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Electrical issues at BAS


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1 minute ago, CurtBrass said:

My apologies, cut and paste error. 

 

I unplugged the grey ECM and probed the Blk/Wht socket there. 

 

With the ECM plug still pulled I then probed from the ESR Blk/Wht to the negative terminal on the battery. the reading started low and just kept rising. I unprobed at about 3.4

OK The END is NEAR!

 

Try This....

Remove your meter. Install the ESR. Install a new Fuse B. Leave the ECM unplugged. Kill Switch to RUN.

Switch ON ignition for a couple of seconds.

DOES YOUR FUSE B BLOW?

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I did as suggested and and no blown fuse. I tried it both with and without the FSR installed since I wasn't sure if you wanted it in. I didn't hear any clicking (energizing) at either relay. 

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50 minutes ago, CurtBrass said:

I did as suggested and and no blown fuse. I tried it both with and without the FSR installed since I wasn't sure if you wanted it in. I didn't hear any clicking (energizing) at either relay. 

The FCR is irrelevant at this stage we are checking a potential short within your ECM! I would definitely have mentioned the FCR if needed.

 

You need to be be close to the ESR to hear it at switch ON.

As mentioned if it's easier switch ignition to ON and operate your kill switch. Listen carefully to confirm the ESR is energising

We need to know your ESR is energising AND the state of Fuse B.

 

Recheck and confirm the state of Fuse B. 

Stick with me, we should have this solved shortly.

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3 minutes ago, CurtBrass said:

Ok, ESR is energizing and Fuse B is  not blowing

BRAVO! We're nearly there.

 

At the risk of sacrificing one last 20amp fuse.

 

Do this.....

At the ECM re install your Gray Plug B to the ECM. Now remove Plug A from the ECM.

Switch ON your Ignition for a couple of seconds

DOES FUSE B BLOW?

.

 

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20 minutes ago, CurtBrass said:

Did as directed and Yes, Fuse B blew as soon as I turned on the key.

OK. We're Done. We finally have an answer. Sadly.

 

                                    You have just confirmed a dead short within your ECM.

 

As mentioned I suspect that the blowing of headlights was an indication of Overvoltage. This is most likely the reason for your ECM shorting.

 

Sadly you're up for a replacement ECM. AND your charging voltage needs to be seriously looked at as you most likely still have an issue with the R/R. You may be able to source a known good ECM from a Motorcycle Wreckers or maybe even e-bay I'm not too sure, BUT you need to be confident in buying second hand that the ECM is good.

 

Best of luck. Keep us posted and Thanks again for donating to VFRD.

 

My invoice is in the mail:fing02:

 

Cheers.:beer:

 

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Grum,

 

How high would you suppose the charging voltage had to get (and for how long) to cause this problem (short the ECU)? 

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1 hour ago, Cogswell said:

Grum,

 

How high would you suppose the charging voltage had to get (and for how long) to cause this problem (short the ECU)? 

That's a good question Cogs. I'm not really sure, but I guess it's the main reason the Service Manual states charge volts must NOT exceed 15.5 volts, apart from blowing headlights, cooking batteries etc. the ECM is most critical.

 

As we all know ECM's are incredibly reliable but as with any sensitive, complex electronic device, voltage spikes and higher than normal operating voltages stress these items. It might handle higher than normal voltages for a while but reliability wil be seriously degraded. That's about all I can offer and  poor CurtBrass is not the first to suffer an ECM failure most likely due to excessive supply voltage.

 

Just as an example, if you exceed the rated PIV (Peak Inverse Voltage) of a simple diode, you will most likely end up with a shorted diode. A similar type of situation could happen within the ECM.

 

Cheers.

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Well, I just ordered an ECM. I'll let you know how it turns out when it arrives in a week or so. 

 

Thanks again, GRUM, for all your help. 

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3 hours ago, CurtBrass said:

Well, I just ordered an ECM. I'll let you know how it turns out when it arrives in a week or so. 

 

Thanks again, GRUM, for all your help. 

No worries m8.

You didn't waste any time with the ECM. Hope the ECM part numbers match! 

You are faced with a catch 22 situation. You need your bike running before you can verify your charge voltage!

 

Suggest you first fire up your bike on battery alone - That means a fully charged battery with the R/R disconnected by unplugging the 3 yellow wire stator lead going to the R/R.

 

Once you've established your bike running properly, your going to have to reconnect your R/R and very quickly check your charging voltage! It MUST be less than 15.5v DC. 13.5 to 14.5 is the norm.

Are you very confident you no longer have issues with your current R/R. You don't want to end up with another stuffed ECM!

 

Good Luck.

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Thanks Grum, I installed a Mosfet FH020AA R/R from Roadstercycle and a new stator last year when I first started trying to find the problem, so the voltage should be good, but I'm going to get a voltage meter to install as well. 

 

I really hope that there are no more surprises

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5 hours ago, CurtBrass said:

So the ECM arrived, plugged it in and it started right up. Thanks, Grum, for all your help!

Great news. Now don't forget to check your charging voltage. At long last enjoy your ride.

Cheers.

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