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Engine completely cuts out during acceleration


dtron

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2004 w/abs with 60000km (Canadian model). During brisk acceleration the engine completely loses power momentarily. It's an intermittent occurence, it's happened in first, second, and third gear. It's like grabbing the brake for a split second, enough to jerk me forward. The tach goes to zero and then comes back and it continues to accelerate. It seems like the bike momentarily shuts off. I did have one occurence where it completely died and I had to restart.

 

I suspect a bad ground but I have no idea how to diagnose an intermittent ground issue like that. The FI light is not on nor flashing. It seems to be running normally in all other respects.

 

Battery has good voltage and charges normally. The battery ground is good and the multi wire (20 pin) ground connector, which is grey on my bike and not yellow or orange, is clean and has good grounds. I have the vrfness installed and a Rick's stator and R/R which are almost two years old. The plugs are one year old.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

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I had considered that at first but given that it basically shuts off for a split second, tach goes to zero and all power is lost, then "reboots" I think that if it was a fuel feed issue it would be more of a stutter or hesitation. As far as I know the tank so clean inside. I keep it full during the winter to prevent corrosion. I've gone through a few tanks since my riding season began at the end of March and I only had this issue today and my last time out which was a week ago (damn coronavirus).

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Maybe go through all the connectors and grounds to be sure everything is good.

 

Maybe do a double check on the stator output while the fairings are off. Even though it is relatively new

 

I've read that the sidestand switch can get flaky also

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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I did a thorough clean off the switch after my ride as it was something else I considered. I won't know if that's the issue till next time out. It was fairly gunked up with chain lube and dirt.

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If the Tach swings to zero while the engine rpm is not zero then that is a sign of low volts and not a fuel related problem... I'd still suspect the battery for its the weakest link and trace all the charging system wires and connections for resistance...

 

 

 

MeltedQDC01.JPG

RC45Wire (18).JPG

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If tach zeros forget about non electrical issues. 
 

You say you checked the ground. It can be a bad positive connection too... broken wire, corroded connection, short etc. I would check all primary wires as first step - disconnect or disassemble to clean and check alle the way to ignition switch. 
when it died completely, did the oil light come on? Did the starter turn at once?

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I didn't see that the power goes off. My fault

 

Definitely check the fuse connector by the battery for heat damage from resistance as well as the connector to the starter solenoid. Not sure what the vfrness covers

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Really important to know that when the fault happens are you saying you're loosing all electrical power, no headlights, instrument panel dead etc?

If YES then agree with Jstehman and BLS. Have a very close look at both 30amp Main Fuses for heat stress and poor or overheated wires and connections to them. You might also have a faulty/intermittent Ignition Switch. Assume your battery terminals are clean and tight.......don't laugh!

 

If NO then have a very good check of the SideStand Switch and wiring, and possibly a dirty/faulty engine stop/kill switch. Another thing you could try is to rig up a Voltmeter monitoring the Engine Stop Relay output Black/White wire as this feeds ALL the EFI stuff. It's vitally important to know if this voltage remains good OR not during your fault.

 

Also are you saying it ONLY happens when accelerating. Does it ever happen while riding a bumpy road. Does it ever happen while just cruising along?

Sorry for all the questions, but answers will help us all diagnose your fault.

 

Good Luck you've got plenty of things to try. Let's know how you get on.

 

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It's hard to say if it's just engine power cutting or if everything is cutting out as it happens so quickly. It's happened about four times and none of the roads were particularly bumpy and it has only happened under acceleration. Except for the one time when I had to restart it no lights came on. The one time I had to restart I had to pull over as it wouldn't start at first.

 

My check if the fuses only consisted of checking for continuity with the multimeter to make sure they weren't blown. The battery terminals are clean, I had taken off my battery tender attachments after the first occurence to try and eliminate that. 

 

I will check as much wiring as I can and clean as I go.

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Checking continuity sufficed for gravity fed carbs and mechanical

 sparks... but we are in the age of the Electronic Bike... fuel delivery and spark
timing and instruments and everything else operate within millionths
of a volt (milli-volts) and for some reason a component doesn't
receive its allotted share of volts the system starts to prioritized
which components are powered and which components are cut so you can
ultimately return home..

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The solid red wire exiting the main fuse (attached to the starter relay) has gotten too hot. The plastic on the connector is slightly melted and the wire shows signs of too much heat. That is obviously an issue. I know it connects to the ignition switch and the wire has continuity to the ignition switch connector. It also connects to the fuse A in the right fuse box which connects to the instrument cluster which could explain the tach issue.

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Those fuses and their wiring are known issues to the 6th Gen.

Search for "melted connector"

Best option is to replace fuse B the 30amp by the battery with a new inline fuse holder and crimp and solder and heatshrink wrap the connection.

 

You can also change the spade connector on the starter relay connector.. wiremybike.com has high quality connectors and even a replacement red connector piece for the starter relay

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 7 months later...
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No update as regards whether you have solved the problem or not. I know it is very late in the day, but the sidestand switch wiring can course your issue. I have been there before on my VTR1000

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My ‘07 stopped running in the fast lane on the freeway, luckily I got off the road safely.   Turned out to be corroded wiring around the battery, I should’ve changed it out but lesson learned.   Also had a ground issue a few years ago that was intermittently cutting the power without warning but was able to limp home.     Now I check connectors every winter and look for crispy wiring, corrosion etc.   
 

 

 

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