Cheburashka Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Are there any other solutions besides the helibars? I like them overall, but they are a bit more than I wanted to spend. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marvelicious Posted September 8, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted September 8, 2019 Convert to conventional bars... There's a topic on here somewhere about how to go about it. I managed to do the initial conversion in an afternoon, though I eventually upgraded to longer throttle cables and hoses to avoid strain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheburashka Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 Thanks! The LSL bars are cheaper and look like a better choice. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marvelicious Posted September 8, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted September 8, 2019 I didn't bother with the LSL kit. It depends how handy you are, but I just drilled the stick triple and used Pro Taper bar clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 10, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2019 On 9/8/2019 at 3:43 PM, Marvelicious said: I didn't bother with the LSL kit. It depends how handy you are, but I just drilled the stick triple and used Pro Taper bar clamps. i have seen failures from pot holes..aka the triple tree is so thin the riser pulled out.. flip your triple.. shape a piece of aluminum to fit into the pockets. install upside down on the bike.. tighten all bolts. have a welder weld the incerts... flip over drill holes and install your bits and ago for a ride :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marvelicious Posted September 10, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2019 "Have a welder" ... Heh... You mean break out my tig torch?' Still, welding may create more stress than it's worth. I'll check the metal for cracks when I change the fork oil next week (had a leak), but that metal really isn't that thin. Still, thanks for the heads up... I'll think about it and see what I come up with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 11, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2019 On 9/9/2019 at 10:27 PM, Marvelicious said: "Have a welder" ... Heh... You mean break out my tig torch?' Still, welding may create more stress than it's worth. I'll check the metal for cracks when I change the fork oil next week (had a leak), but that metal really isn't that thin. Still, thanks for the heads up... I'll think about it and see what I come up with. awesome!! .. tack it in a few spots.. 30 + years of working on bikes i have seen a bunch fail.. it is indeed that thin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marvelicious Posted September 11, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2019 Fair enough... It could be that I've escaped trouble so far because my suspension is pretty well dialed in, but there's no need to press my luck if there is a history of failure. I just wasn't aware of any failures like this on this particular bike. It is cast aluminum which isn't exactly the most resilient material. It strikes me that your plan is essentially to build a big washer for the under side of the triple, but I don't see that doing much to resist force from the top. Thats the direction that the biggest shock would come from and a weld isn't going to change that appreciably. I'm working out of town for the next week, so I've got time to think it over... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted September 11, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2019 All depends on how high you want them to be ? I raised mine 12mm by removing the stock 5th gen clip ons & drilled a 4mm hole into the base of the anti twist locator stud. If you are really keen you can tap the hole & use a longer bolt in it. I just used a 20mm long 4mm socket head bolt. This is just glued in and rests on the clamp bolt when the clip on is in place. A longer bolt will allow a different height. My forks are 10mm higher through the clamps, so this just puts the bars back to the stock position. But crucially retains the anti twist function. To fill the gap below the clip on I used three 38mm O-rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted September 12, 2019 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2019 18 hours ago, Marvelicious said: Fair enough... It could be that I've escaped trouble so far because my suspension is pretty well dialed in, but there's no need to press my luck if there is a history of failure. I just wasn't aware of any failures like this on this particular bike. It is cast aluminum which isn't exactly the most resilient material. It strikes me that your plan is essentially to build a big washer for the under side of the triple, but I don't see that doing much to resist force from the top. Thats the direction that the biggest shock would come from and a weld isn't going to change that appreciably. I'm working out of town for the next week, so I've got time to think it over... think pothole.. rebounds.. and the welding on the bottom around the edge makes a MASSIVE difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
604RC46 Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 https://trickbitzltd.co.uk/product/honda-vfr-vtec-2002-2012-comfort-kit/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STrider Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Intrigued by the Trickbitz Comfort Kit. Anyone know if they'll work with Helibars, or only with the OEM bars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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