jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Why are there 4 prongs on the starter solenoid when only 3 go into the wiring harness? And where exactly does the 12v melty red wire from the solenoid go to? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 22, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2020 2 hours ago, jstehman said: Why are there 4 prongs on the starter solenoid when only 3 go into the wiring harness? And where exactly does the 12v melty red wire from the solenoid go to? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Hope this drawing helps. If there is a physical 4th electrical connection on the Starter Relay it might be giving you an added option to connecting to the Main Fuse A, as you can see there appears a second link from the Fuse within the Starter Relay however it only needs to supply the RED wire. Using a meter you could easily verify if this is so, also you can see that the "melty wire" goes from the battery positive terminal R/Y wire to main Fuse B then to an inline connector via the R/W wire. NOTE - The graphic for the 4P plug on the Starter Relay is confusing, it appears the RED wire is also feeding the Relay Coil, this is NOT correct, it's just the 4P Graphic for that type of plug! ONLY the Y/R and G/R wires feed the relay coil. Hope this answers your question. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 So the Red melty wire from the starter solenoid goes to the other end of the main fuse B which goes to the battery positive ? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 22, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2020 16 minutes ago, jstehman said: So the R/w wire from the starter solenoid goes to the other end of the main fuse B which goes to the battery positive ? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Sorry I no longer have a 6gen, however Fuse B which sits beside the Starter Relay should according to the diagram have a Red/Yellow wire and a Red/White connected to it. The Red/Yellow will either go directly to the battery Pos terminal OR the main heavy Positive Terminal of the Starter Relay. The Red/White wire from the fuse goes off to the Inline Connector ultimately connecting your R/R output to the battery. If your Fuse wire colours are the opposite meaning the R/W wire is connected to the Main Positive of the Starter OR battery positive and the R/Y wire goes to the Inline connector it won't matter jack s..t. As long as the connection is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 One end of the fuse is red/yellow connected to battery large cable connection positive. Then it leads to fuse B and is changed to red/white wire that goes to reg,/rec? Then the Red wire from the starter relay has nothing to do with the charging wires? And why would it heat up enough to melt the connector if the issue is in the charging system? Sorry I'm trying to wrap my head around this Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 22, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2020 35 minutes ago, jstehman said: So the Red melty wire from the starter solenoid goes to the other end of the main fuse B which goes to the battery positive ? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Think you've got yourself locked into some form of loop! One end of the Fuse MUST end up at the Battery Positive. The other MUST end up at the Positive Output of the R/R (as well as feeding various electrical loads via Main Fuse B). Either connection at Main Fuse B could create the melty wire syndrome depending on which of the two Fuse spade type connection develop a poor hi resistance contact. Am I making sense here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 22, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2020 23 minutes ago, jstehman said: Then the Red wire from the starter relay has nothing to do with the charging wires? And why would it heat up enough to melt the connector if the issue is in the charging system? Sorry I'm trying to wrap my head around this Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Correct, the Red wire via Main Fuse A is the main Power to your Ignition Switch as well as the permanent 12v supply to keep your clock ticking over. However ALL 12v are ultimately derived from the Battery or once the engine is running the R/R. The melty stuff for Main Fuse B, I guess could be exaggerated if your R/R was playing up, but then so to would your charging votltage be not correct! Fuse B is the supply feed for ALL the EFI stuff while Ignition is on without engine running, so you would imagine that once the engine is running there would be minimal current through the Fuse B as the R/R would tend to take over from the Battery. However, for whatever reason over time the Main Fuse B connections seem to suffer from either overheating or oxidisation to form hi resistance joints causing the burnt fuse and wiring issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 Well I just noticed not long ago the red wire from the starter relay has melted the plastic housing.. could have happened when fuse B melted down on the previous owner. The manual had the If a Fuse Blows page marked Now I'm having Increased difficulty in starting the bike lately.. Cranks over just fine. Battery is at 12.8v+ Just won't fire for what seems like an eternity. Only on cold starts. Hot starts are instant. Wonder if these are connected somehow? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 22, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2020 11 minutes ago, jstehman said: Well I just noticed not long ago the red wire from the starter relay has melted the plastic housing.. could have happened when fuse B melted down. That was last summer Now I'm having Increased difficulty in starting the bike lately.. Cranks over just fine. Battery is at 12.8v+ Just won't fire for what seems like an eternity. Only on cold starts. Hot starts are instant. Wonder if these are connected somehow? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Hmm. Haven't changed the fuel type you use lately have you? The high octane Premium Fuels can have an effect on cold starting especially in your very cold environment. Premium Fuels are far less volatile than your standard fuels 87/89 or whatever, so the fuel does not mix with air as readily making cold starts difficult. This might explain why you have no issues with hot starts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 No I use 87. It's always taken a few seconds of cranking to start.. but today i didnt think she was going to start! Once she fires, she idles at 2k, then drops after she warms. Idles at 1200. Hot starts are Instant. Runs great otherwise Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 22, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2020 2 minutes ago, jstehman said: No I use 87. It's always taken a few seconds of cranking to start.. but today i didnt think she was going to start! Once she fires, she idles at 2k, then drops after she warms. Idles at 1200. Hot starts are Instant. Runs great otherwise Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk How old are your spark plugs and are you sure they are the correct type? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 I have not checked those yet.. but I assume they are original at 25k miles now Air filter was absolutely gross so I'm sure they didn't touch plugs Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted March 22, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2020 Don't discount your battery and/or poor connections. I know you've stated it cranks over fine, but on a cold start while cranking there might be minimal left for the EFI stuff to fire up. How old is your battery? and perhaps it's worth having it load tested, your local auto parts supplier can generally load test batteries. Many a strange issue has been caused by a battery down on capacity. Failing that I would be checking the 12v at the output from the Engine Stop Relay Black/White wire while cranking as this is the Main power feed to all EFI and ECM stuff. There is a critical voltage level (can't remember at what that is) where the fuel injectors will not fire. Wonder wether poor Starter Valve synch might be the cause your cold start situation? - just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 I still have not done the regulator upgrade to the mosfet unit bypassing the harness and going straight to the battery. Have some free time soon thanks to the virus and no schools openHave to convince my wife I need to go to the auto parts place to test a battery during this lockdownSent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted March 22, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2020 No lockdown here, but the appeal to use common sense and avoid larger crowds. so I'd have no problem myself to give the autoparts shop a call to see if they are open. My wife will see things different as always Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 Changed out the crispy connector. I tried using ox-gard that's the greyish stuff today Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstehman Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 She started a bit easier today.. 37F outside. Fast idle up to 2500 then back down to 1500 then 1200.Battery voltage after she fired up was 14v@2500rpmAs she warmed up voltage dropped to 13.2v@1200 rpm.Voltage hovered there until the fan came on then voltage dropped to 12.5v at idle. When I revved her to 3500 rpm, voltage increased to 13.83v.I still have to change out the stock regulator and do the direct to battery charging, but the numbers seem ok?Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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