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Pre "refurb" questions.


EX-XX

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Soon, I'll be moving my 5th Gen from the garage to the shed, and after that will begin the "20-year" refurb work, as done by a few others on here in recent times. For the train spotters, yes, it is technically a year late, but still.

 

I'd have started the work last year, but we moved into our (new to us) house in August, and I've since been doing - or having done - various things around the place to get it to a standard we're happy with. Not there yet, but have plenty of time, or so it would seem.

 

One of the things I was doing was attempting to insulate and line the shed, as well as stopping up holes etc. to try and limit the entry of vermin. As with all these things, one thing leads to another, and before you know it, you're getting coax run/aerials installed, installing WiFi repeaters and making the thing into a "man cave". It's easy to lose sight of the fact that the shed is a place to do projects in, NOT to be the project itself! 🙄

 

Anyway, I digress...

 

In preparation for our move here, I began preemptively buying bits and pieces I thought I'd use in the refurb work, as well as other things which are handy to have (you know, like a spare engine, a set of VFRD Group Buy headers etc...just the basics 😀)

 

For the actual refurb, I've purchased the following, from a range of sources:

1) AS3 Silicone coolant hoses to suit '98-'99 VFR (these, of course, predate the availability of the extra hoses for the Y2K/'01 models...not an issue, as mine is an FIX)

 

2) New hose clamps (from AS3) to suit the hoses.

 

3) New plugs (CR9EHIX-9)

 

4) New thermostat (from I forget where - Partzilla most likely)

 

5) O-rings for the hoses in the V

 

6) Injectors - from the spare engine - were pulled and sent off for testing/cleaning etc.

 

7) Group buy headers.

 

I'm aware that once I start disassembling the bike, I'll start finding other stuff I may as well do, "while I'm there". So the question is, what other stuff should I be thinking about getting in advance. One thing I'd like to do is replace all the throttle body hoses. I just need to know what i/d and o/d "mix" of hose I need, and will order some in bulk in advance.

 

A couple of notes:

 

The forks have been rebuilt quite recently, although I will likely need the dust seals at the bottom. I imagine these are the same as any 43mm inverted Showa fork??? (Forks are SP2 with Ohlins rebound valving).

 

The rear shock (Ohlins) was also rebuilt not that long back. The bike has not been ridden much in the last couple of years, but has been garaged throughout.

 

The front wheel bearings are new.

 

I haven't touched the rear bearings (either swingarm pivot or hub).

 

Brake pads are near-new (rear) and about 75% (front).

 

What other things do people reckon I'll need, or should do while the bike is apart? Frankly, the idea of pulling it down (and more accurately putting it back together), isn't something I'm necessarily looking forward to. So I only want to do it once, if possible.

 

 

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Take a close look at the throttle body boots for cracks. If they are just hard you can soak them in silicone to soften, and help preserve.

 

You'll want to go through the wiring while you're in there too. Check all the connections for corrosion, and tightness. 

 

Engine mount, and subframe fasteners for proper torque. They've been known to loosen over time.

 

The rear bearings are pretty robust so unless you suspect a problem I wouldn't be concerned. You could remove the eccentric for a good cleaning. They tend to get pretty nasty in there especially if you frequent rain and/or dirt roads.

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You didn't mention it, but I'm assuming you already know to get a new t-stat housing O-ring.

If you need or want new throttle body boots, they are discontinued. I took a look at a set of 6th gen boots, and the only difference is that they have MCW molded onto them instead of MBG on the 5th.

Valve Clearance Check?

Throttle body hoses; I did all but 2 in silicone. There were only 2 that the bends were too tight and I was afraid they would kink. The OD was very slightly too big in a couple places, but with patience I worked them on. Just ordered 3.5mm ID in 10' and 8mm ID in (I think) 1' from Amazon. Also, I used some leftover 3.5mm for the radiator reservoir drain hose that wasn't included with the AS3 kit. It was a tight fit, parts fiche lists that one as 5.5mm, but I got in on. Perhaps in actual overflow it won't flow enough coolant, but I hope I don't find out.

Headlight polish? I did start a thread on that. I thought mine looked really good until I polished a much worse one and it came out better than mine by far!  Headlight Polish

LED Instrument Cluster Lights? I have a list of sizes and colors required, if you want.

I replaced my fuel filter, cut open the old one, found it pristine clean, opened the replacement box and realized I didn't have a '99 fuel pump anymore and they had changed out the filter design somewhere along the line (presumably '00). So I have no idea how many miles were on the one I cut open due to it coming with some tank or other I had got along the way to replace various damaged ones...🤷‍♂️ I'd say you probably don't want to bother unless you know you've got into some dodgy fuel or a rusty tank. Tank rust is what would be my main concern.

 

FDF155C8-FC29-4D09-B4EC-BEF8C6B79C5B.jpeg

 

The four 3.5 nipples shown here are the ones that are tough to install due to the silicone OD being slightly larger, but as you see in the next pic they are seated. Also, there is a cap in there somewhere for the line to the flapper actuator.

4F3ACD6E-6947-484D-9899-7D3E12709724.jpeg

 

The two 8mm hoses I couldn't make the bends work. Stock spring clips fit the silicone 8mm.

FDA18D76-486D-4695-8ED9-C7880B635C76.jpeg

 

YMMV on this one. I didn't like seeing the oil residue in my airbox, so I capped the AB and stuck this filter on the valve cover. (Unintended product placement in the background)

5CB399E0-109E-4ECA-B50B-212CE91312A3.jpeg

 

Long ago de-paired/de-flappered. Swapped the coils for COPs and cleaned up all the now redundant mounting points on the airbox exterior.

10022B7D-2C94-4938-A443-82CF76786F73.jpeg

 

29879707-8C0B-4FD4-AC9A-FD2317E872B0.jpeg

 

46AC66BB-DF7A-47E3-95AA-A5CCB8DD3788.jpeg

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That's one hell of a comprehensive reply. Thanks! I really appreciate the throttle body comments and pics. I've been thinking about COPS (despite the fact that I have two full sets of spare OEM coils). Pair valve block off was done long before I bought the bike.

 

I will have to have another look at the T/Stat, as I assumed (perhaps wrongly) that they would include the replacement O-ring in the pack.

 

Your post is a great example of why I (much) prefer forums like this to Facebook...The information is easily accessible (for me and others following), and won't "disappear into the ether" as posts on Facebook tend to.

 

Thanks again, for both replies thus far. Very much appreciated!

 

Edit: I had a quick look through the bits I ordered, and it looks as though I did order the o-rings required, per the attached exploded view:

 

I have three o-ring "packs" in my kit...

 

1 x Thermostat housing o-ring, part number 91311-KE8-000

 

2 x 91304-GC8-003

 

2 x 01331-PC9-003

 

Image courtesy of https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/800-MOTO/VFR/1999/VFR800FIX/Engine/THERMOSTAT-WATER-PIPE/13MBGW41/E__1500/1/10446

THERMOSTAT-WATER-PIPE-Honda-MOTO-800-VFR-1999-VFR800FIX-E__1500.jpg

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Just now, BuzznerSuntrusts said:

How many KMs, Just curious? When I did all that under the airbox stuff I was at around 166,550 (103,490 miles).

Mine is at ~136,000kms or so.  so around 85,000 miles...

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I dug out my leftover silicone hose yesterday and measured. The OD of the 3.5 is 12mm! Yeah, it's pretty thick. Maybe you can find thinner, or maybe it has to be that thick to not collapse? I have (sorry for not converting) just under 4' remaining, I think about 44". Using about 19.5" for the radiator overflow means I used just over 4.5' for only the throttle bodies.

The two 8mm hoses are between 7" - 8", and if I hadn't cut the 2 small bends out of the remainder I could do another 2 long hoses. It was probably 3' to start out. A meter is longer than a yard, so 50cm would do you on that.

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Just wanted to touch on one comment you made above:

 

Quote

LED Instrument Cluster Lights? I have a list of sizes and colors required, if you want.

 

What I am keen to try is the LCD "reversal" mod. Is there a howto around for that?

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On 4/12/2020 at 1:43 AM, EX-XX said:

Just wanted to touch on one comment you made above:

 

 

What I am keen to try is the LCD "reversal" mod. Is there a howto around for that?

It's really simple to swap out the incandescent bulbs for LEDs. 

Here is the list that you need (Fifth Gen Only):

Bulb Size     Color            How Many     Where it Goes:

194               Amber               X2              Turn Signal Indicators

194               Blue                   X2              LCD Screen

194               White                X3               Dials

74                 Red                   X1                Oil Light

74                 Blue                  X1                High Beams

74                 Green               X1                Neutral

 

From What I've read LEDs work most effectively behind the same colored lens as the bulb. That's why I matched each lens with the like colored LED. The LCD screen actually has a blue filter behind it, that's why blue bulbs. I had a spare cluster a few years ago and experimented with taking that filter out. While I was able to remove it, I wasn't able to reassemble the LCD and have it work again. I know at least one other VFRD'er was able to do it, and put red LEDs behind it. I think others have used red LEDs with the blue filter in place, but I think it's pretty washed out (and I'm not really into red anyway).

I think there might be LEDs out there that will work in the Fi Light, but I'm not sure. I guess it needs some sort of resistor (I'm not great with electrickery) because standard LED bulbs will be on at half power when the light should be off, and full power when it should be on. So I left the incandescent bulb in there. Literally the only incandescent bulb on my entire bike.

 

(Not my) 2000 taken today with standard incandescent:

image.jpg

 

My '99 taken in 2014 (Post Crash Rebuild) with LEDs:

BDA687D5-1E43-44F4-9EB0-242D9155F8C2.jpeg

 

Super Blue LCD Screen:

622C13A2-CFC8-4D5B-9DBB-91665FA38021.jpeg

 

My ‘99 today, same garage, same lighting as 1st pic. (High beam indicator works, I just didn't have it on in either pic)

image.jpg

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LED swap out:

 

Remove the upper fairing and headlight, and gauge surround (or move out of the way), then remove 3 10mm nuts holding the cluster to the fairing stay. Bottom right also has a wire tab:

96B0E455-7715-4DA6-92D4-4CEB1BD18044.jpeg

 

Pop the air temp sensor wire holder out:

E9A21A71-C1C4-4C3D-ADB5-C44FA452F4D1.jpeg

 

Remove the screw holding the air temp sensor and remove sensor for slack to move the cluster:

5867CB25-9C5A-40A2-B3D2-0E37CD6C94CD.jpeg

 

Two blue are turn signal indicators, 2 red left side top and bottom are the LCD screen, 3 red in a diagonal are the dials, and the 4 small black are the "idiot" lights: 

04684684-0F0A-437F-80FA-4784DEB91D91.jpeg

 

Quarter turn twist and they pull out:

BA48FBB6-4682-4672-84DF-DE1EE59F6DBB.jpeg

 

Replace with appropriate color LED and replace the bulb holder. Most LEDs are polarity specific, so test each one before moving on. If you reinstall and it doesn't light up turn the bulb 180 degrees and retry. No need to remove the LED bulb from the holder, just spin the entire thing 180:

1AEB5B5D-9FEF-4128-B960-74BBF084ECF0.jpeg

 

Put it all back together and make sure there aren't any dark spots.:beer:

 

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you need to replace the 2 o-rings that go from the thermostat into the cylinders, while your there, they will be disintegrated by now. You can get aftermarket boots, they are nicely made, I think made in Japan, well worth the cost for renewed flexibility.  Maybe loose the tank braw from 2002, unless you really love it, I was shamed into removing mine 10 years ago, and it does bring it into the 21st century. Can we see a pic of the other side?

Good times wrenching!

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That is not a tank bra, it is the base for a Bagster tankbag.

 

as.jpg.e9c10073d4a5062738bca5224911e96c.jpg.e0b3c07135d87d2fda318ff3da730556.jpg.0db57bce3cf61777af87554493817e0f.jpg

 

 

 

 

But I concur, it looks fugly by itself.... :laughing6-hehe:

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