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Rayzrider

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Hey fellas, I needs some help with my fifth gen. 

The electrical system isn't grounding properly. 

Where's the orange connector located and where do you run the battery negative extra wire to the engine or the frame 

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Sorry guys the bike isn't engaging the starter just not a good connection between the battery and relay unit it's clicking ok

Don't want to start taking the fairings off until I know where the starter relay is located please can you let me Where's it located 

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18 minutes ago, Rayzrider said:

Sorry guys the bike isn't engaging the starter just not a good connection between the battery and relay unit it's clicking ok

Don't want to start taking the fairings off until I know where the starter relay is located please can you let me Where's it located 

Are your battery terminals tight? How old and what is the state of your battery? You can download the Service Manual from this site if you don't already have it.

 

image.png

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So all the electrics run on the left side 

It's a brand new battery has steel terminals it's all tight. 

I guess I'll need to take the tank off to get to the starter relay. I'll start with the grounding wires 

Thanks

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35 minutes ago, Rayzrider said:

So all the electrics run on the left side 

It's a brand new battery has steel terminals it's all tight. 

I guess I'll need to take the tank off to get to the starter relay. I'll start with the grounding wires 

Thanks

Remove the tank?? No need to remove tank to get to the Starter Relay! Hang on, you're saying you can hear the starter relay pull in but it's not cranking is that what your saying? Think you need to be more specific about your fault.

Here's the Starter Circuit!

 

image.png

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On 12 July 2020 at 9:48 PM, Rayzrider said:

The bikes relay clicked about 5 times then it cranks over and started OK 

I'm guessing it's either the earth or a loose positive wire 

Might pay to have a good look at the connector of the Starter Relay making sure the spade connectors are clean and no corrosion evident. You could also confirm you have a solid 12v at the Yellow/ Red wire while pressing the starter switch. And you could also check the Green/ Red ground wire by seeing if the relay pulls in any better via an in gear start, Sidestand up and clutch pulled in. Also have a good look at the Main Fuse A 30amp, check for heat stress and hi resistance spade connections. Refer the above drawing.

Just a thought!.......

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On 7/12/2020 at 9:48 PM, Rayzrider said:

The bikes relay clicked about 5 times then it cranks over and started OK 

I'm guessing it's either the earth or a loose positive wire 

So, anything to report?? Did you check the items mentioned?

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When you service any electrical connection first spray both female and male connectors with dielectric spray to clean them and then coat both with OxGard, which is conductive and has some micro-abrasive action to score the connectors for better conductivity.

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Hey guys is it normal that the bike doesn't fire up on the first attempt to start it when it's cold, it's OK once it's warmed up. I'm guessing that the fuel injection has something to do with it. All my other bike's just spontaneously fire up on the first press of the start. 

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What year 5G?  Does it have the manual starter valve lever on the left pod with the headlight and turn switches?   If so,  are you using it for cold starts?  It would be present on a 98 or 99 model year. 

 

If the lever is absent as on 00 / 01 models,  possibly the wax unit is defective.  It sets the starter valves based on coolant temp, and they do sometimes fail.  

 

Also,  hard starting and rough idle can be a symptom of starter valves that need to be synchronized.  It can be a DIY project for an intermediate to advanced DIY'er with a specialized tool - otherwise it's for a repair shop.

 

 

 

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15 hours ago, Rayzrider said:

Hey I am working on the bike can the battery plastic holder be removed I just can't get my hand into the starter relay 

Thanks Ray 

Yes. Do you have a Factory Service Manual(FSM)?  Instructions are on page 16-5.

 

The FSM is available for download on this site.

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The bike is 1999 yellow 800i has manual choke 

I have the pdf nothing beats getting in there and learning as you go. I hope the vfr gang help get the job done correctly. 

The bike cost me $4000 and only ridden it 3 times I've bought a new battery and R/R and waiting for my starter relay to come 

It's sitting there waiting for me to get into it and replace all the fucked up wiring. 

I am waiting for my multimeter to arrive I've never seen a diode on a fuse box. I feel sad that this awesome engineered bike was let down by the electrical engineers. 

 

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5 hours ago, Rayzrider said:

It's sitting there waiting for me to get into it and replace all the fucked up wiring. 

I am waiting for my multimeter to arrive I've never seen a diode on a fuse box. I feel sad that this awesome engineered bike was let down by the electrical engineers

Mate...Seriously!!! If all your wiring is f'd up suggest you talk to the previous owner. Based on your previous comments I don't know that Its fair to criticise Honda stating "electrical engineers" had let down the "awesome engineered bike". I agree on the point of an awesome engineered bike, it's electrical design was most likely the best FOR THE TIME IT WAS DESIGNED. Sure, compared to modern day techniques it falls short on a couple of issue and those issues can be fairly easily sorted. The 5gen, well cared for, is a highly prized and reliable motorcycle and thus the reason for its excellent resale value.

"diode on a fuse box" if you know why it's needed and that it fits neatly into the fuse box, easily accessible, then you'll understand it was excellent "electrical engineer" work by Honda!

Good luck sorting your bike issues, whatever they may be.

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U sure no prior owner did some "modifications"?

 

This is what I encountered in my RC51's tail....

IMG-20190626-WA0004.thumb.jpeg.5342e50ed24718d104f6423b06264465.jpeg

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11 hours ago, Rayzrider said:

Duchi it just has scolding marks around the fuses just on the brink of melting 

Fuses? Sorry, what fuses?

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Assuming the original wiring, scorch marks at connectors are usually a sign of corrosion of the connector pin/socket; the corrosion causes resistance, the resistance generates heat, then the plastic of the plug body starts to melt or burn. Without corrosion, there is no heat generated in a healthy connector.

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