roxteady Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Hi there, First of al thanks for a fantastic forum with tonnes of great information! I was lubing my chain today and noticed that when turning the rear wheel on centre stand, from time to time there is some resistance. At the same time there is a squeeking sound, as can be heard in the attached video. Strange thing is, it is not happing on one wheel turn, nor one chain turn. I think the video gives a good idea about the issue as it is. If anyone could guide me towards what this could be, this would be highly appreciated. Regarding the shitty chain; yes it will be changed within short - just need to find the time 🙂 Cheers! IMG_4301.MP4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 rear brake caliper most likely needs a rebuild or at least a good cleaning as the piston my not be retracting well. note that some very minor squeaking may be normal but resistance is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 28, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted July 28, 2020 That chain looks terrible, it may have very worn dry links that are squeaking. Check it again when you have the new chain ready to go and the old one removed, spin the wheel again, check for the noise. You could drop the brake Caliper off, spin the wheel and confirm you have no wheel bearing issues. If you have any brake drag do as Squirrelman suggested, as well as making sure the slider pins are cleaned and lubricated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superfunkomatic Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Give the chain a thorough clean - it's really rusty and dirty looking. See if it turns better and rolls evenly through the sprockets. Could just be gunk and crap stuck in the links. My guess is that chain (and sprocket set) is done - it sounds like you have links that are not flexing and rolling as the chain rotates around the sprocket. I doubt it would be brakes or bearings - those really last a long time but maybe pull out the rear pads and have a look. If the previous owner let the chain get to that state you may have some maintenance to do on the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodRides Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Have you inspected and lubed the axle bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiwannafly Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Similar binding/not free spinning rear wheel with occasional click/graunch sound. Tracked down to a couple of links that were not freely rotating. Detailed chain clean, individual link lubrication on both inside and outside plates (was easiest to slip swingarm axle part way thru to free up LH foot peg and take endless riveted chain off completely). Worked stiff joints until freed up a bit. Result: better, but not great. Second look with chain off I noticed that most links has almost zero slop. But a couple had significant movement indicating that particular pin had worn. Solution: new chain. And if I was a good boy sprockets too as they tend to wear at similar rate as chain. If this is contributing to your problem you have to look pretty closely and thoroughly at every link on the chain. Really good cleaning helps to see any issues and keeps your coffee tasting like coffee and not chain grease that's transferred from your grubby hands to coffee cup (or beer). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiwannafly Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 As a follow up: measured the roller to roller distance over the whole chain. Difference between max and min distance was 2.778mm! Enough to make tensioning the chain a waste of time. Solution: new chain and probably sprockets too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiwannafly Posted February 19, 2021 Share Posted February 19, 2021 And eventually the new 530 (yeah a bit over the top, but same price as the 520) chain arrived. Cut off the old riveted master link and found the problem/s... 1: O rings were not O any more. Totally flat, paper thin, oval. 2: Master link pins - one was close to 0.200", the other about 0.180" - I say about because it was far from a symmetrical cylinder. 3: Roller hole: should be pretty close to the pin size? About enough space to hold a disco on acid. It shouldn't be egg shaped right? 4: Overall chain length longer than new by 0.700" Conclusions - most likely one or both O rings of one pin on master link failed and run dry for some extended period of time. The large clearance of pin and roller hole allowed the chain a considerable degree of movement all 3 dimensions. When the link was engaged on either sprocket the chain length was noticeably shorter (sprocket teeth took up slack of sloppy master link) than when link was not engaged - hence the wildly different chain tensions depending on the position of the master link. I'd say this was a timely discovery of just how bad the master link was. A worn out (stretched) chain will wear out sprockets pretty quick. A failed link potentially will take your leg off at very modest speeds. Best case scenario - it gets spat out the back leaving you stranded with really no easy fixes. Worst case (and more likely) - gets fouled up in the running gear somewhere making a very nasty twisted and broken metal birds nest. Listen to your chain. It should sing sweetly and quietly. As much as you might like heavy metal, this is not a compatible allegory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.