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What did you do with your VFR1200 today?


Skids

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2 hours ago, rtho782 said:

It's definitely a nicer ride!! Very happy with it so far.

 

I'm going to copy your brake changes next I think, sorry. I've spent the last 20 mins looking at everything on the probolt site!!
 

Aren't the standard brakes good enough? Mine were like aircraft carrier anchors. Only changed the disc cos one of them warped slightly. 

 

Those EBC discs ain't cheap.

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The front pads are very worn as MCT showed me, and unevenly so. I managed to make the rear smoke on a..... very spirited test ride after the suspension change, so they probably need changing now too.

 

If I'm changing the pads anyway, I feel like I might as well change the discs.

 

All is ordered now, front and rear!

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's amazing how much lighter these are, and the fact that they can go from 10 buttons to 6 with the square button stuff.

 

It does feel like it stops better, and the probolt studs are much prettier.

 

image.thumb.png.49d4bf5b3f83121ad5ba6125b8480fde.pngimage.thumb.png.bb87bc77dfcb21f340b31a6d7a091da5.png

 

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On 10/3/2020 at 5:26 PM, rtho782 said:

It's amazing how much lighter these are, and the fact that they can go from 10 buttons to 6 with the square button stuff.

 

It does feel like it stops better, and the probolt studs are much prettier.

 

image.thumb.png.49d4bf5b3f83121ad5ba6125b8480fde.pngimage.thumb.png.bb87bc77dfcb21f340b31a6d7a091da5.png

 

 

In the first photo they look smaller... Wich model is? Cost?

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13 minutes ago, Cmiguelq said:

 

In the first photo they look smaller... Wich model is? Cost?

 

I think it's just the angle, they are definitely the same size.

EBC use squared buttons allowing for a flat contact plane rather than point contact and a larger gap between outer and inner parts. This also spreads the load on the buttons allowing an aluminium alloy centre and fewer buttons (6 v 10).

All this is probably meaningless to me but the model number of the front disks is MD1176X, and they are a slightly terrifying £126 each.

 

My old brake pads had very uneven wear, and when doing the pads I just kind of decided to do the disks as well, and change to stainless bolts.

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MoT test this morning.

 

Hopefully all it will show up is the lack of miles I've completed on her this last year.  :sad:

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5 hours ago, Skids said:

MoT test this morning.

 

Hopefully all it will show up is the lack of miles I've completed on her this last year.  :sad:

And she passed!  

 

Another year sat in the garage to look forward to.  :sad:

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Changed the rear disks and pads today, but since doing so have a check engine light (3 long flashes, 5 short with ignition on and engine off, permenantly on with engine running) and the TC light is on.

 

I guess that means I have to give the honda dealership all my money 😕

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Disregard that, the issue was caused by the exhaust flap motor thing being pulled to far by me moving the exhaust to get the wheel off. Turned it back a bit, and the next time I started it, it burrrred and is now fine, all lights gone.

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18 hours ago, rtho782 said:

Disregard that, the issue was caused by the exhaust flap motor thing being pulled to far by me moving the exhaust to get the wheel off. Turned it back a bit, and the next time I started it, it burrrred and is now fine, all lights gone.

 

I removed the cable completely when I fitted my DAM end can, which not only sounds far, far better than OEM but also seemed to smooth out lower rpm running. No engine lights in the 5 years since.

 

Just sayin'. :beer:

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I would remove the cable, but my akro can is the factory option so has a flap thing in it, if i remove the cable it would just stay closed 😛

 

Perhaps I need to figure out a way to fix it open with locking wire.

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  • 7 months later...
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Having the suspension serviced at the same place i had it modded,  MCT Suspension near Stowmarket. 

 

IMAG1283.jpg

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Now it's the turn of the rear shock. 

 

IMAG1284.jpg

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Got a new set of tires, ended up getting Bridgestone T32's GT spec on the front and standard on the rear.
 Had my dad help me replace all the hydraulics in my brakes, nasty yellow stuff came out, was assured this was done by the dealer i bought it from, i somewhat doubt that now... Also installed new brake pads in the front and just generally cleaned my brakes/calipers out nicely, looks like new now, the quality of these components seem really really stellar honestly. 

Also applied a new fancy coating to the bike, cause why not 😛
Falling more and more in love with this bike every day. 

 

image.thumb.png.bbda7133b2262db69b76d7e567272a66.png

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1 hour ago, Magneto said:

Good stuff guys. Skids, I was about to complement you on the size of the garage 😉

Sadly, it isn't mine. 😭

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1 hour ago, daved said:

His is a lot smaller 😀

 

We are talking garage now, aren't we?

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
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That does look great. 

 

Ordered a new Givi D321S smoked screen today. Whilst the Helibars have made the riding position much more comfortable, they have lifted my head and shoulders and I'm getting a lot of wind noise so I thought I'd give a higher screen a go.

 

 

d321s-1-M-0540061.jpg

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Dropped mine in a parking lot (hole in the ground where i put my boot) sigh...
 Scratched and bent basically the expected stufff, will get it like new before the end of next week.
Just finished 3000km's riding around in Harz in Germany (really nice place), bike continues to impress with handling and just how effortless it is to put miles on. 
Have been having some odd engine behavior as i was in Germany. Sometimes when i would turn the bike on it would start and then fail to run correctly and after a few seconds turn off, now with the engine warning light on. 
 It would then turn on and run fine. And this did not occur on every startup. My guess is faulty temperatur or baro sensor (air pressure sensor) Will take the bike to my mechanic anyway since i decided to drop it... Engine sounds and runs flawlessly so its just some odd electrical issue. 

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Fitted Givi screen today, will try it on Monday on my commute to work.

 

Looks and feels a lot taller than the Powerbronze I fitted when I bought it.

 

 

1.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Attended a very good Skills Day at Cadwell Park racing circuit hosted by the Hopp Rider Training team.

 

Not a track day, as such; all bikes must be road legal. In the morning, groups of 6 led by an instructor, up to 5 groups out at once with no overtaking until the instructor in front acknowledges it and then only on the straights and in the afternoon, no instructors but the same overtaking rules apply. This is a major issue for many as guys on race bikes who are clearly much faster overtaking under braking can cause issues for slower riders.

 

Sadly it was wet in the morning but this did allow for exploring the adhesion of the tyres on a very grippy track.

 

One issue I did notice was near the top of The Mountain, just before the brow, the back end was twitching even though I was not pushing it (at all). I wondered if the front end was going light enough to cause a mismatch between front & rear speed sensors and tripping the TC. If anyone can offer an informed view, I'd be interested to find out what was causing it as it knocked my confidence as I was building nicely.

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