Luckyhooky15 Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Hi all, Did a bit of quarantine work to the bike, it’s a 2000 year. Gave it some fresh new bits and it repaid me by killing its odometer.. It doesn’t prime when ignition is on nor move when the engine is running.. I gave up and it went to the garage and after a week of testing they came to the conclusion that everything was fine and it had to be the odometer unit itself that was faulty. Now I’ve seen replacement clocks, £220 ouch! Ive also seen a replacement odometer unit at £25, better! Has anyone else had this problem? I find it weird and hard to believe the odometer would just fail, literally everything else works as it should.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BorderViffer Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Mine has done this. All digits show correctly but don't change or do occasionally but not consistently. The speedo works fine. I took the plunge and bought a replacement and I now have the same problem with this one. I'm afraid I've no advice, just a shared problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinez Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 Similar problem here. One day I noticed my odometer shows no numbers at all anymore. When turning the key the lcd unit fires up completely including the odometer numbers showing 188888, but then the odometer is just blank. No numbers at all. The day trip counter work fine as do the clock and fuel meter. just the lcd part odometer turns blank after ignition on. Weird... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted January 2, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2021 The odometer needs to see the speed input, shared by the speedometer. There is a good chance of a corroded or broken copper track on the Instrument Panel PCB. However its interesting to see that Martinez's trip meter A is displaying 25.3kms. I wonder if this updates while riding???? You need to check at the back of the panel, there are 3 screws that connect the Speedometer to the PCB tracks one of these will be for the speed input, this must also go across to the lcd for the odometer. Using a multimeter on ohms or buzzer mode you must ensure you have continuity on the copper track that goes from the Speedometer across to the lcd connection on the pcb. These panels generally can suffer badly from corroded broken tracks. If you do find a break, its a case of carefully soldering a bridge wire to join the track. Attached picture shows corroded tracks in the lower section of the panel. You can also see the three screws which are possibly for the speedo on the right side. Ignore the red text as this panel had broken tracks causing lighting problems. The 6 screws to the left are for the lcd. If you look closely some of the lcd tracks find its way to the other side near the speedo via the lower middle section of the panel this is where most corrosion occurs as can be seen. Attached circuit diagram section shows the interconnection between the Speedometer and odometer. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted January 3, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2021 Is the ODO data kept in the ECU or in the guage pod? I ask b/c with key initially on it displays then goes blank - wondering if that indicates that the connection on the board is ok (LCD is good) then when the initial activation is complete it's not receiving the ODO data. Am I full of it? I'd like to understand this better . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted January 3, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2021 1 hour ago, Cogswell said: Is the ODO data kept in the ECU or in the guage pod? I ask b/c with key initially on it displays then goes blank - wondering if that indicates that the connection on the board is ok (LCD is good) then when the initial activation is complete it's not receiving the ODO data. Am I full of it? I'd like to understand this better . . . Hi Cogs. Good question you ask. I am sure ODO data is stored in non-volatile memory within the lcd. The speed sensor output goes directly to the ECM, Speedo, and lcd odo. Pulse intervals will be a very accurate measure of distance and speed. My feeling is that on power up the lcd does its display self test, and then expects a voltage level from the speed sensor(not pulses at this stage). If the basic speed sensor voltage is absent, then the pulse train will also be absent once moving, or, perhaps if the last time ridden there was no incoming pulses, the lcd odo then cannot calculate distance so by default blanks the display. This is just a gut suspicion of how the odo works. I'm sure Honda would design it as such, that non valid incoming pulse data for the odo equals a blank display. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiwannafly Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 And now a curly one...is there any chance that the odometer design is identical for both miles and km display, requiring a magic/secret jumper between point A and point 7B for exactly 7.3 seconds (being sarcastic a bit) to alter the display between modes? Gut feeling is that economically it would be cheaper to design that in rather than design individual circuits - one for imperial, one for metric. And as Grum says...99% sure you'll find the issue will be a corroded track issue. I know because mine did exactly the same a few days ago. Grum may also be able to answer - where can I find flexible polyamide backed copper sheet and the feasibility of reproducing the flexible printed circuit? 20 year old parts will likely be suffering the same corrosion issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted January 3, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2021 11 hours ago, Kiwiwannafly said: And now a curly one...is there any chance that the odometer design is identical for both miles and km display, requiring a magic/secret jumper between point A and point 7B for exactly 7.3 seconds (being sarcastic a bit) to alter the display between modes? Gut feeling is that economically it would be cheaper to design that in rather than design individual circuits - one for imperial, one for metric. And as Grum says...99% sure you'll find the issue will be a corroded track issue. I know because mine did exactly the same a few days ago. Grum may also be able to answer - where can I find flexible polyamide backed copper sheet and the feasibility of reproducing the flexible printed circuit? 20 year old parts will likely be suffering the same corrosion issue. Hi Kiwi. I don't believe the LCD's are user selectable for K's or Miles possibly for a good reason, it wouldn't match your analog Speedometer. (Unlike the 8gen miles and k's are user selectable). Bikes were buit for specific regions. Part numbers for the LCD are 37230-MBG-671 for USA miles 37230-MBG-003 for Kilometers As for reproducing the flexible PCB can't help you there, be a tricky job trying to accurately etch one of those. If I had a 5th gen panel I would do what's needed to repair it, then after getting it as clean as possible give it a good spray of clear urethane protective coating, masking the globe contacts of course. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiwannafly Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Thanks Grum - wasn't quite sure how or if the speedo and odometer are linked. Thinking pulses are sent to both - speedo converts pulses/time to get speed, odometer just counts and converts to distance. I've seen Pyralux/Kapton sheets that are solid ink (melted wax) printed on printer similar to lazer printer. Not to complicated to go from a picture of flattened out old circuit board to correctly sized vector file (solid lines as opposed to pixels). Etch is pretty straight forward, punching right size mounting holes, screw holes, globe cut outs not insurmountable. The downside of repairing the old circuit board is how dodgy the remaining tracks are and how long they are likely to hold up, even with a bit of extra protection from urethane. Thoughts on the plus or downsides? Where did you find part numbers for LCD's? Be interesting to track down manufacturer of them to check availability. Now that my odometer reading is temporarily gone I wonder if it has disappeared from non-volatile memory too?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiwannafly Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Oooohewwweyoww!!! Not that they are available but LCD units varying from 350 Euro to 975 pound! Not the whole cluster..just the LCD unit. Far out! That sort of $ can generate a hell of a lot of pissing around making stuff time for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinez Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Thank you Grum for your help on this one!! I really appreciate it. Now I only have to find the time and the courage to go and fix it myself, but when I do, I will definitely report on what happened. As for your question about the day trip meter. It does count up when driving. All works well except the odometer numbers., and the LCD seems fine at startup. Your explanation about the pulse train therefore sounds pretty reasonable to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted January 5, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted January 5, 2021 9 hours ago, Martinez said: Thank you Grum for your help on this one!! I really appreciate it. Now I only have to find the time and the courage to go and fix it myself, but when I do, I will definitely report on what happened. As for your question about the day trip meter. It does count up when driving. All works well except the odometer numbers., and the LCD seems fine at startup. Your explanation about the pulse train therefore sounds pretty reasonable to me. Hi Martinez. I'm guessing your situation may be a bit different. If your trip meter is updating then the LCD must be getting the speed input, so you're situation might be a faulty LCD. However, it would well be worth a check that the six mounting screws for the LCD are clean and tight making good electrical contact to the PCB copper tracks, and still make sure you have no corroded/broken, open circuit tracks on the PCB. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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