure from, learning each day from you folks 😃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted August 27, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 27, 2020 You can measure the AC volts and the stator resistance at the 3-pin plug, 3 yellow wires, between the stator and RR, located on the left side, below the seat behind the side cover. AC volts should be up to 50V (when running) across any pair of connectors. Likewise resistance (not running) beyween any pair should be between 0.5 and 2 ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 18 hours ago, Terry said: You can measure the AC volts and the stator resistance at the 3-pin plug, 3 yellow wires, between the stator and RR, located on the left side, below the seat behind the side cover. AC volts should be up to 50V (when running) across any pair of connectors. Likewise resistance (not running) beyween any pair should be between 0.5 and 2 ohms. Thank you so much Terry! I measured 33V AC between the yellow wires when engine running and 0.3 ohms not running with ignition on. I checked the wires to the front brake switch, disconnected them and measured continuity from the right side of the turn signal/ brake light fuse to ground, still shorting. Also i have some pictures of the horror i found, i have found that when i disconnect the black wire that goes from R/R to brake switches there is no short to ground and the turn signals are working. I have ordered a new SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER KIT so i hope it will do the trick, but is 33V AC and 0.3 ohms from stator to little and it may be some trubble with it too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted August 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 28, 2020 33Vac is ok at idle, but at 5,000RPM I would expect to see 70+ Also measure with the engine (oil) hot. With a good/full battey and disconnected regulator your engine will run well for at least 39 minutes. Just switch off lights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted August 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 28, 2020 9 hours ago, Ivan77 said: Also i have some pictures of the horror i found, i have found that when i disconnect the black wire that goes from R/R to brake switches there is no short to ground and the turn signals are working. That's interesting! According to the wiring diagram, the Black wire from the R/R (voltage sense wire) should NOT go to the Brake/Indicator circuit Fuse C. It should be connected into Fuse D, the Starter, Engine Stop Sensor power.! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 20 hours ago, Dutchy said: 33Vac is ok at idle, but at 5,000RPM I would expect to see 70+ Also measure with the engine (oil) hot. With a good/full battey and disconnected regulator your engine will run well for at least 39 minutes. Just switch off lights Will try that, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 12 hours ago, Grum said: That's interesting! According to the wiring diagram, the Black wire from the R/R (voltage sense wire) should NOT go to the Brake/Indicator circuit Fuse C. It should be connected into Fuse D, the Starter, Engine Stop Sensor power.! That black wire goes to the other side of the bike and splits in to two, one goes down to brake switch and one goes to the front, not sure where cus of the harness but will look into it over the weekend. And you are right, the r/r is supposed to get signal from ignition switch to start doing its job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted August 29, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 29, 2020 10 hours ago, Ivan77 said: That black wire goes to the other side of the bike and splits in to two, one goes down to brake switch and one goes to the front, not sure where cus of the harness but will look into it over the weekend. And you are right, the r/r is supposed to get signal from ignition switch to start doing its job. You won't have to worry about the Black voltage sense wire once you fit the FH020AA R/R as it is not used. So you can just make sure the wire is well insulated from ground. If the insulated female spade connector as per your photo is the bike wiring side then the wire is already insulated, just tuck it aside. Wiring for FH020AA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan77 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 On 8/28/2020 at 5:55 PM, Dutchy said: 33Vac is ok at idle, but at 5,000RPM I would expect to see 70+ Also measure with the engine (oil) hot. With a good/full battey and disconnected regulator your engine will run well for at least 39 minutes. Just switch off lights Engine hot, I got 63Vac at 5000RPM from stator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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