Member Contributer Lannyl81 Posted November 25, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted November 25, 2019 Have questions on removing the camshafts; with crank at "T1", both 1 & 3 camshafts gears have the lines level with the head...exactly where they are supposed to be, cylinder #1 is at TDC, but cylinder #3 is not as the intake cam lobe is just beginning to open the valve. So is the 1 & 3 camshafts removed with #3 not at TDC? I have not checked, but I assume that 2 & 4 are going to be the same, with #2 at TDC, but not #4. Just want to be sure I am not missing something before I remove the cams so as to correct valve clearances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted November 25, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted November 25, 2019 Are you sure the Intake Valve of #3 is opening? It should be closing, you might be turning the engine in the wrong direction! because in 180deg #3 is at TDC on compression stroke. Same would be for #2 and #4, as #4 is also 180deg after #2. Firing Order is 1-3-2-4. Cylinder #1 at TDC + 180deg = #3 at TDC + 270deg = #2 at TDC + 180deg = #4 at TDC + 90deg back to #1 at TDC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lannyl81 Posted November 25, 2019 Author Member Contributer Share Posted November 25, 2019 Grum: you are correct, #3 is closing, not opening....forgot that cams turn CCW when I wrote above......duh!.....thank you. Will be removing the rear cams this afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lannyl81 Posted November 26, 2019 Author Member Contributer Share Posted November 26, 2019 Removed one cam at a time, removed the shims that needed to be, measured it, then put everything back, cam holders in place, just not torqued down. New shims on order. Of the 16 valves, 8 were needing thinner shims to increase the clearance. Is this normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36B Posted November 26, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted November 26, 2019 59 minutes ago, Lannyl81 said: Removed one cam at a time, removed the shims that needed to be, measured it, then put everything back, cam holders in place, just not torqued down. New shims on order. Of the 16 valves, 8 were needing thinner shims to increase the clearance. Is this normal? It would be smart to measure the rest for two reasons: - You might not need new shims - It is easier next time; no need to remove cams to order new shims When you get the new shims and replace, then I would measure the remaining shims Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lannyl81 Posted January 6, 2020 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2020 I did remove and measure all of the shims; made a spreadsheet of original measurements/shims and then the ones I changed.....ready for the next time. Overall job was not all that bad....never dropped a shim. I did get the front intake cam off a tooth as I did not allow for the position change when the cam holder is tighten.....but saw it after I had tighten it down....so I got to take it back off, move the cam a tooth and do it again. Rotated engine many times and watched the cam/valves/pistons through the firing order....all was good. Got a tube of the HondaBond for the half-circles on the head covers, put everything back together. Connected my carb synch lines, waited a few days so the HondaBond to set, then applied power to the fuel pump to fill the carb bowls, then hit the START button, engine fired-up pretty quickly. Over about two days I adjusted the carb synch, got the carbs levels within 2mm...called it good. Put side fairings on, waited for a warm day to take it out, which was yesterday.....ran good but with a hot start problem....starting new thread. Thanks again for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36B Posted January 6, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted January 6, 2020 So you got to the finish line without nasty surprises 🙂 On this old Nimbus you don't need a micrometer - hell, you don't even need a feeler gauge: first adjust so no gap, then return screw 1 turn back on exhaust and 1/2 turn back on intake, secure with counter nut - job done 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted January 7, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2020 8 hours ago, RC36B said: So you got to the finish line without nasty surprises 🙂 On this old Nimbus you don't need a micrometer - hell, you don't even need a feeler gauge: first adjust so no gap, then return screw 1 turn back on exhaust and 1/2 turn back on intake, secure with counter nut - job done 🙂 Love it! actually if one knows the screw pitch for any screw-adjusted tappet, I guess you could work out how many degrees of rotation from zero clearance would get the required clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36B Posted January 7, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2020 3 hours ago, Terry said: Love it! actually if one knows the screw pitch for any screw-adjusted tappet, I guess you could work out how many degrees of rotation from zero clearance would get the required clearance. You got it - that is exactly the trick used. It's a metric 0.75 pitch screw. So that gives you 0.75mm for exhaust and 0.375mm in intake - which is about what you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lannyl81 Posted January 7, 2020 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 7, 2020 Ahhh....those were the days..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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