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VFR to RC45 "ish" replica budget build


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I just need to clean the metal before I spray the clear on. Right now the metal is rust free with some silicone spray but I'll be cleaning that off, applying some rust dissolver, wiping down with alchohol and baking in the oven to evaporate any hidden liquid and contaminants.

 

As was suggested by dannoxyz, some brand of naval jelly will remove any hidden rust and prep the surface for the "paint" It's a little confusing, they have dissolver and neutralizer. The neutralizer is pretty much a primer that neutralizes the rust so it can be painted but it also contains polymers that I don't trust for high temp application.

So I'll be treating with a dissolver and hope this clear coat sticks and can handle the heat.

 

The reviews on this brand of clear coat are mixed so 50/50 chance it'll hold up when applied to bare metal.

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Well decided to weld the pipes. Let me tell you, I'm not a welder, far from it. Straight material I'm not too bad but tight radius stuff is harder than I expected. Looks like snot so no pics! Seriously, going to clean them up a little but honestly no one will see them anyway. As long as it holds up I'm satisfied.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Still haven't gotten the time to clean up "grind" my welds or leak test them. Should be fairly labor intensive. I stumbled across something on youtube... Turning an RC36 into a "big bang" motor by flipping the rear cams 180 degrees. I know it's not a real big bang considering the it has to do with the 360 degree crank but I'm wondering if it's worth a try. Probably take a few minutes to do just to see.

 

 

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Well, I don't claim to know a whole lot about engine balance but I do know that with 1-3-2-4 firing order that 1&3 are 180 degrees apart and 2&4 the same. But between 3&2 there is 270 degrees and between 4&1 there is 90 degrees. So the rear bank fire close to each other then a longer pause and the front bank fire close to each other, then the rear bank comes up even closer and starts again.

 

For those smarter than myself please correct me...

 

What this does is change 1 from TDC of compression to TDC of exhaust stroke and likewise on 3. What would this mean as far as timing of the combustions?

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4 hours ago, monstar said:

Well, I don't claim to know a whole lot about engine balance but I do know that with 1-3-2-4 firing order that 1&3 are 180 degrees apart and 2&4 the same. But between 3&2 there is 270 degrees and between 4&1 there is 90 degrees. So the rear bank fire close to each other then a longer pause and the front bank fire close to each other, then the rear bank comes up even closer and starts again.

 

For those smarter than myself please correct me...

 

What this does is change 1 from TDC of compression to TDC of exhaust stroke and likewise on 3. What would this mean as far as timing of the combustions?

Sorry if I'm answering my own question but I drew it on a pad of paper and I figured that basically nothing would happen until 1 full revolution of the crank. Then the firing order would be 1-2-3-4, firing every 90 degrees then a full 360 degrees and starts again. I think this guy is probably full of shit. I'm not sure if there is enough inertia to keep it running and how it would run like that. Anyone have any ideas?

 

I would love to see if or how it runs. Someone give it a try!

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Does anyone know of a way to piggy back onto the ecm and be able to adjust ignition timing. I know they did something like this in the day with race bikes but that kinda analog stuff is really hard to track down. Just think there's a little to be had if you could map or just adjust the ignition curve somehow. That's how I stumbled on that youtube video above.

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