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Hello Everyone.........new here as of yesterday , April 9th 2020.

I have had my VFR in the garage now for a year or so, its a 1995 VFR 750 all original except for two brothers exhaust. With this pandemic we are all in , time has been given to me to start to understand more about it.If you would allow me to ask some basic questions ...

1-How do I know if it is a 3rd or 4th Gen?

2-Will this make difference in ordering any parts in the future?

3 What are the most inherent issues with the 750"s?

4-I see some here comment about an RC36.....is this a special version of the VFR?

 

your new friend.....

 

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Welcome to the asylum Ken. That is one beautiful machine! You obviously have fabulous taste in mc's. You've come to the right place for info on taking care of your machine and having fun riding it. Being only a fifth gen (1998-2001) owner, I'll defer to the experts on answering your questions. 

 

Ride safe and have fun. In That Order. 🙂

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Sweet looking 4th gen! Welcome. As a former 4th gen owner I will try to answer some of your questions.

 

1: 3rd gens have naca duct like depressions in the frame, and different bodywork. Other mechanical differences too like non floating rotors, the coveted 8-spoke rear wheel, and some other minor ones.

2: Depends on what parts. Many are interchangeable.

3: Charging system issues are the primary one. Fragile bodywork is the other. Take good care of that tail section. It is unobtanium.

4: RC36 is the model designation for the 3rd/4th gen road bikes. You can see it in the VIN. RC30 would be the racing version. Rare, and pricey these days.

 

I sold my '94 a while back with 139K on it. Ran like a scalded dog I just prefer 5th gens, and have limited garage space. Would rather have kept it. Great bike!

 

 

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Third gen's were the model produced from 1990 to 1993. 4th gen were 94 through 97. Both are the RC36 and are sometimes designated RC36-I and RC36-II. Nice looking bike you've got there!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

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Wow!...........fast repsonse. Thanks guys

I"m gonna guess then I have a 4th gen bike, floating rotors.......6 spoke rear rim, but the duct depressions in the frame ??? Where do  I see this

I also see in my VIN the RC36........

I picked this one up at what believe was a good price, I gave $700 Canadian and it came with a cover, and a Joe Rocket helmet never worn still in box.Bike has 42,000K on it, I have to say I absolutly love the sound of this V4

Stay Safe 

Ken

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So.......I'm going to just keep this thread alive by asking questions,please excuse if they seem overly simple.I trust sources as in here far more than the google info anyone anywhere can get.

Here we go again 😉

The large bolt posts on the tail stock, are they for add on or OEM  hard bags of some sort or just tie down points for stuff

Is the inherent issue with charging system the rectifier overheating?

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Currently my Garage is a 2003 GL1800 Wing and the '95 VFR 750

it was up until last fall a bit more full

1989 EX500

2004 Triumph 955i

2000 Triumph TT600

2003 GL1800

 

Riding styles changes a bit......destinations changed a bit and length of rides and the comfort and luggage needs changed a bit.☺️

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You'll find that lots of the folks in here think that your particular motorcycle is the best version of any VFR, and in the best color. 

 

The previous owner of your bike may have dealt with charging issues. In any case, you really want to look into it. There are links to the issues right here on site. The original regulator/rectifiers got plenty hot, and so do lots of upgrades. Some of the guys install cooling fans or change the installation. You'll have to look through the threads. To get started, search "the drill" from mello dude. You might also find that a digital voltmeter is a reassuring addition to the panel. Again, covered in depth on site.

 

You might want to pickup a service manual. They regularly appear on EBay. A print version. With diligence you can find one for as little as $10. Hispanic Slammer has made an online version available to download right here too. For free! Follow the link on the download pages. 

 

Have fun. 

 

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3 hours ago, Ken said:

So.......I'm going to just keep this thread alive by asking questions,please excuse if they seem overly simple.I trust sources as in here far more than the google info anyone anywhere can get.

Here we go again 😉

The large bolt posts on the tail stock, are they for add on or OEM  hard bags of some sort or just tie down points for stuff

Is the inherent issue with charging system the rectifier overheating?

Those bolts are commonly referred to as "Frankenbolts".  They were Honda's attempt at providing a tie-down point for whatever ya got back there.  

Check you connector between the stator and rectifier connecting the 3 yellow wires.  If you're not getting 14v across the battery,  a new R/R is probably a good investment. 

 

Fourth gens are great bikes -  awesome build  quality. The sound with that slipon is incredible.  The only complaint I had  with mine was that the suspension was too soft for my taste.  It was great for cruising,  but push it too hard in the corners and it didn't like it much.  As mentioned, OEM plastic is nearly impossible to find,  so treat it kindly and it will reward you with miles of smiles.

 

 

 

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Fiches

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-MOTO/VFR/1995/VFR750FS/10270

 

 

3rd  Gen RC36-1 is from 1990-93

4th Gen RC36-2 is from 1994-97

 

Search for "The Drill" here on VFRD to do a test procedure on the voltage regulator alnd the generator.  

If you do need to fit a new VR, fit a MOSFET one. The "old skool"design would simply "burn off" excess voltage. As the revs increase, so does the AC voltage level and the VR needs to get rid of this to maintain a max DC volage to the battery.

A MOSFET VR switches differently (dont ask me, I know Jack Schitt on electrickery) and generates less heat if any. My old skool OEM VR lasted some 50,000km afaik.

Do fit a voltage meter near the cockpit; this way you can tell if something is amiss and this will most likely give you ample time to make it home

I used this one: http://www.signaldynamics.com/heads-up-voltage-monitor/

Inside the top fairing there are black plactis inserts, removed one, drilled a wee hole to seat the LED

Generators (not just Honda) tend not to like ethanol in fuel (finds its way in the engine oil) which helps (as does the heat) degrade the copper wire insulation over time. aka "Crispy Baked"

 

Above the tail light there is a half moon shape piece of bodywork. They tend to develop a crack (especially if you dropped the bike I think).  Reinforce at the back if you are worried.

 

 

The bolt holes on the subframe under the saddle are for the passenger grips

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So yto use the grip you must remove the ABS seat cover.  (or source a 2nd one ond Dremel out half moons on either side)

 

 

 

The OEM shock was soft when new and by now will be WELL past its sub-prime it started life as....

OEM front spring are soft too.

BUT, if the ride feels good to you, why spend $$$?

 

 

 

euh......  BECAUSE YOU CAN!!! :goofy:

 

 

 

Luggage?

She makes for a great tourer as well; just look out for oncoming cars doing a left turn in front of you..... 

I owned mine from new and did 106,000km before she snapped in 2.

 

Aye, she can be a firy one too!

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6th gen luggage rack and bags McGyvered on...

 

 

 

 

A yes, RED 4th Gens (aka The NACA) are THE BEST

 

 

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(3rd Gen back wheel with covering plate suggesting single nut)

 

 


 

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5 hours ago, Ken said:

The large bolt posts on the tail stock, are they for add on or OEM  hard bags of some sort or just tie down points for stuff

The long bolt posts, that stick out to the side, are so you can easily remove them without tools to take the pillion seat cover off. They should only be tight enough to remove with a key or pocket knife.

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As for issues that are common and I have run into.

 

Bodywork is a pain to find but unless you obliterate a panel everything except the belly pans are easily fixed. I use plastifix when I have to repair the painted pieces. I fused the 5 tail pieces together for a much more stable piece.

 

Mirrors. They can eventually become loose and not hold position. From memory the 00-01 VFR800 mirrors fit perfectly and don't have the rubber condom on the stalks.

 

Thermostat. You may notice the temperature gauge doesn't come up much, this could be normal or could be a failed thermostat. I had a feeling mine was bad so I changed it and the gauge started acting more like I expected. It's not a horrible job on a 4th gen to change it.

 

Carburetors. A number of people end up having them overflow. As with all carbs this requires a cleaning most of the time. I recommend a gasket kit from LiteTek, as they are made with ethanol compatible materials. If you decide to rejet it, if not done with the exhaust, I recommend the Factory Pro kit. It comes with the D wrench for the mixture screws. I have the TBR full exhaust as well, well two full exhausts but one is left exit. 

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On 4/11/2020 at 1:32 PM, coupedupsubie said:

As for issues that are common and I have run into.

 

Bodywork is a pain to find but unless you obliterate a panel everything except the belly pans are easily fixed. I use plastifix when I have to repair the painted pieces. I fused the 5 tail pieces together for a much more stable piece.

 

Mirrors. They can eventually become loose and not hold position. From memory the 00-01 VFR800 mirrors fit perfectly and don't have the rubber condom on the stalks.

 

Thermostat. You may notice the temperature gauge doesn't come up much, this could be normal or could be a failed thermostat. I had a feeling mine was bad so I changed it and the gauge started acting more like I expected. It's not a horrible job on a 4th gen to change it.

 

Carburetors. A number of people end up having them overflow. As with all carbs this requires a cleaning most of the time. I recommend a gasket kit from LiteTek, as they are made with ethanol compatible materials. If you decide to rejet it, if not done with the exhaust, I recommend the Factory Pro kit. It comes with the D wrench for the mixture screws. I have the TBR full exhaust as well, well two full exhausts but one is left exit. 

Can you share details on how you fused the tail section pieces? 

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An RC36 with a TBR slip-on...heaven.

 

FYI, the "4th gen" thing is not an official Honda term, nor is it really the way the rest of the world (those strange places outside N. America) refers to these bikes, but I must say I hear it now even here in the UK.  Scandalous!

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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14 hours ago, JZH said:

FYI, the "4th gen" thing is not an official Honda term, nor is it really the way the rest of the world (those strange places outside N. America) refers to these bikes, but I must say I hear it now even here in the UK.  Scandalous!

Since you bring it up, how does the rest of the world distinguish between models from 90-93 and 94-97? I think there are some differences besides the body work. 

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90-93  shyte

94-97 brilliant

 

Simple really.....    :goofy:

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5 hours ago, Gebruiker said:

Since you bring it up, how does the rest of the world distinguish between models from 90-93 and 94-97? I think there are some differences besides the body work. 

90-93: RC36/1

94-97: RC36/2

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18 hours ago, RC36B said:

90-93: RC36/1

94-97: RC36/2

Like RC24 and RC46... So is the whole 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th...generation thing just not a thing? Or is it just a thing between 3rd and 4th generation? JZH should know...he's the one who brought it up. 😉 

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No, I really wanted to go here:

 

 

Knipsel.JPG.bf88e86304183906b95bddfccebb52e3.JPG

 

 

but it got cancelled...

 

 

 

3rd gens are LOVELY......  REALLY!!!! :wub:

 

 

 

 

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I have to say that all you guys are great!.....but I'm behind on reading your replies as I didn't set a reminder to my device when a reply comes in, will do that now.I checked my wiring at the rectifier/regulator, right side, just under seat, wires are very hard, so they have been getting hot.This will be my first project after reading up on it here. Right now I am doing the basics to bring it all together, cleaning,air filter, plugs,fuel filter etc etc.The guy gave me a filter for it as well, went to put it in and its a K&N....bonus!

Does anyone else do the screen from an old OEM filter over the snorkel on the air box to keep out the larger debris?.I have done this to every bike I have ever owned and you can easily double your filter life.An Engineer friend of mine a number of years ago had a device to measure air flow, we did a before and after on my Triumph 955i Daytona with the air box screen mod and zero difference.

Here's a couple pics of Covid19 time in the garage these days........again you guys Rock !

 

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It will mute the air induction sound no doubt.

Snorkel can be removed no problem; even in rainey weather.

 

The K&N is an AIR filter right?  Not an oil filter; these were reported to fail/split. The ones witha nut on top.

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