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Gague cluster woes


revtmolo

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Hey guys The battery on my 02 bought the farm this morning. It was from the prior owner so I am assuming it was pretty old. I got a new battery and hooked it up, but for some bizarre reason the gauge cluster appears to be dead. I pulled all of the fuses under the panel to the right of the gauge cluster and all looked good. I even went as far as going through and swapping them with a brand new fuse. Still no luck. With the sun going down, I realized the lights for the dash panel and the indicator lights are still working but the gauges (Temp, speedo, Odometer, fuel, etc...) are blank. The nuetral, FI and high beam indicator lights are fine as well.I got to the back of the panel and pulled the plug and ran some electrical cleaner on it, but it still has the same issue.

 

I pulled the cluster so I could look at the board and don't see any visibly obvious burn marks etc...

I'm still  wondering if I fried my cluster.... Any thoughts?

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hey, so I had my cluster apart not too long ago doing an LED mod on it... When I first put it back together I ended up removing the ground from my LCD panels on the PCB by mistake which caused the LCD segments to not display anymore.

 

You'll need to verify the ground pcb circuit is not faulty by using a multimeter on the ground pins. There are 4 seperate ground circuits that are all controlled by the onboard microprocessor.

 

If the grounds have become corroded, you may be having issues - it might be unlikely,but worth checking

 

Cheers 

 

   

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hey, so I had my cluster apart not too long ago doing an LED mod on it... When I first put it back together I ended up removing the ground from my LCD panels on the PCB by mistake which caused the LCD segments to not display anymore.

 

You'll need to verify the ground pcb circuit is not faulty by using a multimeter on the ground pins. There are 4 seperate ground circuits that are all controlled by the onboard microprocessor.

 

If the grounds have become corroded, you may be having issues - it might be unlikely,but worth checking

 

Cheers 

 

   

Thanks for your response and sorry I didn't get back sooner. I've been visiting family in Florida and it's been busy!

 

I picked up another gauge cluster and got the same results. I can check power on the wires but being I get lights it must be getting power somewhere... Is there a separate power supply for the LCD's?

 

I'm pretty capable with a multi meter and I'm looking at the wiring diagram today to try and identity wiring colors. If someone knows the wiring harness at all and can help me short cut it I'd really appreciate it!

 

Thanks! B

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OK, still digging at this. Went' through the wiring diagram. I'm posting this here for my own notes, but maybe someone might find it useful:

 

image.png.972ad698fa9004dbc312cf3c90948d47.png

 

I'm going to go through and unplug/replug the wiring connectors. Maybe when I was moving the wires around I yanked on the harness not realizing and knocked something loose. 

What role does the ECM (Pink,Yellow/green, White/blue) play here? I always thought that was just for Engine management. I'd say the gauges are fried, but two clusters with the same results... doesn't sound right. 

 

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1 hour ago, revtmolo said:

What role does the ECM (Pink,Yellow/green, White/blue) play here? I always thought that was just for Engine management. I'd say the gauges are fried, but two clusters with the same results... doesn't sound right. 

Pink - to ECM A21 = Speed Sensor Input to ECM and Instrument Panel Speedometer.

Yellow/Green - From ECM B11 = Tacho Output to Instrument Panel.

White/Blue - From ECM B10 = Fi Indicator Light Output to Instrument Panel.

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Pink - to ECM A21 = Speed Sensor Input to ECM and Instrument Panel Speedometer.
Yellow/Green - From ECM B11 = Tacho Output to Instrument Panel.
White/Blue - From ECM B10 = Fi Indicator Light Output to Instrument Panel.
That's awesome man thanks. This happened while replacing my battery. I'm wondering if I somehow managed to tug a connector somewhere. Hopefully it is something simple like that.
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24 minutes ago, revtmolo said:

That's awesome man thanks. This happened while replacing my battery. I'm wondering if I somehow managed to tug a connector somewhere. Hopefully it is something simple like that.

Have you confirmed at the Instrument Panel 20P connector that you have 12v present at the Red/Green wire?  And with Ignition to ON do you have 12v at BOTH Brown/Blue wires?

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Have you confirmed that at the Instrument Panel you have 12v present at the Red/Green wire?  And with Ignition to ON do you have 12v at BOTH Brown/Blue wires?


No, at this point I was just working to identify what did what.b

I assume I can just use Green as the ground for testing Red/Green and Brown/Blue wires?
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20 minutes ago, revtmolo said:


 

 


No, at this point I was just working to identify what did what.b

I assume I can just use Green as the ground for testing Red/Green and Brown/Blue wires?

 

Yes assuming your Green is properly Grounded.

 

Also your table regards wire 9 and 7 Brown/Blue is not correct. It is a 12v power feed from Fuse E 10amp.

Wire 10 is your Neutral Light.

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Yes assuming your Green is properly Grounded.

 

Also your table regards wire 9 Brown/Blue is not correct. It is a 12v power feed from Fuse E 10amp.

Wire 10 is your Neutral Light.

Awesome, thanks man. I'll update it in the AM. I'm hoping tomorrow will be Sunny so I have check this out. Weather has been terrible for the last week or so.

 

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5 minutes ago, revtmolo said:

Awesome, thanks man. I'll update it in the AM. I'm hoping tomorrow will be Sunny so I have check this out. Weather has been terrible for the last week or so.

 

Good luck with those Voltage readings. Hopefully one might be missing!

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21 minutes ago, VFR78 said:

What would everyone do without Grum. Next time I’m in trouble I’ll ship the Viffer to Victoria!

HaHa thanks VFR78. But we haven't got this one sorted yet!

Safe Riding.

Cheers.

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HaHa thanks VFR78. But we haven't got this one sorted yet!
Safe Riding.
Cheers.
No, but I'm feeling a lot better than I did about it. If nothing else I'm headed in the right direction. For that I'm grateful.
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Updated version of the chart:

 

Wire number Letter code Color Where does it go?
1 G Green Ground Wire
2 Lb Light Blue Right Turn Signal
3 O Orange Left Turn Signal
4 Bu/Bl Blue/Black High Beam Indicator
5 R/G Red/Green Fuse box Slot A - (Clock)
6 G/Bu Green/Blue Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
7 Br/Bu Brown/Blue 12v power feed from Fuse E 10amp
8 Bu/R Blue/Red Oil Pressure Switch
9 Br/Bu Brown/Blue 12v power feed from Fuse E 10amp
10 Lg/R Light green/Red Neutral light
11 W/Bu White/Blue ECM B10 = Fi Indicator Light Output to Instrument Panel
12 P Pink Speed Sensor/ECM A21
13 Y/G Yellow/Green ECM B11 Tach Output to Instrument Panel
14 G/Bl Green/Black Ground Wire
15 Gr/Bl Gray/Black Fuel Sensor
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6 hours ago, revtmolo said:

Updated version of the chart:

 

 

Wire number Letter code Color Where does it go?
1 G Green Ground Wire
2 Lb Light Blue Right Turn Signal
3 O Orange Left Turn Signal
4 Bu/Bl Blue/Black High Beam Indicator
5 R/G Red/Green Fuse box Slot A - (Clock)
6 G/Bu Green/Blue Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
7 Br/Bu Brown/Blue 12v power feed from Fuse E 10amp
8 Bu/R Blue/Red Oil Pressure Switch
9 Br/Bu Brown/Blue 12v power feed from Fuse E 10amp
10 Lg/R Light green/Red Neutral light
11 W/Bu White/Blue ECM B10 = Fi Indicator Light Output to Instrument Panel
12 P Pink Speed Sensor/ECM A21
13 Y/G Yellow/Green ECM B11 Tach Output to Instrument Panel
14 G/Bl Green/Black Ground Wire/Speed Sensor
15 Gr/Bl Gray/Black Fuel reserve Sensor

Nearly but not quite right.! 

- Wire 14 is just Ground Wire. (Just like Wire 1)

- Wire 15 is Fuel Sensor (not fuel reserve sensor)

Can't confirm your wire numbers as my drawing has no numbering for the 20P Instrument connector.

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8 hours ago, Grum said:

Have you confirmed at the Instrument Panel 20P connector that you have 12v present at the Red/Green wire?  And with Ignition to ON do you have 12v at BOTH Brown/Blue wires?

So apart from checking the above voltages. You need to confirm BOTH of the Ground Wires, wire 1 Green and wire 14 Green/Black, are properly Grounded.

 

With your meter set to the lowest Ohms range, see if you can clip your Black meter lead to the Battery Negative Terminal. Now probe Wire 1 then wire 14. You must see continuity for Both of these wires, near ZERO Ohms.

 

Unplug the 20P connector to measure the Voltages and Ohms at the wire plug pins or sockets, rather than just back probing the connector.

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Grum, you are an absolute gem. Below are the results of my testing. (All wires tested both front and back of plug using ground at both battery and green wire)

 

Power:

  • Red/Green wire - 12.3v
  • x2 brown blue wires  - 11.6v (Key in ON position)

Ohm testing grounds:

  • Green - 0.0 - 0.2
  • Green/black - 15.6

I made a quick jumper and put it between the green and green/Black wires and the gauge cluster came back to life! So the green black wire appears to be the issue.

 

Thank you so much for helping me to figure out the trouble here Grum! I can't imagine my company is ever going to send me back to melbourne, but if they do I'm going to hit you up. If nothing else I at least owe you a VB!

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1 hour ago, revtmolo said:

Grum, you are an absolute gem. Below are the results of my testing. (All wires tested both front and back of plug using ground at both battery and green wire)

 

Power:

  • Red/Green wire - 12.3v
  • x2 brown blue wires  - 11.6v (Key in ON position)

Ohm testing grounds:

  • Green - 0.0 - 0.2
  • Green/black - 15.6

I made a quick jumper and put it between the green and green/Black wires and the gauge cluster came back to life! So the green black wire appears to be the issue.

 

Thank you so much for helping me to figure out the trouble here Grum! I can't imagine my company is ever going to send me back to melbourne, but if they do I'm going to hit you up. If nothing else I at least owe you a VB!

M8 that's GREAT news, very happy for you, even if it is 2am here.! Excellent write up of your findings. You might want to check the common Ground point, see attached as this is where the wire ends up.

 

So if VFRD has helped you out solving your issue. How about you join the so many of us, and become a financial contributor. This site cannot operate without it's fantastic volunteers who manage the site and those of us who financially contribute to keeping it going.

If you can do that, then you don't owe me a VB and my service fee will be waived! :laughing6-hehe:

 

Cheers. :beer::fing02:

 

image.png

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M8 that's GREAT news, very happy for you, even if it is 2am here.! Excellent write up of your findings. You might want to check the common Ground point, see attached as this is where the wire ends up.
 
So if VFRD has helped you out solving your issue. How about you join the so many of us, and become a financial contributor. This site cannot operate without it's fantastic volunteers who manage the site and those of us who financially contribute to keeping it going.
If you can do that, then you don't owe me a VB and my service fee will be waived! :laughing6-hehe:
 
Cheers. :fing02:
 
image.thumb.png.f62ee4c0adc874ca7526733052018e9b.png
Consider it done! I also shared this with my eight year old kid! THIS is what the internet was supposed to be for! Information sharing! Not all the craziness we see all over today!
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46 minutes ago, revtmolo said:

Consider it done! I also shared this with my eight year old kid! THIS is what the internet was supposed to be for! Information sharing! Not all the craziness we see all over today

Excellent. Thanks for that.

 

Just one final note with the Green/Black Ground wire.

It is also used by your Fuel Sender unit and the Speed Sensor pickup. So depending on where you are picking up that High Resistance it may have an effect on those devices as well.

There is another large connector 14P down from your Instrument Panel where a bad connection for the Green/Black might exist or it could be at the main Ground point I've previously mentioned so check that one out.

Just have a good look at how your Fuel Indication and Speedometer perform, any issues with them will mean repairing that Ground wire properly.

Good Luck and enjoy your ride. :wheel:

Cheers.:beer:

 

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Okay last few things on this...

 

  • I updated the last spreadsheet with the last changes called out. I'll replace the others so there isn't any confusion for anyone else who might find this information.
    • Grum, maybe you can delete or replace the one in your post for posterity's sake. 
  • I donated!
  • Everything is square now. All instrumentation and lights are working and the bike runs great!
  • The numbering scheme I used in the spreadsheet was just a left to right rundown on the wiring diagram:
    •  
      • image.png.008c58d0d0947207fa046aca13371e03.png

Thank you again for your help! I'm super stoked my VFR is back to square!

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Mate, Great Job. Many thanks for your donation to VFRD. You'll find heaps of info on VFRD about your bike and if ever you have problems someone will be here to help you out.

Best Regards.

Enjoy your Ride.:wheel:

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  • 7 months later...

Hi.i read yesterday this topic and i think that i have the same problem.

But until now is still not working.i check the ground cables and i also bypass but nothing.the only think that i don't know is when i turn key on i measure  the ground cables  with out remove fuse from cluster and it shows negative nubmer .is that normal ?please any advise is welcome

IMG_20210212_162812.jpg

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Not sure on how you are seeing a negative value.

The LCD display gets it Ground from the Green/Black wire. So if your meter is set to volts and you have your Black meter lead on the battery Negative and your Red lead on the Green/Black wire, with Ignition to On you should read 0 volts. If you are reading a voltage the Green/Black is not properly Grounded.

Also with Ignition to OFF and switch your meter to ohms you should read zero ohms meaning you have continuity of the Green/Black wire to ground. Hope this helps.

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