regulator rectifier cooling mods, fan or air hose

[Jamesvfr851]

Hi all so have had my first vfr 2001 5gen for two weeks, and been reading all the r/r issues

 

So looking to find out how to add a cooling fan and also if any one else has added hose running from the front of the bike to the r/r to help cool it? Hose idea I read on a form but the links are now gone. 

 

spoken to my mate which was a honda michanic and now a ducati one. So his answer was how long dose a light bulb last, or if its not broke don't fix it which I understand his fought process.  Only thing is I don't want stranded in middle of no where. 

 

I do have a mosfet rectifier which I got of the newer cbr600rr and have the triumph part no t 2500676 subharnes and the 30amp fuse,  so I could do the hole change of the r/r but I have read many mave had same issues with that set up as well. 

 

So am looking for ways to cool the r/r before I go doing the r/r change 

[Dutchy]

Hi James,

 

 

Since you fitted a MOSFET, I'd fit a small (LED or LCD) voltmeter in/near the dash so you can keep an eye on things. Once a year inspect your wiring (start or end of riding season) and be done with it.

MOSFETs donot run as hot as the OEM ones.

[Jamesvfr851]

26 minutes ago, Dutchy said:

Hi James,

 

 

Since you fitted a MOSFET, I'd fit a small (LED or LCD) voltmeter in/near the dash so you can keep an eye on things. Once a year inspect your wiring (start or end of riding season) and be done with it.

MOSFETs donot run as hot as the OEM ones.

I have the mosfet but don't plan to fit unless the newer 2001 regulator Go's 

[Jamesvfr851]

Just now, Jamesvfr851 said:

I have the mosfet but don't plan to fit unless the newer 2001 regulator Go's 

Looking for was that have been done and worked to cool the original one 

[RC36B]

39 minutes ago, Jamesvfr851 said:

Hi all so have had my first vfr 2001 5gen for two weeks, and been reading all the r/r issues

 

So looking to find out how to add a cooling fan and also if any one else has added hose running from the front of the bike to the r/r to help cool it? Hose idea I read on a form but the links are now gone. 

 

spoken to my mate which was a honda michanic and now a ducati one. So his answer was how long dose a light bulb last, or if its not broke don't fix it which I understand his fought process.  Only thing is I don't want stranded in middle of no where. 

 

I do have a mosfet rectifier which I got of the newer cbr600rr and have the triumph part no t 2500676 subharnes and the 30amp fuse,  so I could do the hole change of the r/r but I have read many mave had same issues with that set up as well. 

 

So am looking for ways to cool the r/r before I go doing the r/r change 

About cooling air... the chances are it does not help anything. The problem is not so much getting air in - it is getting used air out. So reducing inlet and channeling the air could make better cooling. You don't get good speed in the cooling air if it has nowhere to go - just like traffic at the light at the end of a high way. This is something NACA (forerunner of NASA) studied way back in time (btw. some related work by NACA is found on the 4th gen - the inlet ducts on the sides of the fairing)

[Fritzer]

Why is your rr creating so much heat that you need to run a fan on it?  Are you running hi amp drawing accessories?  

 

If not, I would suspect some bad connections resulting in weird power draw.

 

I have had charging issues on my '99, but they were all solved by getting solid stator to rr to battery connections.

[Marvelicious]

So you already have a MOSFET R/R, but you're waiting to fit it until the original goes tits up? I'm with Dutchy: just fit the MOSFET with a voltmeter and be done with it. It's obviously on your mind, would you rather have this problem looming over your shoulder, or would you rather take care of it?

 

I can understand your mate's position from a mechanic's point of view, but the mechanic isn't the one who gets stranded when it fails. 

[Fritzer]

If you plan on installing a voltmeter, here is an example of the one installed a few months ago.  The toggle switch goes from voltage reading when ignition switch is on, and the other for reading when switch off.

[Jamesvfr851]

2 hours ago, Fritzer said:

Why is your rr creating so much heat that you need to run a fan on it?  Are you running hi amp drawing accessories?  

 

If not, I would suspect some bad connections resulting in weird power draw.

 

I have had charging issues on my '99, but they were all solved by getting solid stator to rr to battery connections.

Well I think it's running good, not had any issues nor did the last owner, am just thinking how I can keep it working as good as it should. 

[Jamesvfr851]

1 hour ago, Fritzer said:

If you plan on installing a voltmeter, here is an example of the one installed a few months ago.  The toggle switch goes from voltage reading when ignition switch is on, and the other for reading when switch off.

Did that bracket come with it

[Jamesvfr851]

Have ordered up one of these, 

[Dutchy]

I have this one

 

 

http://www.signaldynamics.com/heads-up-voltage-monitor/

[MBrane]

This one for me: https://www.roadstercycle.com/Motorcycle voltage monitor.htm

 

Mounted in the upper right corner of the meter cover. Wired to the main feed from the ignition switch.

 

I did mount a small 40mm axial fan on the R/R just for those occasions when I'm idling in hot weather.

[gll429]

throw a computer fan on the r/r fins and it WILL help keep it cool..  installed one 10 years ago on stock r/r .. still going strong..and yes, i am a honda tech.

[Jamesvfr851]

6 hours ago, gll429 said:

throw a computer fan on the r/r fins and it WILL help keep it cool..  installed one 10 years ago on stock r/r .. still going strong..and yes, i am a honda tech.

This is what I have ordered up, 2x USB cool fans for when at idle. 

 

But also going to rig up the outher r/r for later date. 

[SimonJ]

An alternative to installing a voltmeter on the bike is installing a bluetooth voltmeter that sends the info to an app on your phone. I just installed one on my bike and it seems to work well. Connects direct to the battery, lets you see charging voltage as you ride along. Assumes you have a phone mount but many people do. Might draw some current because it's always attached but I doubt it will draw much - and anyway it'll let me know if the charge drops by sending me a message! Product is Powertech Bluetooth 12V Battery Monitor for Smartphones (QP 2265) and I got it from Jaycar electronics here in Sydney, Australia. Good luck...

 

[Jamesvfr851]

So far have fitted my voltmeter and added a on/off switch 

[Jamesvfr851]

So far it's about 12 to 12.5 and 14to 14.4 when running 

[DadAgain]

So - I have a voltmeter coming in the post soon:

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-DC-8-16V-Display-Volt-Meter-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Blue-LED-12V-MA1005/362608645312?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item546d28d4c0:g:oj4AAOSwHF5ckF-B&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKs4ijYSTGv0%2BdOMHOyVlosLenCs4%2ByCHhdyHXueXM0nqLg3xCEtqvyNQJ9yEZzvh2PZaeAwUcvVsaqbhMk5COeBTIDPpQ%2BfMqq6wI0pt1rSJghiMPEG6kon8FbOS55Fu4TSac0abbRd3U5zFEOSpimXZgKjfumtcymRREHhevUeFuhWKq9iMiUB01VCpTVE6AxCKzvka1ABh1FPp2h%2Brge349NQLlMJRhUhrB%2FHsn1U3UuO5k0S2y44nW%2FC7VQ4jer5pocnxuvIi6VV%2BRtuKz7e69Z35iblheeXevz809wNoiLAUZKzM5mlD5c3d8Tm0k7A%2BnUU8l3%2F89S4aKCubVatPyLX6QywnoC0PGDMQguFbr%2FW%2FEwL4lkrahigTjfU5iKp3lM32lozM4InvZH%2FYA57anfgfWxeq1UIpw1ywKllFPMaXJ0EMZ%2FgUXr3HMnWHjtw%2BCZ6aw%2BOVmBy%2BZtypXbgFbeok1lcPB9tHRHQj%2FL4WgAUWAmkNI%2FZvmbKQmmOIkLlNhoGNUjwkjpPCnBMhgGYiuZR9mzwVrCUhiGb7taB0T6CyVFtJEHViKbEln0fZu3UxxrBeyRrz7Z3P4IUHWM2ASxNU4%2F63ayUqO8ID9XDt%2F1dCdIXUBw6hJ0fsBRmE8SdC83%2Bj2K55DoLuhGl7JlE%2B%2F%2FFyesFb7v7eSqFLCzgGwv4Vd043lcfL5h2RECtHxzMXsKCQ6ewtZ9xsxlqGkmLzFY0w09G7dAOXmteZIyIAZ%2FBa8hTnclvaaN5sEPnt4&checksum=362608645312a35ae58f709949f1962550da9d996b7d

 

 

Trying to work out where to wire it in. I figure the black cable wants to go back to battery negative terminal and the red to some kind of switched power so its only reading when ignition is on.  I had a poke around today with a multimeter and found a big cable junction at the left side of the dash with one of the wires a black a white one that carried 12.6V with ignition and 0V without. 

 

Can anyone comment on whether theres any reason why I shouldn't just splice the red cable of my meter into this cable and run the black back to the battery? Is there a better place to wire these in (given I'm hopeless and struggle to identify *anything* under the covers of my bike!)

 

Any thoughts/advice would be welcome!

[Cogswell]

4 hours ago, DadAgain said:

So - I have a voltmeter coming in the post soon:

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-DC-8-16V-Display-Volt-Meter-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Blue-LED-12V-MA1005/362608645312?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item546d28d4c0:g:oj4AAOSwHF5ckF-B&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKs4ijYSTGv0%2BdOMHOyVlosLenCs4%2ByCHhdyHXueXM0nqLg3xCEtqvyNQJ9yEZzvh2PZaeAwUcvVsaqbhMk5COeBTIDPpQ%2BfMqq6wI0pt1rSJghiMPEG6kon8FbOS55Fu4TSac0abbRd3U5zFEOSpimXZgKjfumtcymRREHhevUeFuhWKq9iMiUB01VCpTVE6AxCKzvka1ABh1FPp2h%2Brge349NQLlMJRhUhrB%2FHsn1U3UuO5k0S2y44nW%2FC7VQ4jer5pocnxuvIi6VV%2BRtuKz7e69Z35iblheeXevz809wNoiLAUZKzM5mlD5c3d8Tm0k7A%2BnUU8l3%2F89S4aKCubVatPyLX6QywnoC0PGDMQguFbr%2FW%2FEwL4lkrahigTjfU5iKp3lM32lozM4InvZH%2FYA57anfgfWxeq1UIpw1ywKllFPMaXJ0EMZ%2FgUXr3HMnWHjtw%2BCZ6aw%2BOVmBy%2BZtypXbgFbeok1lcPB9tHRHQj%2FL4WgAUWAmkNI%2FZvmbKQmmOIkLlNhoGNUjwkjpPCnBMhgGYiuZR9mzwVrCUhiGb7taB0T6CyVFtJEHViKbEln0fZu3UxxrBeyRrz7Z3P4IUHWM2ASxNU4%2F63ayUqO8ID9XDt%2F1dCdIXUBw6hJ0fsBRmE8SdC83%2Bj2K55DoLuhGl7JlE%2B%2F%2FFyesFb7v7eSqFLCzgGwv4Vd043lcfL5h2RECtHxzMXsKCQ6ewtZ9xsxlqGkmLzFY0w09G7dAOXmteZIyIAZ%2FBa8hTnclvaaN5sEPnt4&checksum=362608645312a35ae58f709949f1962550da9d996b7d

 

 

 

Trying to work out where to wire it in. I figure the black cable wants to go back to battery negative terminal and the red to some kind of switched power so its only reading when ignition is on.  I had a poke around today with a multimeter and found a big cable junction at the left side of the dash with one of the wires a black a white one that carried 12.6V with ignition and 0V without. 

 

Can anyone comment on whether theres any reason why I shouldn't just splice the red cable of my meter into this cable and run the black back to the battery? Is there a better place to wire these in (given I'm hopeless and struggle to identify *anything* under the covers of my bike!)

 

Any thoughts/advice would be welcome!

I have no idea what that wire powers, but if it's the ECU then I would not use it.  The ECU wants a stable power source and introducing even as minor a draw as a voltmeter might not be optimal.   I take my reading right off the battery through a relay, using the tail light wire as my tapped source to switch the relay.  If the tail light goes out I'm not too worried - I'll fix it sooner or later - but the critical functions controlling the engine I prefer to leave be.  It is possible to have voltage drops through various circuits on the bike that give misleading readings - taking it right off the battery is the most indicative of what's happening where it matters.  Even 6th gens have enough room under the seat for a relay and a quick internet search can help with wiring it up.  It's a good idea to include a fuse between the battery and the relay in the event of a short - the closer to the battery the better.  The draw is very low - I use a 3A fuse on mine and it's no problem. 

 

 

[Grum]

6 hours ago, DadAgain said:

 

Trying to work out where to wire it in. I figure the black cable wants to go back to battery negative terminal and the red to some kind of switched power so its only reading when ignition is on.  I had a poke around today with a multimeter and found a big cable junction at the left side of the dash with one of the wires a black a white one that carried 12.6V with ignition and 0V without. 

 

Can anyone comment on whether theres any reason why I shouldn't just splice the red cable of my meter into this cable and run the black back to the battery? Is there a better place to wire these in (given I'm hopeless and struggle to identify *anything* under the covers of my bike!)

 

Agree with Cogswell. Having your voltmeter connected as close as possible to the battery (Both Pos and Neg) via a relay is the best as you are minimising cable voltage drop.

However, if you don't want to go this way then here are couple of options, seeing you no doubt will be mounting the Voltmeter up near the Instrument Panel somewhere. DO YOU HAVE A CIRCUIT DIAGRAM? The Service Manual can be downloaded from this site.

 

1. If you can locate the Red/Black wire from your Ignition Switch, this goes directly to your Fuse Box, this is the main switched +12v from the switch. If you can tap into that wire either near the Ignition Switch or the Fuse Box, that would be a good 12v feed for your Voltmeter. Then find a good earth point or the battery Negative terminal for the Negative wire.

2. Locate your Bank Angle sensor at the front of your bike it will have 3 wires to it and a Green 3 pin plug. You could tap into the White/Black wire for your meter Positive and the Green wire for your Negative.

 

Suggestion - When you get your Voltmeter momentarily connect it Directly to your battery, take note of its voltage. Now start your engine, take note of the charging voltage. Then if you use option 1 or 2 you will have a good idea of what (if any) voltage drop you're seeing by not having it directly connected to the battery or via a relay.

 

NOTE - The Black/White wire you measured with 12.6v on it is the main power to your ECM and all the Fuel Injection stuff.!

Hope this helps!

[DadAgain]

Thanks guys - that helps a lot. I have no idea how to wire up a relay at all... Fortunately I have time on my side: delivery of meter isnt expected for a couple of weeks (new world order postal services are VERY slow), so I can have a look at the bike and try to research relays and see if I can make sense of it all and work out how they work!

[BusyLittleShop]

I installed a trick little 3 in 1 gauge that alternates between Temp Time and Volts...

 

 

[Terry]

3 hours ago, DadAgain said:

Thanks guys - that helps a lot. I have no idea how to wire up a relay at all... Fortunately I have time on my side: delivery of meter isnt expected for a couple of weeks (new world order postal services are VERY slow), so I can have a look at the bike and try to research relays and see if I can make sense of it all and work out how they work!

A relay is simply a magnetically actuated switch, usually with 4 poles (or terminals). You power the switching mechanism from a power source that is switched by the ignition key and so always on when the ignition is on (it is common to use something like a taillight or instrument light as a source), through the relay, then on to ground. When you switch on the ignition, this will close the relay switch. Feed power from your battery positive through a fuse to one switched terminal, the other switched terminal then supplies power to the voltmeter or whatever you wanted to power, then the other side of the voltmeter can connect to ground.

[Cogswell]

I visualize a relay as a "plus sign"  (+).  The switched (controlled by the ignition) power comes in say from the left side and continues across and out the right side to ground.  That's what changes the switch from off to on.  That's all it's doing - rather than you using your finger to manually throw it.  The load from the battery let's then say comes from the top, across the now closed switch on out the bottom to your load (in this case your volt meter).  The voltmeter is then grounded, completing the circuit.  So you have two sources coming in, one for the switch and one for the load, then the other two ultimately go to ground - the switch portion directly, and the other to ground through the load (voltmeter).    The tricky part is that the relay terminals have weird designations and some have 5 terminals rather than 4 - but in essence the concept is always the same.  I just added a relay and I still go back to look up each of the terminals and what the labeling means.   Some people wire their voltmeters with a manual switch so there isn't a constant (thought tiny) draw while the bike is off.  The manual switch is a version of a relay, it just uses human power to throw the switch instead of electrical power.