Jump to content

Front Brake Improvement?


Magsz

Recommended Posts

Heya guys!

 

Short background.  I had a sixth generation VFR, a 2007.  I loved it but sold it to a buddy so that he could get riding.  Since then I've had a myriad of different bikes, most of them with some seriously good brakes.

 

I recently picked up a GORGEOUS, low mileage 8th gen and well, the front brake is kinda...squishy and lacks feel.

 

I really like the M50 caliper that has really good initial bite and strong feel through the entire braking range.

 

Any suggestions on how to shore up the front brake?  Pads, steel lines, different caliper? (if that's even a thing).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was hating the ABS and traction control but that all changed when I put some Michelin rubber on.

Start with the simplest and move up.

Check your tire pressure
Clean your brakes
Check your suspension setup
Make sure your lines are bled with good fluid.

Double check that what you have is performing the best it can before you start throwing parts at it.

Start with pads/tires
Then rotors/braided lines
Then calipers
Then master cylinder

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
3 hours ago, fink said:

Mine is exactly the same, even after replacing fluid and bleeding correctly, can pull lever back to bars.   Still stops the bike tho.

Which setting is your lever on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/10/2019 at 11:31 AM, fink said:

Mine is exactly the same, even after replacing fluid and bleeding correctly, can pull lever back to bars.   Still stops the bike tho.

Same brother.

Basically there's a ton of slop before the brakes bite.  Once they bite you essentially have what accounts to mush through the travel range.  The brake is strong and will stop the bike but it doesn't have the same "feel" as some of the better braking systems out there.  Obviously there's a component difference so im not knocking the viffer.

 

Ill start with bleeding the brakes and seeing where that gets me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

I am going to do mine again over the winter.   Remove pads, back off pistons and block then refill and bleed system and see if that makes any difference. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

There's another problem someplace from reading the posts.  Clean new DOT 4 fluid with no air in the lines, with the brakes set on 2 (my preference, or 1 if you choose) and the brake levers won't even come close to the bars on my 8th gen.   The brakes on my standard will lock the wheels immediately if that's what I wanted to do (I certainly don't).  The front brake rotors are larger on the 8th gen. than other gen's. so there should be no stopping issue.  FWIW. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
On 12/11/2019 at 1:07 PM, fink said:

Number 5

Apologies for the delay ...set the lever to 1 or 2
 

Mines is on 1 and stops a good inch off the throttle grip 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

There is some variability going on.   I recently replaced my brake (and clutch) fluid, have it on 2 and the lever stops much more than an inch from the throttle grip.  Heck if I know...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Properly working 8th gen brakes are fine but could use improvement as they are lacking in feel and stoping power. I think braided lines and possibly different pads may be all that is needed. They don't bother me at all except when I ride the VFR right after the S1000R as the brakes on that are very very good, great feel and 1 finger if your so inclined.

 

If you are getting anywhere near the bar when stoping your 8th gen something is wrong, for safety's sake don't stop trouble shooting until you find the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
12 hours ago, HighSideNZ said:

Braided lines will make a huge difference

 

Maybe..... 😎 If you have the cash and like tge looks, why not.

 

If $ are scarcer and you cannot live with what are great brakes, different pads would be my preference.

 

Or hone your riding, anticipation and braking SKILLS first... :beer:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I have been bleeding mine more often than other bikes because of this as well. I also can touch the bar with the lever, but it does stop me so I can't complain. I switched to EBC HH pads to help a little, but it's still not there. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/28/2020 at 5:12 AM, Rsparky said:

I have been bleeding mine more often than other bikes because of this as well. I also can touch the bar with the lever, but it does stop me so I can't complain. I switched to EBC HH pads to help a little, but it's still not there. 

If you can pull the lever to the bar you have air in the system, Has the bike got a secondary master cylinder on the front left caliper, I'm not sure which generation they stopped fitting them, if so you need to fully understand the bleeding of the system, no amount of bleeding without the SMC rotated will clear the air out. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
1 hour ago, Rob2m said:

If you can pull the lever to the bar you have air in the system, Has the bike got a secondary master cylinder on the front left caliper, I'm not sure which generation they stopped fitting them, if so you need to fully understand the bleeding of the system, no amount of bleeding without the SMC rotated will clear the air out. 

 New vfr doesn’t have one.

 

Mine did the same until Bent suggested altering the span adjuster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Rob2m said:

If you can pull the lever to the bar you have air in the system, Has the bike got a secondary master cylinder on the front left caliper, I'm not sure which generation they stopped fitting them, if so you need to fully understand the bleeding of the system, no amount of bleeding without the SMC rotated will clear the air out. 

On the Honda CBS or LBS, the secondary master cylinder is actuated by the rotating force of the front disks in relation to the forks.
 

SMC hydraulics are NOT PLUMBED to the front lever - front master cylinder hydraulic system at all and should have no bearing on lever feel.

 

Air in the SMC and rear hydraulics will definitely affect pedal feel but not lever feel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
4 hours ago, 8200rpm said:

On the Honda CBS or LBS, the secondary master cylinder is actuated by the rotating force of the front disks in relation to the forks.
 

SMC hydraulics are NOT PLUMBED to the front lever - front master cylinder hydraulic system at all and should have no bearing on lever feel.

 

Air in the SMC and rear hydraulics will definitely affect pedal feel but not lever feel. 

8th Gen bikes which is what we are talking about  DO NOT have linked brakes so this is irrelevant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've been having this feeling too, brakes working fine but needing a lot of pull on the lever. Bled them several times without making much difference but then had an idea from my Ducati 900SS days, as the Ducati had an extra bleed nipple built into the front brake casting which really helped with bleeding the front end. So, I fitted a new banjo bolt at the reservoir which had an integral bleed nipple for the top of the line. Bled the system again top and bottom and it has certainly improved things. The banjo bolts are stainless and made by Hel Performance if anyone's interested. I think the only thing left would be stainless lines but I'm not going down that route yet. Fitted one to the clutch reservoir as well, for symmetry's sake if nothing else.

 

Ducati front brake.jpg

 

2020-04-15 front brake & clutch reservoir banjos.JPG

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.