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71Rob

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6 minutes ago, Grum said:

Step - 2.

Remove both fuses. Again with your Red lead probe the two fuse contacts for each fuse. Do you get 12v on one side for each fuse?

voltage at right hand side of 20 amp fuse, both sides of 30 amp fuse, with fuses removed

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2 minutes ago, 71Rob said:

voltage at right hand side of 20 amp fuse, both sides of 30 amp fuse, with fuses removed

Step - 3 (this is fun)

Unplug the 4 pin plug at the top of the relay. And repeat Step 2 . Do you now have 12v at one side of each fuse contact ( fuses removed) ?

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22 minutes ago, Grum said:

Step - 3 (this is fun)

Unplug the 4 pin plug at the top of the relay. And repeat Step 2 . Do you now have 12v at one side of each fuse contact ( fuses removed) ?

lol, it is, voltage present at both sides of both fuses, fuses in, fuses removed, right hand side of 20 amp, left hand side of 30 amp

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13 minutes ago, 71Rob said:

lol, it is, voltage present at both sides of both fuses, fuses in, fuses removed, right hand side of 20 amp, left hand side of 30 amp

Step - 4.

With the plug still removed and your fuses reinserted. Note the Red wire and the Red/White wires on the removed plug, these two wires will be a heavier gauge than the other two. Measure on the relay side where each of the two wires go into the plug socket. Do you read 12v on each pin/socket within the relay for the two wires?

 

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3 minutes ago, Grum said:

Step - 4.

With the plug still removed and your fuses reinserted. Note the Red wire and the Red/White wires on the removed plug, these two wires will be a heavier gauge than the other two. Measure on the relay side where each of the two wire go into the plug socket. Do you read 12v on each pin/socket?

 

11.2 red wire, 0 red and white wire

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6 minutes ago, 71Rob said:

11.2 red wire, 0 red and white wire

 

6 minutes ago, 71Rob said:

11.2 red wire, 0 red and white wire

SORRY, miss read your last post and tested the plug and not the relay, yes 12v both sides of the relay

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10 minutes ago, 71Rob said:

 

SORRY, miss read your last post and tested the plug and not the relay, yes 12v both sides

Don't stuff up on me now! :wacko:

Step - 5. 

With your Ignition Swith to OFF (just incase you had it on). Reinsert the 4 pin plug. Now take your red meter lead to the Clock/Haz fuse and measure the Voltage at this fuse using the top of the fuse meter points I told you about. Do you measure 12v?

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3 minutes ago, Grum said:

Step - 5. 

With your Ignition Swith to OFF (just incase you had it on). Reinsert the 4 pin plug. Now take your red meter lead to the Clock/Haz fuse and measure the Voltage at this fuse using the top of the fuse meter points I told you about. Do you measure 12v?

yep , ignition off, 12v both sides of fuse

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1 minute ago, 71Rob said:

yep , ignition off, 12v both sides of fuse

Now we appear to be getting somewhere! The BIG test.

Step - 6

Switch On your Ignition. What happens? If nothing check the voltage at the Tail/Meter/Turn 10amp Fuse. Do you measure 12v?

 

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5 minutes ago, Grum said:

Now we appear to be getting somewhere! The BIG test.

Step - 6

Switch On your Ignition. What happens? If nothing check the voltage at the Tail/Meter/Turn 10amp Fuse. Do you measure 12v?

 

ignition on (nothing happens) sorry, measured the first time from the other side of the relay then realised when i came back in and posted my answer, this time measured from the other side of the relay and 12 volts either side of the fuse

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Is there something wrong with my English? Step 6 mentioned nothing about the relay! 

We are nearing the END........

Step - 7.

Ignition to OFF. Remove BOTH Main Fuses. Remove the Clock/Haz Fuse. Now set your meter to continuity or low ohms or buzzer mode. With one lead on the Tail/Meter/Turn Fuse and the other one on the contacts of the clock fuse. Turn ON your Ignition Switch DO YOU GET CONTINUITY? If not try placing your probe on the other contact for the clock fuse and try again. IF YOU GET NO CONTINUTIY your Ignition Switch or its wiring is faulty.

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8 minutes ago, Grum said:

Is there something wrong with my English? Step 6 mentioned nothing about the relay! 

We are nearing the END........

Step - 7.

Ignition to OFF. Remove BOTH Main Fuses. Remove the Clock/Haz Fuse. Now set your meter to continuity or low ohms or buzzer mode. With one lead on the Tail/Meter/Turn Fuse and the other one on the contacts of the clock fuse. Turn ON your Ignition Switch DO YOU GET CONTINUITY? If not try placing your probe on the other contact for the clock fuse and try again. IF YOU GET NO CONTINUTIY your Ignition Switch or its wiring is faulty.

again not reading properly, just repeated step 6, measure both sides of fuse with ign

on, no voltage, just done step 7, open circuit no continuity

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Sorry I'm getting tired, it's after midnight here. One last test to simply check your Ignition Switch.

Remove the Tail/Meter/Turn Fuse. All other fuses installed.

Place your VOLTMETER probe on the Start/Horn/Stop Fuse. Switch ON Ignition. If you don't read 12v then your Ignition Switch or its wiring is Faulty.

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18 minutes ago, 71Rob said:

again not reading properly, just repeated step 6, measure both sides of fuse with ign

on, no voltage, just done step 7, open circuit no continuity

OK so after all that. And you previously were stating NO voltage at the Main Fuses, this was proved to be incorrect! Bit of a wild goose chase.

You now have an open circuit Ignition Switch OR a break in its wiring. 

Case Dismissed!:wacko:

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46 minutes ago, 71Rob said:

sorry mate, thanks for your help just tested the horn fuse, no voltage, ign switch it is then

At Last!

Yes the Ignition Switch ORRRRRRRRR its wiring. Suggest you check out the wiring Before buying a new switch!

Good Night and good luck Rob!

:wacko:Weirdnesss:wacko:........You Bet!

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Rob

 

Glad you have fault found the issue, now just a case of getting hold of and fitting the replacement part/fixing the wiring. Please update the thread with the final result so we all know what to look out for.

 

Grum, well done for taking the time to step by step walk through the checks needed.

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22 hours ago, CalumL said:

Rob

 

Glad you have fault found the issue, now just a case of getting hold of and fitting the replacement part/fixing the wiring. Please update the thread with the final result so we all know what to look out for.

 

Grum, well done for taking the time to step by step walk through the checks needed.

Thanks, and a HUGE thanks to Grum for walking me through it, as you may have gathered I'm not the best with electrics, as for the replacement its on backorder from Belgium and i won't get it until the 10th of October, so the old one is being taken off my vfr and I'm gonna see if the sparky at work can do anything with it just to get me running until the new one turns up

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1 hour ago, 71Rob said:

Thanks, and a HUGE thanks to Grum for walking me through it, as you may have gathered I'm not the best with electrics, as for the replacement its on backorder from Belgium and i won't get it until the 10th of October, so the old one is being taken off my vfr and I'm gonna see if the sparky at work can do anything with it just to get me running until the new one turns up

Hi Rob.

 

Sounds like you've already removed the switch. Did you run a meter over it.? Have you confirmed it's open circuit? Keen to know.

Hope you're up and running soon, keep us posted.

 

Cheers.:beer:

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3 hours ago, Grum said:

Hi Rob.

 

Sounds like you've already removed the switch. Did you run a meter over it.? Have you confirmed it's open circuit? Keen to know.

Hope you're up and running soon, keep us posted.

 

Cheers.:beer:

no, not removed it yet had to make a lot of space in my garage and then swap things around with my c10 chevy, so i'm not working on it on the side of the road, had to go and collect a works van so i can at least get to work for a bit, been a busy day. hopefully it won't be too much hassle to get the loom out, the switch base is held by 3 screws or bolts (again hoping they aren't shear bolts)

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