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Clutch problem


Nate87

Question

Ok I’m looking for a little help. 
I have a fourth gen. My battery was dead I tried cold starting it w push starting. 
finally gave up bought a batt. And found out I have no clutch pressure. I tried bleeding and adding fluid. still no clutch. 
so obviously I’m doing something wrong. I am not sure is there air in my line still cable or clutch it’s self. I noticed the brake space cylinder has been changed but not the clutch cylinder. 
any advice and guidance? I have done clutches on a car but nvr hydraulic so I honestly don’t know where to start or go.  

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6 answers to this question

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  • Member Contributer

Clutch is -like the brakes- hydraulic.

 

Look up a few youtube movies on how to bleed properly. If you do it was just a spanner, clear line and jar you need to get the sequence/timing right.

 

 

How long ago is it that the clutch WAS working properly?

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my cut and paste brake/ clutch help..

before you start.. get your drink of choice..

 bleeding the clutch and brake lines
.. its so damned easy a cave man can do it.

take a clear tube.works best if the tube has about 8 inches going UP from the nipple then curving down..  use a zip tie or tape to hold it up..that way you have a good clear view of whats coming out before it dumps . and place on brake/slave nipple. it should be snug or tight..
angle bars so the brake  MC is level.. take the top off...

loosen nipple at the brake/slave.. sit back and have a beer..or your fav drink...
GRAVITY will do its job.. :fing02:
no squeezen , no pumpin , no bitchen , no yellin , no screaming , no fuzz, no muss. :1:

look as fluid enters tube.. any bubble? or just fluid? nasty colored ? or clear ? add new fluid to the mc as it gets LOW...
tighten nipple when you feel enough fluid has gone through.. normally about 2/3 cup for me.. repeat with other side.
place cap on MC. squeeze lever. does the brake firm up? wheel stop? good!
if not. remove MC FROM BAR.. angle so the hose is at the lowest spot aka end of lever pointed at the sky... tap hose and mc with a screwdriver handle to move any bubbles trapped in the banjo bolt  area.

repeat on clutch..
place in 1st gear and give a squeeze.. it will not be anywhere close to the firmness of a brake.. does the bike roll? presto youre done. :cheerleader:

 

the rear is almost the same.. you just need to slowly pump the foot lever and watch the fluid rise in the clear tube until its nice and clear. then tighten nipple.

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Thankyou for the help given. To answer the first question it worked when I got the bike and a little after it stopped working around the time I stared trying to push start and pop the clutch 🥺😢. It’s a fourth gen and so much fun I just getting started getting the kinks out and really learning as I go 

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an air pocket can hide behind the slave piston unless it's fully retracted by using a C-clamp while bleeding.  in hard cases, fluid can be injected UPWARD with a syringe applied to the bleed nipple.

 

another aid to bleeding is to remove the mc from the bar and hold it vertical by the lever while tapping on the line to eliminate a possible air bubble in the banjo bolt area.

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  • Member Contributer

If you don't have any pressure at the lever at all, it may mean the master cylinder was run dry and needs priming... loosen that banjo up there and get the flow started.  Then, bleed as normal... zip tie the lever to the handlebar and leave overnight, this gets bubbles in the  line to rise and purge themselves.

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  • Member Contributer

and protect/be careful with spilling on paint.....

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