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Rear wheel nuts seized / won’t undo!


ChrisBezz

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Well, I suppose I’m open for some criticism over this, but my ‘99 VFR hasn’t moved out of its heated garage for 3+ ish years.

Yes, I know, how could I have left her sleeping, but life hasn’t allowed....

Anyway, I wanted to remove the wheels for a tyre check / renewal at my usual depot.  Except the rear wheel nuts won’t move. Even with a long steel 75cm pipe helping with the job.

Any ideas how to remove these stubborn nuts? I’m concerned if I lay on with the pressure too much I may well snap the studs....

Plus, trying to press the rear brake lever as well as applying pressure on the lever seems to be an acquired art....

I've been at this for 3 days, also using WD40 to penetrate the treads with no luck. 

Any help would be welcome.....

 

 

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38 minutes ago, VFR78 said:

Righty tighty, lefty loosely!

From which side of the bike? :goofy:

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As a penetrating fluid WD40 is not necessarily the best, you'd be best getting a specific product.

 

I'm guessing that since it hasn't moved out for 3 years it is minus an MOT, so a ride down to the garage and them using their air tools to impact it off is not an option?

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CalumL,

Thanks for your comments. WD40 was all I had, my old tin of penetrating oil was almost empty, I was trying to get at the back of the domed nuts. Not easy.

Regarding roadworthy status, I had the bike recommissioned and serviced in June at my normal garage.

She is taxed, tested and insured, also serviced, all good!

I am not sure about the tyres because of their age, so I was going to take the rear off to put in my car boot and go to see my tyre man for his opinion.

So that is where the problem started. I'm worried about the studs shearing. Yes, I'd be better going down to my tyre man on the bike, but the weather here in Staffordshire is rubbish at the mo. 

I might be worrying about nothing regarding the tyres, after all they passed the MOT along with the rest of the bike!

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I would expect that if they were good in June, then they should be good now, especially if you make sure it is just a gentle ride down to the tyre place. Just make sure that they are up to the correct pressures, have no flat spots (if they had lost pressure) or cracks and you should be good to go.

 

I know what you mean about the weather, but hopefully you will be able to find a suitable break in the weather soon.

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Absolutely agree that a rattle gun/impact wrench is the right approach, and in my experience a lot gentler on the fasteners as well (lots of little rapid taps versus one almighty slow twist with a long breaker bar). Heat is also very useful but would be difficult to do without affecting the wheel paint.

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My tip would be to first put the impact gun to "ON" and give the bolt a litte tap.  Then switch rotation to OFF.

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A big hammer makes a nice poor man's impact.

 

I would give the studs/nuts a close inspection for stretching/galling once you get the wheel off. It shouldn't be that tight. Galvanic corrosion could be the culprit. If there is a white-ish coating on the threads, but otherwise OK clean 'em up with a wire brush/wheel, and apply a very light coating of anti-sieze on assembly.

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5 hours ago, ChrisBezz said:

@Dutchy. I’m not familiar with impact guns so I don’t understand the workings of these guns.....

 

It's what they use at Tyre dealers, it's an electric socket wrench with a hammer action to shock the nuts into releasing. Very powerful if you use one of theirs....indeed you might try popping down to your local Kwikfit or other and asking them if they'll kindly have a go at removing them for you. 

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Dutchy, don't tempt me.... I have a weakness for tools! (ask my Wife!)

 

"Also handy too loosen 65 year old clutch baskets..."

 

Also, I didn't make it to Foleys Motorcycles yesterday.

Cold weather and more important- icy roads in Staffordshire told me not to risk the journey, so I telephoned and cancelled, maybe next week if I spot a "window in the weather"!!

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