Curlycol Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 My 1998 800fi clutch plates wont separate the day after ive used the bike.i have to put it in gear & rock it back & for quite a few times before it releases( it wont do it on the button)then its great for the rest of the day.i have stripped everything apart twice & bled it twice & its all straight & within tolerances oiled the plates & rubbed the steel plates with 1200 wet&dry to remove any friction plate material & both the clutch & side stand switches work perfectly.each time ive taken off the clutch off the plates are stuck together & come off the drum as one & are not that easy to separate.the oil im using is Power 1& regulary changed.something is not quite right & has me baffled,anyone got any clues to what might be happening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelF Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I'd try an automobile oil and if that's no help I'd buy new friction plates. Actually first I'd fan and abuse the clutch a fair bit, see if a hot supper helps at all. Maybe it's not breaking in properly. Is it a stock clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dangeruss Posted August 5, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2020 FWIW I just changed to Power 1 on my '98, it's on the original clutch and there were no changes to clutch performance after the oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curlycol Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 1 hour ago, JoelF said: I'd try an automobile oil and if that's no help I'd buy new friction plates. Actually first I'd fan and abuse the clutch a fair bit, see if a hot supper helps at all. Maybe it's not breaking in properly. Is it a stock clutch? Yeah the clutch is stock & the plates aren,t new.Just done 80 miles round the Peak District & once the inlial bond was broken the clutch is fine.Been stood for 1 1/2 hrs since i got back & its still fine ,seems when its stood overnite it just sieze,s again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelF Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I'd still be thinking about a hard break-in to get pad material transfer to the plates but another thing you can try is to tie the clutch lever overnight to allow oil to soak into the friction material. Eventually I'd try a ZDDP or even a moly additive like Liqui-Moly if nothing else is working. But maybe holding the clutch in will do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted August 5, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2020 4 hours ago, JoelF said: I'd try an automobile oil and if that's no help I'd buy new friction plates. Actually first I'd fan and abuse the clutch a fair bit, see if a hot supper helps at all. Maybe it's not breaking in properly. Is it a stock clutch? Only if the oil specs meet the ones mentioned in the manual.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted August 5, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2020 To visually check for clutch plate travel open the oil filler and pear inside and note what degree the plates follow the actuation of the lever... Keeping working on it until you note a quick and abundant spread... Here are the steps how to check for unwanted clutch drag with the engine running... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle at 212ºF (operating temp)... 3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear... 4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not... if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in... . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted August 5, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2020 3 hours ago, JoelF said: Eventually I'd try a ZDDP or even a moly additive like Liqui-Moly if nothing else is working. But maybe holding the clutch in will do it. There is no moly in Liqui-Moly... the proof is in the virgin oil sample... its a mechanical not an oil problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted August 5, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 5, 2020 1 hour ago, Dutchy said: Only if the oil specs meet the ones mentioned in the manual.... The majority of auto oils meet or exceed Honda's oil specs mentioned in the manual... the offical oil of VFRD is still 5w30 M1 Auto... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelF Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 There are some Liqui Moly MOS2 additives including one specifically for bikes. I have not looked at their basic engine oil. I've used it in cars thinking it might at least help lube the cam chain sliders. https://sichdatonline.chemical-check.de/Dokumente/566/1580_0006_07-11-2017_EN.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted August 6, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2020 Most major oil companies say to NEVER EVER add anything to their oils, because doing so will upset the oil’s carefully balanced additive package that was designed by their Chemical Engineers... I generally recommend that people choose a motor oil that is highly ranked to begin with, that doesn’t need any additional help. And to use that oil just as it comes, right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives at all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted August 6, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2020 Is there any grooving to the Clutch Outer Cage slots where the Clutch Discs locate into the cage? Using a file you can carefully file these grooves out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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